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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Saturday was my 43rd birthday, and to celebrate I went with my friend Laura over to Mammoth to do Crystal Crag. In The Good, the Great, and the Awesome Peter Croft writes the following about the North Arete (II, 5.7) -
"If you and your partner have been getting that teary eyed - trembly chin look when actually faced with other peaks then this may well be the climb for you."
This has pretty well summed up my Sierra alpine rock season so far :)
It was a bit blustery and chilly so we didn't get an alpine start -
Views were pretty nice even from the base -
We wandered around the base looking for the right-facing corner in Croft's book. I also had a copy of the summitpost route page, but didn't print out the pictures, so I managed to misidentify the 5.8 North Face and up I went -
Wow, is this thing really 5.7 ? Why does it seem so hard ? I guess those old-school ratings are really stiff ! Turns out there is a picture in Mammoth Area Rock Climbs that shows the North Face and North Arete in relation to each other .. didn't notice that until later.
It was a fun pitch, though chilly. Homemade ankle warmers in full effect -
We joined the north arete on the second pitch (which was easy) and then headed up the third pitch, which had the fantastic eponymous crystal -
Once at the false summit we relaxed a bit and took in the views -
I put my approach shoes back on for the ridge scramble to the true summit. We downclimbed to the notch and simulclimbed most of the rest.
The final knife edge was exposed and fun -- I should have placed more pro on that one simply to protect Laura better .. it was her first knife edge traverse and wow did she have fun !
The true summit was exposed and bouldery, a little like Bear Creek Spire -
We found a nice spot nearby and Laura broke out a surprise - a bottle of sparkling cider !
And of course the headgear came out -- note the ceremonial headdress worn by the high priests of Llamatarianism :)
The third class west face had a nice downclimb -
We only saw one other party all day - a soloist. He was moving pretty good :)
There was a short talus field on the descent, but nothing really huge. Back to Crystal Lake and then a short trot down the trail to Lake George, but not before a fond farewell -
It was a longer day than I expected, but very good. Am I officially old now ?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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hah! nice hats!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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That looks like fun!!!
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ninjah
Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
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great job! and too bad I didn't see those funny hats, when i passed you guys at the false summit, It was a bit windy up there that day! great TR thanks for shareing, The fast moveing soloist.
by the way the TC pros rock! the best shoe ever ! worth every penny!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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Thanks all !
Nice to know the TC's worked well on CC. I picked up a pair in July and have been breaking them in, mostly by crack climbing. They worked really well for that in Tuolumne .. I guess in the fall we'll see how they do in the Valley.
I had high hopes for the JB's, but I think the katana last is a better & more precise fit for my foot shape.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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The hats! I'm inspired! Not sure that anything I've got can rival those, might have to dig deep at some point for a novel outfit.
Nice job guys, looks like it was a great day.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Cool exposure!!!
Thanks for the pics!
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Beautiful pics, thanks!
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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How in the world are we supposed to compete with those hats?
Nice job again you two.
Laura - Sparkling cider? What happened to the good stuff?
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MH2
climber
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Ooooh, crystal brightness and sunshine. Beautiful. And those hats make a statement. It sounds like, "I'm having fun."
edit: Is that white rock feldspar?
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Gene
climber
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The high priests of Llamatarianism asks Am I officially old now ?
Photographic evidence indicates Not Even Close.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Hahaha, thanks all !
Sunday the plan was to dayhike Clyde Minaret's Rock Route (class 4). It was a really scenic approach via Agnew Meadow and Lake Ediza.
I'd guessed that this late in the season there wouldn't be significant snow, and that any remaining was probably suncupped & easy, so I didn't bring an ice axe & crampons.
We made our way up to 11000' and looked at the snowfield ..
my approach shoes & sharp rock weren't really going to cut the mustard, so we decide to turn around, and headed back down via Minaret Lake and Devil's Postpile.
Wow, that SE Face (IV, 5.8) looked really beautiful ..
It was a long day of hiking & light scrambling in a gorgeous area. We took in the sights and then took the shuttle back to the car.
Monday we wanted to do something relaxed, so we went to Clark Canyon and did some easy sport climbing at Area 13. Well .. us and about 30 of our closest friends :)
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MooseTracks
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Brave, Brave Sir Robin:
Thanks for including me in your birthday celebration! What a Sierra sampler: multi-pitch trad, long day hike (we WILL bag that one), and sport climbing all wrapped up with a llama bow!
I can haz llama and moose?
BTW: Where did you post that pic of me on the crystal? I want/need for profile pic...
Sweet Barbarian Scott:
Robbie don partake in the elixir of the gods, so I went for the next best thing: sparkling cider! The point was to carry a bottle of SOMETHING to the summit for a few extra style points that I burned while whimpering my way across the knife edge. BONUS: it was still cold due to the whipping wind!
Another great weekend of pushing limits and having fun. It only seems to be getting better!
-L
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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I think the Llama/Moose combination is a sure fire winner.
They SURELY do fine TR's.
Thank you.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Bumpity.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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is there a finer spot than the eastside??? call me bias but...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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The south arete looks even better .
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MooseTracks
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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(drooling over SE face...)
I'm just a little biased about the eastside at this point, although I grew up camping the westside. Whenever I need some shade you'll be sure to find me over 'dere...
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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I can understand not bringing the good stuff if the Llama does not imbibe. That's totally cool. I was afraid I was gonna have to send you a care package.
I wouldn't worry about style points...you have plenty of those.
I think your recent day hike into Rae Lakes Basin gives you some class points as well!
Keep on keepin' on!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Ms. Moosie has style, class and smartypants points to spare ! :)
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