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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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I never knew Tobin, never saw him, but as a young kid I heard stories of Tobin from members of a college church group I used to hang out with. I was 14 years old in 79, my dad had introduced me to climbing with trips to Williamson Rock and Mt. Pacifico starting at age 11 using an old goldline rope that tied about as easy as tying a bowline with winch cable. The church I belonged to and still do had a very active college group who had several members that climbed. After a few sorties out to Stoney Point they immediately discovered that I could actually climb pretty good. We struck up a deal, they would let me come on trips to Yosemite, Suicide and Josh if I would lead the stuff deemed too hard for them. Deal. I can remember trips to the Valley in an old VW bus that had rust holes in the front end as well as the back creating a wind tunnel effect and extreme windchill temps, we huddled in mummy bags and smoked Swisher Sweets to stay warm. Climbing in the valley was otherworldly and overwhelming. It was during one of these trips to the valley that one members of our group talked about going to school with Tobin and climbing with him during a school outing, I dont remember the school, I think it was Biola or Azusa or some other christian college but regardless the stories made quite an impact on me. When I returned home I remember buying copies of Mountain or Ascent and reading more stories of his climbs.
A few years later I was still the designated ropgun but we had started heading out in smaller groups and doing more committed climbs like Clyde Minarette. During one of these trips I was picked up at home to head off to Valley, the guy who picked me up had a long look on his face and explained that Tobin had died in a climbing accident. For a young cocky kid who fely invincible this was a sucker punch even though I had never met him.
Why is it that you can have such a visceral response for someone you have never met? In recent months I have had the same response when Dash and Copp were reported missing. Tobin had an infectious smile and seemed like a genuine person who was approachable, even from the pages of a magazine or stories around the campfire. I felt the same about Dash and Copp, that the climbing world had lost genuine caring souls.
The few sections in The Stone Masters that were dedicated to Tobin brought back wonderful memories of my early climbing experiences at Josh and Suicide in the late to early eighties.
Thanks John and Dean for opening the floodgates those early memories, tying into a swami, the smell of new Chouinard Canyons and the sound of #11 hexes clanging from shoulder sling. Along with the sour memories came a thousand more good ones.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
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Amen
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Tobin was really special. Although a devout Christian and extremely pretty actually, Tobin was an awfully good climber, had a great body for climbing and could pull like nobody's business. He was also quite canny, perhaps even shrewd in certain ways. Quite a surprising bunch of talents!
I remember when he and his little brother Tim did the FFA of Cobra on the Royal Arches. Vandiver and I spent some evenings in the Lounge with those two; maybe there was bad weather. Vandiver usually subtly got the upper hand in conversations back then if the subject was climbing; Chris was competitive and awfully skilled. But Newcomer Tobin had him at cross-purposes pretty quickly and obviously was enjoying it as well. A very cool character with dimensions that were not generally suspected by others.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
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Tobin had a far wider impact than the climbing community. There must have been several hundred at his funeral and only a small coterie of climbers standing in the back.
I was never a Stonemaster, more like stoneduffer, still am, but I did have the privilege of tieing in with the crazy kid from down the street for a season or so in the pre-stonemaster days.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=161148&msg=161672#msg161672
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 18, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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hey there say, batrock... thanks for sharing this very meaningful note from your feelings... say, i have only heard of tobin, from here...
everything i've read and heard here has been a good and proper legecy to this special climber... thanks for this share, as well... all the little puzzle pieces of the full art of rockclimbing, all seem to come together so well and kindly at supertopo....
thanks again.... :)
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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I knew Tobin, he was a 'Stonemaster'!!And if you were able to distinguish that a 'biner' was a colloquialism for carabiner and not a slur, then you new who all the Stonemasters were. And I was fortunate enough to frequent the Tahquitz/Suicide area from @'71'-'74'during their 'Blitz' of that place, and the 'Valley' for a few years later. I recall one afternoon he and Largo entered the 'Mountain People's Shop' asking if anyone had any spare bolts that they could lend them. They were all out and needed one more to finish a new route that he was leading at Suicide. I can still picture Tobin as that characteristic smile lit up his face when I offered him the only bolt I had, and as far as I can remember, I ever owned, a 3/8" that I imagine is still firmly planted on 'In Harms Way'??, or some similar climb at Suicide. It was an honor of course. Now when I think of Tobin, the bible verse "And now abide faith, hope, love, these three; but the greatest of these is love" 1 Corinthians 13:13, comes to mind. That's because love is what would best characterise Tobin. After he became a Christian, his hearts desire was to share this love of Christ that was burning in him, with his fellow Stonemasters and climbers. Tobin was the real thing. He lived it. He never forced his beliefs on anyone, he didn't have to. I remember the last night I spoke with him, the night after Tobin and his brother climbed the 'Cobra' on the Arches wall. He was attending bible college at the time and was making these long foray's on the weekend up to the Valley from L.A. to climb and be with his friends. Quite remarkable when you think about it, right off the couch, 5.11+ FFA of an ominous looking overhanging corner in a godforsaken place, high above the Valley floor. Must have taken allot of 'faith'...the dude had it. By the way, as Tobin fully understood, faith enables us to come to God, but love enables us to imitate Him...the dude had both. And of course he also had hope that he would share eternity in heaven with those he loved here on earth.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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Tripl7,
Thanks for further insight. The greatest of these is indeed love.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:01am PT
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1st corinthians 13?......
