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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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Spent the weekend with Frank Baker and Bill McConachie at Castle Crags State Park. Did Cosmic Wall on Mt Hubris (5.6) on Saturday. This route, which rivals SE Buttress of Cathedral Pk in my opinion, is well worth the 2.5 hr approach. We did it in 5 pitches. P2 thru P5 were high quality, reasonably well-protected, face and dihedral climbing ending in a knife-edge arete to a spectacular summit.
Cosmic wall goes up just left of the two right slanting roofs near the lower right.
Looking up at P2. Face climbing on steep foliated granite.
Photo courtesy Frank Baker.
Frank Baker following P2 with Bill McConachie below.
Bill McConachie & I on the Summit arete
Photo Courtesy Frank Baker.
On Sunday we did Six-Toe crack (5.8)
Photo courtesy Bill McConachie
Frank finishing P2.
Photo courtesy Bill McConachie
Me following the delicate traverse on P2 of Six Toe Crack...Still boggles my mind that Bill McConachie led this and he has no toes.
Photo Courtesy Bill McConachie
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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May 18, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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very cool TR!! that looks pretty spectacular.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 18, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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awesome!
more pix.
adn we want the full tr of debaucherie w. likker and lokal meth in low-budget motel room w. plastic farm animals, hookers, etc.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 12:58am PT
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Went to Dunsmuir, practically a ghost town, on Sat night to check out the local action...none detected. Ate pasta at the Pizza Parlor and got the runs. Did not encounter any farm animals but we did see a rattle snake on the trail.
Seems Dunsmuir has never recovered from the early 1990s train derailment, toxic chemical spill that killed fish for 40 miles in the Sacto River.
Here are some more pics...
Mt Shasta from the summit of Mt Hubris
Castle Dome from Mt Hubris
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 19, 2009 - 01:32am PT
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kewl
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 19, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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YUM!
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sbecker
Sport climber
Meff-ferr, Oregon
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May 19, 2009 - 03:01am PT
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"Went to Dunsmuir, practically a ghost town, on Sat night to check out the local action...none detected."
Blue Turtle Seduction played in Dunsmuir on Saturday night. They're always fun to see. That's prolly the most hoppin' I've seen the place... not that I spend much time there.
Glad you had fun at the crags... the place is sweet. I took a lap up Cosmic on Sunday afternoon with some friends. That's one I'll do again and again.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 19, 2009 - 04:43am PT
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Hello from Ashland! Hope you enjoyed our neighboring crag!!
Truly a couple of awesome days of rock climbing up there.
Next time you are up at Six Toe check out the Grotto right behind it. Some cool, hard and runout mixed sport routes back there. And in the shade all day.
I see you avoided the squeeze. Good call!
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Chris2
Trad climber
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May 19, 2009 - 09:44am PT
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"Moderate" but extremely run out. Great camping, few people. Good time of the year to go, as there is water nearby the camping location. Pack EVERYTHING out.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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the two routes we did required some creative gear placement but I wouldn't say they were 'run out'...in fact, I sewed up the pitches I lead...don't know about any of the other routes
sbecker: we did see a band setting up in a bar near the pizza place.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 19, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Oh yeah ! I need to get back up there. Good job !
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Thanks Lambone...yes Bill McConachie opted to go right avoid the off-width but the traverse back left into the crack was exciting
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Awesome pics! Cosmic Wall is one of my top 5 moderate picks.
Hella good time.
lars
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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May 19, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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very nice, thanks
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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This crag does not exist. These photos were doctored.
Just kidding. This place is bitchin'. Cosmic is the best moderate I've ever done... without a doubt. Backcountry skiing, park skiing, ski mountaineering, craggin', bouldering, paddling, fly fishing. Population 4000.
This place sucks.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 19, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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Excellent!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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May 19, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Man, way to go!
Looks sweet!
Thor
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:13am PT
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Hey Lambone: what about routes on Castle Dome? Are there any updates to the 1990s vintage Falcon guide?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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May 20, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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Hey, does Bill have a brother named Bob up there in Hangtown?
That store up there at the Crags has the best tasting, rarest, coolest, bottled micro beer selection in the state, please tell me you picked up a few cases while you were up there?
beautiful approach hiking, ehh?
any plastic on the river?
did you like the freights, or did you not like the freights?
can you hear them on the summit?
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
concord, california
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Dr Sprock: the train whistles were appealing for some strange reason that I can't explain even though they kept waking me up at night. You can hear them on the summit of Mt Hubris. Bill McConachie does have a brother named Bob but I don't think he lives in Hangtown.
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