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Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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I initially posted this in the "Recommendations for Easy Leads in North Lake Tahoe", but it was bound for burried-dom.
Anyway, I had been out of climbing for about 9 years and recently got back into it (and very excited about it!). After months of top-ropping at Castle, simul leading, and re-building a rack, I was ready to get back into multi-pitch.
Ended up having a great day Saturday at School House Rock.
We got up to the base of School House Rock around 8:15. There was one party starting the first pitch of Junior High Crack and no one on Kindergarden Cracks. After looking from below, Kindergarden Crack didn't look too interesting (although I am sure it is fun), so we waited for Junior High Crack. Only had to wait about 1/2 hour because the guys in front of us were pretty fast.
Another group came while we were waiting and climbed Mary's Crack.
Junior High was a really fun climb and a good first multi-pitch for my partner. Communication with rope tugs was easy, and the belay ledges were nice and comfy. Solid pro the entire way up. Felt good to be back leading.
Here are some pics I figured I would share:
School House Rock with the route highlighted with the 3 pitches:
Leading the first pitch:
First belay ledge anchor (figured why not go 4 pieces??? ;) )
Couple shots from the second pitch:
Second belay anchor:
Chilling on the second ledge:
Top anchor:
Partner topping out:
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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I am posting to contrast several phrases from your post with the thread's title. Among other things your post said:
"and very excited about it"
"I was ready to get back into multi-pitch."
"Ended up having a great day Saturday at School House Rock."
"Junior High was a really fun climb and a good first multi-pitch for my partner."
"Felt good to be back leading."
May I gently point out that none of these phrases match the bit in the thread title about the report being "super lame." Climbing is for fun. If you're being safe and respecting other people and the rock, there is nothing "lame" in any way or form. And, in my sometimes humble opinion, that's one of the beauties of this site: some big names post here, but I can't recall ever seeing a putdown based on how hard someone does or doesn't climb. Normally it is just the opposite.
Sounds like you did have a great day. Well done.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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You know for only living 30 minutes down the road from that climb I can't believe I haven't done it yet. I'll put it on the to do list immediately it looks great.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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more climbing content ++
mtnyoung, actually there are putdowns on climbing ability, but mostly they are in jest, or are implied by dipshits that think their own sh#t doesn't stink. they learn eventually tho. still it's pretty rare and I never hear it from old skoolers.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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Looks like a fun one!
Cheers!
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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You think this is a super-lame report, that just means you
haven't been around.
No, I don't mean to put you down. I realize you're just taking
a preemptive strike on yourself, because Someone Out There won't
be impressed.
Hopefully, you know that you're just gently teasing yourself.
This is quite an enjoyable read, plus it has lots of pictures.
That first anchor, though...you might be hearing from Donini
that it's a sure sign of the apocalypse...j/k
Thanks!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
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Well done!
Thanks for taking me up.
I need to get out climbing more.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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Any trip that results in actual climbing (rather than just talking about it) is pretty cool by me. Thanks for the post.
BTW, what's the deal with the odd handle?
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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great shot of the tree! Spent a lot of time at that tree over the years...
Thanks for the TR!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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good times!
Looks like fun!!!!
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Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Thanks all - it was a good climb and recommended if you are looking for a nice cruiser multi-pitch. The "super lame" was more in self-jest than anything.
To the handle, its from a very classic SNL skit from the 90s with Phil Hartman.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 27, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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Hey hey... there...say....
Good job!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 27, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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UCL, Way to Go!
Looks super fun!
Keep the MAGIC Alive!!
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Jul 27, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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most trip reports are not lame. Trip reports mean you actually did something other than rant about religion or politics. I would like to see more tr no matter how lame you feel the climb is because someone out there could benefit from the beta......just my 1/2 cent....btw good job
Josh out!
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 27, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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I'd say that when I hear anything about the Donner Pass area
the chances are 9 out of 10 that it will be about Snowhed Wall.
Eight out of 100 will be about the Black Wall.
One point eight out of 100 will be about Star Wall.
I think I've left less than 1 in 500 chance that I will hear
anything about Schoolhouse Rock.
Three pitch climb with good rock within sight of the road, with
a short approach...
Thanks again.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 27, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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Hey Unfrozen Man,
I think this was the first route I did at Donner. It was the first year I started climbing. I remember it was cool. I seem to recall there was some "interesting" climbing on P1 when you turn upwards after the traverse. Thanks for the TR.
Zander
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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What's the rating? Lots of great TR's this week!!!
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada, CA
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Jul 27, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
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Thanks for the TR! I hope to do some more of the climbs that were suggested in your original post>
Erik
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Jul 27, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
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Donner is where I learned to climb, still love that place.
Scuffy b said "That first anchor, though...you might be hearing from Donini "
That's funny too.
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Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Zander -
Yeah there are a couple of fun moves on P1 after you turn vertical - just a nice crack climb.
P2 is actually the best pitch. From the belay, there are really three options: go around the flake to the left, take a long approch around the right, or go straight up the crack. We went straight up as this is the recommended route and definitely the best climbing on the route. Fun, sustained steep crack climbing.
Iron Mtn - I think it is a 5.6. Really only parts of P1 and P2 are 5.6, everything else I would say is a little lower. P3 is predominately slab climbing.
The Route ends litterally at the summit, which is pretty cool. I believe there are some bolts up top further to the right that you can set a TR from and lower down to some nice .10 climbing.
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