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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 5, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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Pete Haan and Tony Brake suggested that I dig out some of my old photos of Matt and Bruce Pollock. Unfortunately I found very few climbing related ones of them, but I did dig up some of Haan (lots), Luke Freeman, Galen Rowell, Ben Borson and others. All dates are estimates. I took all the photos except for the last one of me that Luke Freeman took.
Here is the link to the original web page, but there is nothing there that's not below:
The photos
2014_10_31 : edit and repost
It was time to add the photos and text in the actual post: Also a reminder for Peter's Nov 4 talk
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2518929/RIM-Club-Nov-4-Peter-Haan-Art-and-Climbing
begin_page_transcription{
I've uptated this to include the comments from the responses.
Peter Haan and Galen Rowell '71, Indian Rock. I gave Galen a copy of this about 2 years before he passed away.
Peter Haan Soda Springs Tuolumne, '70.
Matt Pollock North Dome. Note the Cortinas. '69. We did this with Luke.
This was one of my first digitizations, and it is pretty crappy. I just found the originals from this trip(!) and will redo them, maybe part of a Pollock thread
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
This was the first time Peter climbed it. I recall him being unconcerned about the offwidth but
pretty nervous about the the finger crack at the bottom. Note the tiny rack and that he didn't even have a swami belt with leg loops.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Luke Freeman '69 or '70.
(Photoshopped by Haan)
Luke Freeman '69 or '70.
Kim Schmitz, Marty and Peter '70.
Herb Swedlund '70(?)
Ben Borson and ...?(Lyda?), Indian Rock '71.
Ben Borson top of Water Course, Indian Rock '71.
Peter with Amy and Mike in the background Indian Rock '71.
Amy and Mike, Indian Rock '71.
Me, Indian Rock '68 or '69.
(photo Luke Freeman, Photoshopped by Haan)
}end_page_transcription
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks for that bunch of images! Most of these I have never seen! What a great shot of Herb Swedlund. Great image. We have talked about Herbie here in recent years by the way if you want to search it.
The second to the last image is Amy Loughman, her then-husband Mike Loughman, and I am pretty sure, Chris Vandiver. Amy later partnered with Steve Moyles for many years. She was a dancer who got completely involved in Flamenco in recent decades. Steve is known as Scuffy b here. And she kind of became famous as the cover girl on one of the first arty books on how to climb, I think by here husband, Mike. And I think it called The Art of Climbing. No one seems to know where he might be, although probably in so. Cal. He would be in his seventies I think and was geologist.
Here is that image of you climbing out front above the water fountain and stairs. I rehab'ed it to the extent I could considering some of it was missing.
And here is the Luke Freeman portrait, a great one btw, Dar.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Thanks for the photos! They sure bring the times rushing back.
Good action shot of you.
And Peter, certainly looking studly and sporting a generous smile.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very cool shots of a moment of punctuated equilibium, Darwin. Thanks!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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great photos. thanks for posting them. galen looks like he should have considered a size up on those pants...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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very nice images
thanks for posting them
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing. Amy became a semi-regular at the Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz a couple years ago, but I have not seen her lately. She was indeed usually accompanied by scuffy b.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Bump! I worked for Cal last summer teaching their rockclimbing classes up there. It is a pretty cool/historical place.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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David,
Yeah right, Galen. If you think these are tight in Darwin’s photo, you missed his stretch Levi’s and supertight t-shirt period. That was before and shortly after you were born. That went on for about 8 years. Levi's never meant them to be leotards.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there darwin, say, course, i dont know the folks here, but any back-in-day photos are always fun...
i also very much like the old black and white film photos, they had nice patterns to them, that are not seen in the newer color types...
thanks for sharing with all the folks here...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Great Photos!
Love the shot of Schmitz, next to the Haanster. Peter you were so young and naive looking circa 70. Two incredibly powerful climbers of that era.
Mike Loughman took Galen on his very first Valley climb, the Leaning Tower Traverse, way, way back before Galen had discovered Indian Rock and bouldering. Someday I'll write up a story of Galen's first adventure at Indian and his first Valley climbs.
Mike was a big part of the Cal Climbing Club, a very talented climber, superb at bouldering and a mentor to many beginners in Berkeley at the time.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I know, Guid. I can't believe that is me, but it is. I look tiny but at that point I weighed 185-190, so I don't know. Schmitz and I climbed for a few months back in I guess 70. We did Vendetta, Left Side of the Slack, NE Butt. HCR, Cookie cliff routes, went up on West Face of Sentinel, and some climbs on the base of El Cap. We had a lot of fun for awhile. The girl he is with is the young champion speed skier, Marty Martin (sp). Craig Calonica (Captain Chaos) knows her exact last name. She was a gas and really pretty too. They lived in Kim's VW bus for awhile together.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Those are great photos Thanks! Used to boulder a lot with Amy and Mike, and I had no idea that Scuffy B was Steve Moyles! Now it makes sense that they refer to him as "mister smooth" I learned a lot about precision footwork hanging out with him at those boulders.
Got to catch up with Luke Freeman a few times in the past 10 years, my awesome co-parent Lynda B. is still in touch with him, and his job as an executive with some sort of gaming machine company (?) brings him passing through now and then.
Peter
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Check your email, Peter
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sew,
I believe Loughman as well. Royal has never been very good at remembering climbs and details of ascents. It has been going on forever. He like the broad picture and the minutiae are just power drains for him. And he soloed tons for decades. He was good at it too. Sometimes he would really put the pressure on and downclimb as well.
Mike didn't want to be the Dr of Indian Rock of course but was just there a whole lot and used it socially too. Very friendly guy, for sure. And opposite from RR, remembered tons of trivia. As I said I think he was a geologist.
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WBraun
climber
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Darwin
You sound familiar. Very Familiar.
Luke and me did Nose and Salathe walls together.
Yep, Peter that's how you looked back then.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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Peter; thanks for the touch-ups of the two photos. I knew it could be done, but I'm not that good with PhotoShop. Do you mind if I just replace the originals with them in when I next re-edit the posting (although it will make the thread a little confusing).
Amy, right! I met her in the late '80s through a non-climbing friend. I have some more photos of Vandiver at the Rock(I think).
I communicate with Luke occasionally but don't know if he ever reads Supertopo. He lives in Australia and still climbs. I think he was a bit wigged out about that accident in Australia several months ago where bolts pulled and two experienced climbers lost their lives.
Darwin
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dar,
No, replace the originals with the retouched ones, no problem with the thread and posters. And since it is your page it is even easier than with a hosting site like photobucket. There you can edit and replace too, of course.
Werner, you knew Darwin. He and I did a bunch of climbing together bitd.
Here he has a bandaid on his nose. This has to be 71, in the Meadows just before the Hourglass left.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Werner,
I was there in the Fall of 70 climbing mostly with Peter, and then I think '72 with Matt and Bruce Pollock. Luke, Matt and I were all in Berkeley High together. I hurt my shoulder in '72 on a new-route attempt on something to the right of Vendetta with Porter and Matt. I pretty much dropped out of serious climbing after that, although I've been climbing a little more over the last 15 years or so. I met you back in the day, and then again when Matt passed through the Valley a year or two before he died. We ran into you between the Lodge and Camp 4.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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I remember Amy and Luke.They were both in the Gunks one Fall.They were both great climbers.A little remote.I did some climbing with Luke.But can't remember what or where or when.If his friends never nicknamed him Cool Hand Luke it was probably because it was too obvious.
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