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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2008 - 01:47am PT
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notch peak
and yeah, just about blew a gasket.
such a huge pile!
so much desert choss!
luckily I found something close to home recently.
can't wait to get back out there.
the choss scares you at first, the it starts to intrigue you.
The possibilities, the sheer 'that's f*#king crazy' factor.
Post yer choss please!! Come on, give it up!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2008 - 01:52am PT
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for completeness of cross posting...
Think BIG choss
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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You want big choss? Here's 2500 feet of it! (5.11-X, go get the 2nd ascent!)
My partner 21 pitches into the cruddy, fractal gneiss:
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Hey Munge, fellow choss-man:
The thing about crappy-rock adventures is this: there are trips that you never fully come back from.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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No sudden moves.
Even weight distribution.
3 holds at all times.
Never look down.
Ever see a chunk of sandstone cut loose for no good reason?
I have not, but a guy at work has, does that count?
Stay out of El Cañón de Diablo, ya here?
People go in there, and they don't come out.
Those Hoo Doo Night Stalkers are even worse.
And don't forget Big Ray, I fed him some Kibbles and Bits last week.
He is probably hungry by now.
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dolomite_said
Boulder climber
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Can you link to a higher rez file of that first phote ? Looks sick .
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WBraun
climber
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Good stuff Mr. E
Routes like those above require excellent climbing skills.
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L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
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"The thing about crappy-rock adventures is this: there are trips that you never fully come back from."
That is a great quote, Erik.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Choss is good for you.
Choss builds character.
And always remember, as long as you have good choss, you ALWAYS have something to drop on an uncooperative belayer.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there mungeclimber.... wow, great rock! ... i know, i know, not for climbing... :)
say, great pics you guys....
you know, such a cool, neat looking rock, just begging to be climbed, and what do you know-----as you call it: choss rock...
say, i would highly think, too, (as werner said? if i remember this post correctly) that this would be requireing good climbing skills...
course----i have a question:
would it be an odd test, though, meaning a complex one?
1--first, i mean, you can have great skills, but wouldnt you have to have some skill, too, as to the choss rock, so that you can work such skills into tackling another such choss rock (if you truly deem it safe enough to do so)?
2--and also, would it be better, if one did tackly this unstable stuff, if they were more familiar with THIS than with other type of rock (or would all kinds of rock-skill-variation come in handy for these "monsters of sort"?
i was just wondering is all... it sure is, though, a test for a climber.... (i reckon some climbers enjoy trying to work it out, and some may not---depends on what kind of an adventure that one is one, or seeking for that day, right??
thanks for more shares on this.... as... i love looking at these rocks... and through all you guys i have learned how unstable and tricky and at times, how undesireable they are...
god bless to all, as you tackle any climb... these or not... and thanks for shareing you insight, and pictures
**say, ps:
do you find any more bird nest, snakes, lizzards, spiders, or odd variety of critters on these rocks, as compared to others??
edit for dirt: ... wow, yep, i could see that it'd build character, too... (out with any "disgruntles" and in with the "determination-factor")...
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Neebee: deem it safe to do so? It is a giving up of sorts...a reckless willingness to give yourself to the elements, based on a synergy of experience, creativity, delicacy and dedication to upward movement in the face of horrifying rock quality.
As my partner Mike Layton said: A falling upwards
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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We pounded pins into layers of "rock".....dirt came out of cracks 6 feet away.....(Long Dong Silver, near Hanksville, Utah...)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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"Hanging curtains of mud." Sundevil Chimney, Fishers.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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"Pitons shifting out of cracks like candles melting in the hot sun." 12" galvinized Home Depot nails hammered into dirt for rap anchors. Pope, Round Rock, Ariz.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Yeah, Boyee! Now we gots some sugar!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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" You could plant a garden on the summit ." Chinle, Spire, Round Rock, Ariz.
A pitch and a half of holes drilled, with pitons, hardware store junk, and unknown pieces of " metal stuff" pounded in the holes.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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We used an ice climbing warthog pounded in dirt as part of the summit anchor. The Pickle, Arches.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Rap anchors that consisted of 2 star driven aluminium bolts, drilled by Layton Kor, 50 years ago, in soft sandstone...Rap from 3 feet tall "tree" on summit...Spyder Rock, Chinle, Ariz.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Summit Ridge was gargoyles of mud. Greig Arch, Cove, New Mex.
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