Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Nat
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
|
I have been using Yates adj daisys for years. The pros are their strength. Cons are that they fuzz after a few walls and then slip. They can also be a pain to lengthen w/ one hand.
I am considering the Metolius version. They seem much easier to extend with one hand and offer affordable replacement webbing. Any feedback from personal use?
Thank you!
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
|
I only used them for one wall, so no expert with them.
However, you'll find that they also slip. And, actually, they slip a lot worse than the Yates. You can extend the Yates when weighted. Metolius are also weaker than the Yates. I've witnessed a Metolius adj. aider break.
|
|
the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
|
I love my Yates. I tried a metolius once and didn't like it. You can lengthen the Yates with weight on it by just pushing the cam, I don't think you can with metolius.
|
|
PhotogEC
climber
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
|
In my (admittedly limited) experience with the Metolius, I found that, to extend them when weighted, I had to do a little "bounce" move to un-weight them enough to release. Fine when clipped to a bolt, but not something I'd want to have to do on hooks.
My Yates just arrived on Friday....
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
|
After you wear out the first webbing on the Yates it is worth taking 10-15 minutes to smooth over the burrs on the body of the buckle. I got a lot more life out of my second piece of webbing after using a needle file and sand paper to get the nastiest burrs off.
Also, you can greatly affect the life of the webbing and buckle by minimizing how much you pop the buckle under load.Holding the free end under tension when you hit the release, and holding the release wide open keeps from dragging the webbing across the teeth under load, entending the life of both.
Still, I want to see what Kate has come up with (did she ever post pics?). Perhaps a new option needs to get invented?
|
|
Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
|
I have a set of Metolius adjustable daisies. Use them mostly for photography (They are cool for that.) and old-style daisies (BD, Fish or Metolius) for climbing.
Curious about the Petzl QuickFix. It's not very strong, and you can't release it under load, but it looks as though the distance between the girth hitch loop and the carabiner end would be shorter than most others when fully tightened, which for me would be a good thing.
Easy Daisy pros and cons.
Pros:
Smooth buckle action
Compact (low-bulk)
Lightweight
Clean profile in use (which is why I like them for photography, an attribute which probably all adjustables share)
Cons (for me, when aid climbing):
Too short
Too stretchy
Not as strong as I would prefer
|
|
piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
|
Metolius - 300 lbs.
Yates - 1500 lbs
Enough said.
I'm surprised anyone even considers using a daisy that only tests to 300lbs.
|
|
Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
|
No expert but I found with my Metolius ones that they slip slowly with my full weight and that on one of them the upper part of the buckle dosn't align with the lower part (20 - 30 degrees off) any more.
I have ordered replacements but real aid climbing gear in the UK is hard to get
good luck
Rob
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
|
All those new fangled adjustable jobs will slip, fuzz out and break at somewhat low loads. It's the nature of the beast. Plan on using one new one per wall, and then either replace the webbing, or get a new one. By a couple of walls, the teeth on the cam are probably gassed too and even new webbing will not keep the webbing creep from shrinking your nutsac. They are cheap.... use fresh ones whenever you can.
OMG!!!!! Here is one now!!!!11116666!!!! http://tinyurl.com/mzhkb5
Don't believe the numbers either. 300lbs is not what it will break at... zero chance.
|
|
piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
|
Russ,
What is the working load limit for the FISH adjustable daisies?
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
|
WLL.... that is a good one for funny numbers. We rate ours at bodyweight + rack for WLL, when the unit is new... once you use it all bets are off ;)
Breaking strength is off the top of my head something like 2300lbs? Not sure... I'll go look it up if you really want to know.
|
|
xtrmecat
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
|
I have only used and worn out two sets of Mets. I do love em, but they have their limitations, as with anything. They do not like frost/frozen webbing in the morning. Dirt/sand acts the same as ice, but was good for sphincter exercise one AM. Infinitely adjustable and can get that just right adjustment to reach out high-high-high and still get that pulled into the wall thing going. Even better now that I learned how to Tee Off via Ron's and Jeff's video.
This was something I never got just right with my old daisies. I have never used Russ's or Yates. I probably will when the next set comes due. Another question, why would someone need a daisy to hold over body weight, as in XX00 lbs?
Seems like a waste of material and unnecesary load should a daisy fall occur.
I still see no reason to dislike my Metolious units, just do not see me not trying something new next time. Also the easy daisy was very easy to handle in the dark, one handed, in mid cluster, learn how to rethread the buckle(oops once), and extend one handed easily. I have modified both sets via a German's recomendations, and not been sorry except for the impromptu rethread needed.
My two cents have a lot less mileage than many here, so what ever you think it is worth.
Bob
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
|
I prefer Metolius simply because it take two hands to loosen a Yates.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
|
Yates Hands down. Strength counts and releasing when weighted is a big deal.
Haven't seen the Fish rigs but always appreciate supporting the Bro
Peace
Karl
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
|
"...and releasing when weighted is a big deal."
Yeah I love it when the Yates start releasing on their own when weighted. Makes El Cap so much more exiting.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
|
The Metolius do the same thing... And my experience with them was that they didn't start slipping, they started letting go! As in suddenly you were at the end of the daisy, which = dangerous, as it was basically creating a daisy fall.
Maybe they've changed since then? This was 8 or 9 years ago.
|
|
the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
|
It's easy to lengthen a Yates with one hand, but then you need to shift your grip to clip the biner in.
With the Metolius is takes a little more force to pull the webbing thru, but your hand is always holding the biner in the ready to clip position.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
|
Ummm... Yeah. Why would it take two hand to lengthen a Yates?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!