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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
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Any one have any pics or stories about this classic?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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There's some footage of Kate and Madeleine climbing it in the extras footage on one of those recent films.
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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No pics, but a fantastic story. I agreed to go and try Separate with a guy on the Camp 4 board. He said he had tried that and Tales many times and he was close on both. He had never been on Tales. I ended up battling up the chimney cursing the universe for thinking I could climb valley 12b, then hang dogged up the steep .75-1 crack to the top sweaty angry, then had to explain the fine art of French free to my unknown partner who could barely hear me beneath the overhang. Needless to say, I kleimheisted my way to the street and hitched back to camp.
On a side note, I went to the creek and got on Coyne's Crack, Way Rambo, and several other similar sized cracks and after this current storm I want to head back into the valley and finish it. Amazing line, but VERY physical especially with man hands.
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nvrws
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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There was a video several years back called Yosemite Climber.. a swiss guy made the movie and showed it in yosemite for a year or so... Herman Wing from mexico climbs tales and johnny woodward(i think) does separate with a no hands rest over the lip as I recall.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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I have good photos of Max and me on it. My brother took them on rappel. I'll scan some in and post them later on.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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I got the onsight of this fab line (tales) in 1985 with Mike Lechinski and Mari took pics. I will dig out those shots soon and post.
It helps to have skinny hands as i did @ the time and also helps to weigh 120 which i no longer do!!
KS
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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thanks folks!
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Double D
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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When Bill Price, Augie Klein and I went to work on Tales I just gave up. That size just didn't work for me. Bill was one of the most talented crack climbers I've ever seen and had a very early ascent:
Bill Price on Tales of Power
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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Didn't Bill reach down to grab a pin and have it pull out in his hands?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Doug McDonald was fixated on this thing BITD.... he probably went up there with Tarbuster, Werner, etc.... what I remember most was perhaps the biggest gobie I had ever seen on the back of his hand after one session. It was the size of a manhole cover.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Mark I don't remember him pulling out a pin but I didn't go with him on his 1st attempt so it may have happened then. In fact I don't remember any fixed pro. Placing the hexes was quite a feat in itself as I recall.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Sparking long dead brain cells...
I remember seeing a slide show at UCSC of Hudon and Jones on TP.
Mark, please scan and post them up, they were good images...
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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placing hexes on that rig now would make it 5.13 for sure!
love to see some sport trads giving that a go with the clank clank of the hexes..
felt every bit of solid 5.12 in 85 with rigid friends...
ks
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CF
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
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Some photos of Sue McDevitt firing it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Okay, here ya go.
Max and I did the second ascent in the fall of 1977. About a day or two before we did the fifth ascent of Astroman.
Getting into the Pea Pod was a bitch.
We worked on the route for a couple of days. Right above that blue sling was a pin. I thought it was yet another pin above that one that Bill had reached down to grab and pulled out.
I think right here there is a little jog in the crack that allowed me to get almost a real tight hand jamb. I'm sure I placed that nut from there.
Just before it widens out to that bit of off width. Notice the runout, two inch waist band, one inch webbing leg loops and the dual chalk bags.
Looking up at Max on the route.
Max ripped right out of the crack after this picture was taken.
And Hexes, Baby, yeah, hexes! I did it again years later with cams and it was almost cruel how easy getting pro was.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Good footage in the extra scences of The Sharp End
I like this climb due to the fact you can take some what large whippers and not get hurt. Link it with Seprerate reality to get the full value of the area.
Seperate reality is WAY easier IMO. It just gets a little to thin(or to wide) in the upper mid section for me.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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EB's and hexes, that's cheating .....
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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dang man, mark and max you guys sucked!
but the twin chalk bag thing was kinda homo...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 23, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
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The size suited me, first time was the charm! What reason would I ever have for dragging this 52+ yr old carcus (almost rhymes with circus) back there? OH yeah, it's fun, elegent and ever so cool!!!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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great pics. I went down to the base once but never completed the dang thing. it was perfect for my hands. How much harder than short circuit folks? two full grades?
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