NorthEast arete of Checkered Demon (aka peak 13,112)

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GDavis

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 15, 2009 - 01:43am PT

so.... whats the deal??? I've never been able to find any info in this besides the couloirs. One of the most striking aretes I've ever seen!

GDavis

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 02:56pm PT

bump...

Rankin

climber

Bishop, CA

Apr 15, 2009 - 02:57pm PT

Definitely an amazing feature. Also curious...but don't have any info either...

Gene

climber

Apr 15, 2009 - 03:00pm PT

No info for you, but I've always thought that Checkered Demon is such a great name for that peak.

10b4me

Ice climber

Rustys Saloon

Apr 15, 2009 - 03:01pm PT

yes, looks like a nice line

salad

climber

Escondido

Apr 15, 2009 - 04:40pm PT

gd isnt that what we were gawkin at descending humphreys?

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Apr 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT

WOW!~! Crazy looking rocks

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Apr 15, 2009 - 05:08pm PT

Bump for cool peak with mystery arete.
Born and raised in the Sierras and always wondered if is goes.....or has went.....or....done gone....you know what I mean.

herm

Trad climber

Bishop

Apr 15, 2009 - 07:22pm PT

The descent from Humphries is about as close as I have been to it, and it does look climbable and rather unique. The actual arete isn't terribly steep, but it winders around some cavernous looking overhanging stuff. I also suspect that some of the rock is very soft and funky, maybe marble or some OOP carbonate remnant. I don't think that particular swath is granitic. It would be interesting if someone would go up and give it a lick.

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Apr 15, 2009 - 07:53pm PT

Norman Clyde prolly climbed it. In Winter. 5.8. In klettershues.

rwedgee

Ice climber

canyon country,CA

Apr 15, 2009 - 07:54pm PT

Which one of the couloirs is "Checkered Demon"?

GDavis

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 08:27pm PT

left is kindergarten, right is (i believe) the checkered demon cuolior.

YES JEFF! The very one! The one that looked so scary! haha.

Probably is chossy. Probably is. Still... looks sexxier than a beer on sunday.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 15, 2009 - 08:37pm PT

Fantastic name.
Fairly revealing pictures.
Funky proposition as rock climb no doubt.

Sometime ago, I asked Walter Rosenthal about the Checkered Demon couloir as an ice route.

He said:
"I generally have no interest in ice climbing things I would ski..."

OoohKay.
I went back to hucking scraps of drywall into the bin or whatever we were doing...

jbar

Social climber

urasymptote

Apr 15, 2009 - 08:52pm PT

The long, dirty couloir in the pic above is CD. There is a smaller one just to it's left called Kindergarten chute.

Haven't seen any route beta for the arete. SP Parker would probably know for sure.

dmalloy

Trad climber

eastside

Apr 15, 2009 - 10:36pm PT

I have about as much info as the rest of y'all, but I will second The Chief's slightly more informed opinion....that rock looks like it would be nasty, dangerous stuff to climb on.

rhyang

climber

SJC

Apr 16, 2009 - 12:32am PT

I've only climbed the left couloir (aka Kindergarten) and looked at the right one (the Checkered Demon proper) in September 2005. Here's the 'schrund of the right couloir -

Looks appealing, no ? :)

Kindergarten was about 40-ish degrees, neve and blue ice. I seem to remember the rock on the sides looking kinda nasty. One of my partners on this little romp looked down the Checkered Demon couloir from the summit (I didn't bother) and said it looked pretty much like so much horribly loose junk.

Still, said partner set up a belay at the very top of the Kindergarten using a nut and a couple cams in something that looked reasonably solid (we were simulclimbing by then).