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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Apr 21, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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Nah Tork, you're wrong. Stuff never grows back into cracks once you clean them, especially on lowish angle slabs with gullies above and lots of runoff.
Chicken Skinner? Care to comment? I can't imagine doing Haley Anna (which looks SO amazing-can't believe I haven't done it!) and not blasting up the variation afterwards, while you're still there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Jeff,
> I don't know Clint, I remember climbing two routes left of Hayley Anna years ago. One started about 15-20' left.Thrashed through scrub oak to get to the base. The second was about 40-50' left up a right facing corner.
There is a big clean RFC about 20' left of Hayley Anna - is that one of the routes you climbed? (a fair amount of poison oak guards the base of that at the moment). There are certainly more cracks further left. Got any names/ratings/FA info for those climbs? I'll add them to my list of Yosemite climbs that should be going online soon. (Plus, it saves me from the embarassment of having one of my routes "first" in the list!)
Here's a photo, if marking it up would help (you can probably see that Hayley Anna starts just left of the top of the powerline tower):
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/parkln/
> I also did two pitches that continue up from the top right end of Hayley Anna. The first pitch,5.6, continues up and right in a crack that peters out ending at a 2 bolt anchor, right above a large roof. The second pitch,5.9R goes straight up the face passing a few bolts and a few discontinuous cracks ending at 2 bolts on the shoulder of the wall. Been meaning to go back and add bolts to that last pitch but...
Cool - it is a good looking buttress up there above Hayley Anna. Name/rating/FA info? I can always put in a note that it's in progress.
P.S. I agree that dirt returns and vegetation grows back to climbs that are cleaned, especially if they do not get traffic. My "nice try" comment was about Omega's claim that he did the route 2 years ago. In my judgement, it was not cleaned 20 years ago, either. I've been climbing for 35 years and have seen nature reclaim a few climbs. I figured Omega was trolling, so I didn't offer a detailed explanation.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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Bump for some great pictures and some sweet pitches. Just did Flatus to the Rorpe the other day, Great climb.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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Worth a remention here...
The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the reid guide [Edit: I typed roper before] were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.
Also...I think the Flatus start flare w/ a 4-incher is 5.9+!
Fun, sunny route.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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//The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the roper guide were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.//
Melissa, do you mean the top top or the top of the third pitch?
Also it is unclear where the route starts. The green guide says it starts in a shallow right leaning crack? We started in an obvious right facing corner, a little bit wide but mostly hands/big hands. Years ago I started about 15' right. There is an angling crack that leans to the right between both starts.
Have you done the upper pitches?
How big gear wise up there? Anybody.
Jeff
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Apr 28, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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TR Bump! Nice pics, thanks.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 29, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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I'm looking at Meyers and Reid right now which is probably the same as Reid (and mine is ???)...The 7th "W" is the last shown (slab traverse over near Flatus) although the route (per Roper and obviousness) can be topped out if you're inclined to trash down from the top of Reids. (Someday, I'll be hard enough to think that's what I should do in the name of tradition and stuff, but the rap is expeditious and doesn't give you a rash.)
I've done the route to that point several times, but never to the summit. On our last outing, my bf was leading the "last" pitch, and came to the former anchor area, and it was gone, but other bolts were off leftish as you headed towards the summit (as memory serves). Part of the effect of this was that our 1 rope wouldn't get us down shennanigan-free as it had in the past, so I offered up the pleasure of downclimbing to him, and skipped the final pitch on that outing.
J is telling me right now that bolts were also added to the "final" pitch for lead pro in addition to chopping the anchor. I forgot that part. Hard telling why someone thought it was worth their time to change an old route by both adding and taking bolts away?
Stone Groove is the best start, IMO. Flatus 5.9++ fist flare second choice. A real unsung moderate classic, IMO.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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bump for climbing related info on routes I'd love to do/and have done
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 29, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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bump for a good recent tr...
Clint, whatcha doing this weekend?
kev
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2010 - 03:16am PT
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How about some photos of the upper RORP? (with Flatus start)
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/BeyondLunacy.pdf
P.S. Kev, no plans for me this weekend, except working....
Hope to be in the Valley rebolting with Roger very soon, though.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 30, 2010 - 03:27am PT
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Nice clint!
I have wondered what those bolts were heading for from flatus P2.
Thanks for the info, the rorp seems like a fun romp up that stone.
Great pictures!
Mucci
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Take!Take!
Trad climber
Durango Colorado
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Apr 30, 2010 - 08:43am PT
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Very nice. I am old, busted up and can hardly get my body up anything but 5.8 or lower. I love long mild trad climbs. Thanks for posting that. People forget people love the sport of all levels.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 30, 2010 - 10:15am PT
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Clint,
Nice photos! I suspect we know who those bolts belong to...
Don't work to much this weekend.
kev
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Missed the update. Good to see Noriko still getting out there !
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Clint, good call on bypassing that "5.7 chimney" on Flatus. This weekend my lady and I were looking for a nice 5.9ish climb and landed on Flatus, which has been on my radar for a while. We didn't finish the whole thing, but I'll be back better prepared for adventure. Mini-TR with pics coming in the next few days! If you're a bruiser or a bleeder, bring knee-pads and elbow pads.
p.s. Gray Bullet first pitch munge was pretty sketchy looking. I reversed the entry moves before placing gear above the first nasty dry hollow hummock, back-tracking to my belayer 15-20 feet to the left. Clint is the king of understatement in his description of that thing!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Clint-
Thanks for he really great TR, and especially the great photos! Makes me want to get back out on the rock as soon as I can. The RORP looks very cool.
P.S. I hate Poison Oak!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Here's another "bump" for the great job Clint did with this thread!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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As Melissa mentioned on this tread about last pitch of Rorp :
Worth a remention here...
The bolts at the top of the last pitch per the reid guide [Edit: I typed roper before] were chopped/moved. You can no longer rap this route with one rope.
So we did Rorp to Flatus this weekend and I expected that bolts choped for last rap and planned to arrange my own rappel anchor and took some old gears to leave.
It turned out that when last groovy 5.7 crack of Rorp diminishing - there is line of 4-5 bolts going up on knobby face toward Rappel anchor just below the headwall . It is about same place where Magical Mystery Tour ending.
We rappel from there. The strange things is this rappel looks longer that 200 feet to the next closest one which is on top of 5.7ow. Anyway we had only one 80m rope and arrange intermediate station using one of the lead bolt on the route.
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