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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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For a change of pace, here's a recent trip report. My true bumblieness may be quickly revealed.... It was sort of a tour of moderates that I mostly hadn't done before, with a FA thrown in, plus Wei got some practice on following and leading on gear.
Ejesta
p1 has a choice of a 5.8 narrowing hand crack or a 5.7 layback.
Wei is on the hand crack here, but the pro is on the layback, so he ended up doing both.
On p2 I chose the hand crack option.
RORP p1-p2
Wei led p1, a 5.5 chimney to a corner with dead trees.
p2 was supposedly 5.5, but is actually a 5.8 flaring corner with a 4" crack.
[Edit: see Greg's comment - we were off route! The real 5.5 is over to the right - oops. So much for my skills in reading a topo....]
The Gray Bullet
After some initial runout hummock moves, it goes up a clean 5.8 finger to thin hand crack, then some easy knobs.
p2 has a cool (aka exciting) 5.7 traverse.
Parkline Slab
Still smiling on the approach - before the poison oak zone....
Haley Anna
This is the nice finger to hand to fist crack, which goes past the roof.
Unfortunately it has poison oak at the base; we took care that the rope did not get into it.
Up high there is a loose flake in the crack which you can jam next to; then the crack is fist size, but it is low angle,
so you can mostly climb the knobs on either side.
It would be 5.7 ** if it was close to the road, with no poison oak and the loose flake removed. As it stands, 5.8 * is fair enough.
Homeworld
There were a couple of shirtless guys doing a fairly new route over to the right. It think it is probably Homeworld, but I'm not sure.
Vanderbilt-Gledhill (FA)
We did the first ascent of the finger crack just left of Haley Anna.
It is named after a couple of my college friends (Nick Vanderbilt and Francis Gledhill)
who disappeared in a climbing accident on the Wishbone Arete of Mt. Robson in 1984.
It is mostly 5.7, but has a brief 5.10c crux where the crack narrows to tips for about 5 feet, right above a stance.
I led this on my 8.8mm rappel rope, because our lead line got stuck on a flake when we rapped from Haley Anna.
It starts on the first 10' of Haley Anna and then traverses left.
Above the crux is a hand crack and then a 5.9 move out right to the upper thin finger crack.
Wei at the rap station; done for the day.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Hey Clint, the 5.5 on the 2nd pitch of the RORP is a low-angle offwidth around the corner to the right. The 5.8 crack/corner variation that you did is more fun.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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looks like fun climbing away from crowds. thanks for the great pix and tr.
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leinosaur
Trad climber
burns flat, ok
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Apr 17, 2008 - 01:41am PT
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now that's a TR! Nice one. Sorry about your friends, nice tribute.
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way
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Apr 17, 2008 - 03:07am PT
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Clint, Thanks for the fearless posion oak whackin work, so we can have a fun new route and my noob moment captured on photo, :-) priceless!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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Thanks Clint for the Tr.
Looks cool.
Z
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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NIce job thanks forthe post.
Prod.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Nice!
Looks like some fun climbing, thank you for posting...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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Good times!
Looks like some fun stuff.
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SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
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Apr 17, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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Clint
As usual, nice pix!
Silly question--is all of that green at the base of
Halley Anna. . .ed oops. . .poison oak???? Plus, that one picture of your
buddy belaying--it looks like the rope is going
directly through some wacky tebaccy plants, better known
as MJ. . .
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 17, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Nice shoes! I'm on my fifth pair of those green Scarpas. but I change those out, unlike ...that pink rope. Didn't want to get PO on the good one?
Thanks for the mellow routes TR. I suspect KK and I will be all over those in a few weeks.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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SteveW
The rope at the base of the climb is going through Eriodictyon
californicum which is also called Yerba Santa. It's a
California native.
It can be made into a flavorful tea (not universally loved,
however) with decongestant properties.
It's in the family Hydrophyllaceae. Phacelia is another member
of that family, of more widespread familiarity.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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SteveW,
Here's the scoop on the poison oak at the base:
There was also a little poison oak at the base of the RORP.
Rhodo,
I didn't want to get poison oak on either rope. But my lead line was safe during the second climb because it was hung up on the rappel.
"Forced to do a FA to retrieve booty" ? :-)
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Apr 17, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Very nice. A climbing buddy of mine seems to have an unhealthy obsession with that RORP route :)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Apr 18, 2008 - 12:53am PT
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Some handsome cracks in there. Thanks for the TR. I marvel that new routes still go up that easy in the heart of American climbing!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Apr 21, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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Good pics!
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Ω
climber
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Apr 21, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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That is not a new route. That was done years ago and I just did it 2 years ago, stuff grows back fast.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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Omega,
> That is not a new route. That was done years ago and I just did it 2 years ago, stuff grows back fast.
Nice try, but I just cleaned it in 2004, and I left the 10' crux section uncleaned until the day of the FA. No way could the crux section have been done w/o cleaning....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 21, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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I don't know Clint, I remember climbing two routes left of Hayley Anna years ago. One started about 15-20' left.Thrashed through scrub oak to get to the base. The second was about 40-50' left up a right facing corner.
I also did two pitches that continue up from the top right end of Hayley Anna. The first pitch,5.6, continues up and right in a crack that peters out ending at a 2 bolt anchor, right above a large roof. The second pitch,5.9R goes straight up the face passing a few bolts and a few discontinuous cracks ending at 2 bolts on the shoulder of the wall. Been meaning to go back and add bolts to that last pitch but...
Thanks to all your posts and your wealth of info on routes and climbing in general.
Jeff
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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Been too long since I've fingered a splitter Yosemite crack. Nice report. I could also smell the bay bushes.
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