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Peewee
Trad climber
Quebec
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 25, 2005 - 09:20am PT
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Any body has beta for me on Hang Dog Flyer and on 10.96?
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Mar 25, 2005 - 09:50am PT
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10.96 == left side in. Tight fists in back. Crux is exiting the crack and attaining a lieback position.
I think on both climbs, not getting disoriented can be a bit of a problem.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 25, 2005 - 10:42am PT
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I did 10.96 right side in. Tunneled up, placing a high peice inside. Then grab the lip in a postion similar to the photo of Phil gleason, then swing around into a lieback.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 25, 2005 - 12:33pm PT
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I only did 1096 once, on the first ascent, left side in thrash, then reach over your head for the lip and swing into a short lyback to the ledge.
Hang Dng Flyer is a double overhanging lyback that is very dificult to protect, but back then we had to wiggle in hexes, and used a spotter on the ground to say where because it's hard to look into the crack with your feet jacked up so high. There's a bouldery move at the top--go dynamic. Strenuous, but not too long. Mid 5.12.
JL
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weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
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Mar 25, 2005 - 12:39pm PT
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1096 - Right side in, place gear as high as possible before esqueezing out to the layback
Hang Dog Flyer - Strenuous but not as hard as it looks. Placing gear down low is the crux, but there's a heal hook on a small ledge for your left foot that you can milk, which really helps. (Rumor has it you can stem the lower part instead of layback it to bring it down to 12a, but I can't verify this) Gain small ledge near the top to de-pump and wangle in some wires. Thin boulder problem and throw for the horn. All time!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 25, 2005 - 01:11pm PT
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Hang dog flyer is a short one pitch climb. All I can tell you about hang dog flyer is it’s hard. It makes you hurt. There’s a thin boulder move right at the end that will bite you if you’re tired. It got me, I fell there. I failed on that climb.
For those of you who want some interesting history about hang dog flyer here goes.
I went there with Kauk to watch him do the second ascent. When out of the woods came Ray Jardine who as you know, did the first ascent. He tells Ron he’ll never do it without friends. Now at this time in history there are none. Ray is the only person that has them since he’s the inventor and they haven’t been manufactured yet. As I recall we’ve never even seen them yet.
We go over and check these things out that would later revolutionize the state of protection in climbing. Ray tells Ron that he can use the ones he brought. Ron politely declines with the understanding that since no one else has them that he’ll continue to use what’s available to everyone else, “Hexes”. Ray’s now kind of disappointed and tells Ron you’ll never do it with hexes. Just the words Ron wanted to hear at that moment. Ron is now determined to prove Ray wrong.
Ron goes on to lead the second ascent of hang dog flyer with hexes.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 25, 2005 - 02:57pm PT
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Beautiful story, Werner. Have you ever considered being a Largo? -- Nevermind. It's cool just sitting here around the campfire here listening to your tales.
Hangdog -- Couldn't say. Looked steep. Way above my head.
10.96 though -- The squeeze isn't too bad. 5.9 or so, left or right, it's all good. Exit for me was extremely painful hands/fists. If I ever look at it again I'll wimp out and use spider mitts, thus aiding it.
Have fun. A good climb.
Brutus
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James
Gym climber
City by the Bay
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Mar 27, 2005 - 08:42pm PT
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Hangdog flyer will make you either feel like a hangdog (me) or like a flyer cool crux boulder problem near the end the route has a few real good rests though
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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bump for cool stories and beta
Just did 1096 today...got seriously spanked, but the climb seemed like fun! Is there any consensous on beta for how to climb this thing?
I cant wait to go back....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I say right side in, everyone else seems to thik left side in.
You gotta find
Your
Side in!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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werner - great story. i can just imagine ron declining, summoning the spirit of the rock, and not the gadgets, for the send. great. we need more of these stories.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Perhaps PhilG will chip in?
Jean-Pierre, did you ever do either route?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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So was the climb named after your attempt then Werner? ;)
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Double D
climber
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Anything in Robbins boots would be horendous...as seen on Phil Gleason's face.
Werner...classic story. I was just thinking today about how many generations of Yosemite climber's that you've hung with and the feats done during your lifetime. It would make a great "campfire" book.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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on 1096, go the opposite way that Phil is attempting it....
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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I'd like to see a Hex that would fit 1096?
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Werner- I heard almost the exact same story BITD about the Cringe with Bachar and Friends. ? ! True ?
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Gobee- there is a fat fixed hex 1/3 of the way up it right now. go up there and check it out!
anyone have that gleason photo?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dang! I've done the Cringe twice with hexes. Doing it with cams would be fun!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Roy leading 1096
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!