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:21am PT
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Jaybro!! Allrighht dude!! Keep me on my toes!! 'A man after my own heart' as Someone once said...hey! I guess I am going to have to actually start practicing what I am preach'n and open up the Book to make sure of these things. It's 1 Corinthians 13:13 / not 1 Corinthians 13:11. Thankyou.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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Enjoyed the story that emerged from Tobin's ascent of the Shield behind Trevor Jones and myself (even if it was a bit embellished).
I last heard from Trevor a few years ago and recently emailed him about the book, offering to get him a copy since his hammering of the rope into the crack was pivotal to the tale.
Haven't heard back, so if there are any Calgary climbers who know him please give a shout.
Trevor is a good fellow and would likely enjoy it.
Sadly, although we shared some of the same haunts, I never had the privilege of knowing Tobin, but his deeds were legend, a light that shone briefly but brilliantly.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:12am PT
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Piton Ron: "embellished" ? Are you sure? Sorry you didn't meet Tobin- I know he would have loved knowing you. Cheers from Oregon, Bruce
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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Ho man! Called out immediately!
Hi Bruce.
To be clear; Trev hammered that rope into the crack pretty hard, and at a spot where it was possible to get a lot of A1 nuts in. So I have little doubt that Tobin could have set up a solid belay after arriving at that spot although the book makes it sound as if he swung in to the lip of the roof to belay.
Either way the part of the story that I doubted was about how easily the old rope popped out after he did so, but I have no problem with such an "embellishment" as it only serves to underline the insanity of jugging mystery ropes rather than mis-portray the actual event.
Only you know, but if it really did pop out like that then I think you more than "saw god". I think you heard, smelled and felt it too!
Sort of like; "It was true even if it didn't happen" kind of thing.
LOL
cheers Bruce, no malice intended.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Thanks for the reply Ron--I know you have no malice in soul for me--we're too much alike! Honestly, there is no hyperbole there. When I weighted the fixed line ever so slightly, it blew dramatically. I just know you are kindly trying to get it out that I am guilty of understatement!
Sorry if I did not spell-out the belay clearly in the story. Tobin stopped prior to the point where Trevor hammered in the knot, it seems to me, about fifty feet. Even at the time, I wasn't sure why he did so.
One day I hope we can toast and brag, and may God have mercy on any spectators! -B
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 11:09am PT
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Well the pitch after the roof is overhanging as well, so just swinging into the belay was a feat.
You didn't even give it a little flick and it popped?
Wow!
I often marvel at how many close calls I've seen. Its the kind of food for thought that can cause mental indigestion!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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I paused for a late breakfast. Cragman and Stitch, Tobin's earthly body was recovered, tangled in rope, at the base of the North Face of Mt. Alberta. He was attempting to solo the Lowe-Glidden, route. He was composing a letter to his fiance, during the climb, which revealed he was above the ice and also that he had become off route, and also that he was very frightened.
I hear you loud and clear Ron, about the close calls- Life really is stranger than fiction, and I think it is often a big writing challenge in climbing accounts to bring credibility to the facts. With Tobin Sorenson, it really is not necessary to exaggerate! But life is a miracle, and we are all, miracles, and from what I can tell, especially you!
your friend, Bruce
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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Oh, I meant to say...
Tobin's belay was situated about twenty feet above the roof. It was not necessary for him to "swing in, (and jam a pinky)" and set up an anchor which really would be, a ludicrous proposition. Rather, the fixed rope passed through (not tied) a biner at that point, it seems to me, about twenty feet above the lip. The fixed line, perceived as a white rope by the time we arrived had faded so much, I was aghast when I realized from the book photo, it had once been multi-colored. No matter how hard it was hammered into the crack, entropy, as always, must have prevailed. Had Tobin Jumared on it another literal second, well...
Hey everybody --if there is any way, buy this momentous book which contains great writing and priceless photos which I can only hope to have supplemented by my own contribution. There are many hidden accounts of Tobin that are fantastic, such as in the Valhalla tales.
You will never regret it!
In respect to Tobin, I knew him well enough to say he belongs to each and all of us, because he was infinitely happy to be "one of us." And Thank You, once again, Dean Fidelman, John Long and Mike Graham, all three amazing individuals, for setting the flame.
-Bruce Adams
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Just an OT word.
The taco is a valuable network.
Thanks to the person who updated me on Trevor's difficulties.
Hopefully he's on the mend.
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Double D
climber
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Oct 19, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Tobin was one of the coolest climbers BITD. Always took time to talk to us pups, encourage us and share Jesus with us (talk about lost souls!).
I was deeply saddend when I hear of his death. He did so many bad ass climbs and was such a nice guy.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Well,.. they make great water skiers,..
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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Mr. Cragman, If I may respectfully interrupt, I doubt if Peter 'H-a-a-n' would commit such an error as you suggest.
Rather, isn't it true that his Christian identity, recklessness, charm and luck, tend to be the dominating perception in regards to Tobin and, very often, eclipse a just awareness of his splendid athleticism and skills? As climbers who know the ruthlessness of our avocation, and for those of us who call Christ our Lord, isn't it proper to point out Sorenson's impressive commitment to excellence and in his own words, "radical commitment?" I found Peter's words to be very gracious, and strongly appreciated his inclusion of Tobin's surviving brother, Tim. Sorry Peter, if I have put words in your mouth, out of turn.
Let us take the high road, and ease up on the polemics. Thanks, Bruce
Ron, I'll tell you some Sorenson surfing stories some day--not exactly walking on water!
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