ElCap Report 5/20/08

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elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 20, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
Ok computer rodents... it is time again for the bridge rat to report on the happenings as seen from the most famous structure in all of the universe...
Nice day today.. a little warm still... weather reports indicate that it will be 76 or 93 tomorrow... wish they would get together sometime and find the real deal. Nice at the bridge with a lot of monkeys and some hiking tourons passing by. So settle down varmits, kick the dog out of your chair, tell the old lady to stuff a sock in it.. tie in and hold on... brought to you today on the back deck of the road stripe painter that worked on the bridge deck today...
Todays ElCap report.

Zodiac: The team of three was finishing the mark of zorro pitch when I arrived and seemed to be smooth and efficient... a French team I hear.. smooth and efficient?? Anyway they should make peanut ledge tonight.
Steve's ropes still hanging from 6.

Lost in America: The Belgian team continues to knock off the pitches in a calm, controlled manner. About half way up now.

Trip: The team of two in the nice red shirts crossed the slab on 7 and were entering the corner when I departed around 4.

NA Wall: Seems as though I have missed the guys on the lower part of the route... is that possible? Yes!! Anyway I caught them on the traverse to the black dihedral.. they are moving smoothly... a team of two.
Lower down a 5 person mixed team is hauling junk to the route and kindly left 4 days of food in a bag at the base as a dinner present for old #46. She was thrilled and ate it all!! Don't we know not to do that?

PO Wall: The team moved off the Island in the sky and was moving to the highbrow bivy when I left... they are way up there and only have thoughts of the top I imagine!

New Dawn: Well, guys, this is going to hurt, but.... the team Holly and Lorna are rolling up the pitches in great style and by my humble estimation are the best moving team on the rock at this time. In case you don't know what that means... these Chicks are kicking the butts of all the other teams on the rock... women... yes women... the best on the rock... Oh my god....
Lower down the orange shirted solo is moving right along and arrived at ECT late in the day... not sure just where he is going from there but we will soon see.

Nose: What a mess up there. Saw a team climb to the top of the boot today so I got ready to shoot the swing when they bailed from there... what was that? Anyway they came down through other teams going upward to replace them. They were last seen on Dolt tower and are a French team I hear. Plus I think they swept up a hitch hiker bailer along the way too.. something you don't see very often. The guy came out of a party of three that were going up at the time... got me!
There were a few teams higher too passing the great roof in the afternoon and out of sight above camp 5. There were three of these teams moving right along in their own little train of teams.
Lower down a team of three with 4200 pounds of baggage were spotted at the top of Sickle ledge in the morning and were last seen two pitches into the Legs and will stretch it to make dolt but not to worry as they have a full contingent of PLs with them. I hear they are an anchor testing unit from the American Alpine Club try to stress all the anchors to the fullest on the route. Look out below.
The Kentucky climbing team gave up the ghost today and bailed from Sickle. Reports had them trying to bail at the 15 foot level of the first pitch but a quick cell phone call to the groups illustrious leader, who was hauling water to be base, was greeted with horror at the prospect and the minions were ordered onward to the end of the pitch as no one in recorded history had ever bailed from such a low level on the route.
As a result the leader himself, a trusted member of my personal posse, took charge and dragged the others, crying for mommy, up to Sickle where it is generally agreed that bailing from is acceptable. Oh the humanity!!
Others on the route low... who knows?....

Salathe: Did see some guys climb to the ear and above, vanishing in the afternoon shadows of the Alcove.
Lower down the team of John and Ron, two Brits who have been hanging at the bridge and helping us out around here, were seen going above Hollow flake in the afternoon sun... they were struggling with the bags in the heat and are going to have a rough time making it past the ear today... god save the Queen!
Behind the Brits are several teams in the early staging phase and we will soon see who steps it out to the Hollow flake pendulum in the morning.

Out West: I didn't get out there and my spies were shaded up here at the bridge so I don't know... but my red sunburned face should be enough to warn you Westsiders that it is not nice over there and you can expect debilitating temps for the forseeable future... water up and go light on the dark clothing. Take a cell phone too...

In other news. The road will be ready Friday at noon for all traffic, or so says my mole, Eric, in the construction company. This weekend should be a horror show however as all the papers are touting a visit to the Valley to see the falls now rather than later as the snow pack is not great and the temps up there are high. Lots of Bridge rats hanging around today watching the action on the Big Stone... yeah.. mostly watching the females kicking butt!! Summer time is about here and the temps are here early, so plan on mucho H2O and cool clothing. Rumor has it that the dreaded PTPP is about to appear from the temporal either at any moment... brace yourself for the spray! Also Ottawa Doug will be here soon too. He is an older solo climber who is the current record holder for oldest solo of the Cap. He is a really nice guy and we look forward to his return to the Bridge. Double E was around today and has something up his sleeve.
Lastly I want to ask you Newbees to give it a rest on the Cap. Pay your dues on some grade 5's and then come on up to the big Daddy... it will make your success more assured and your suffering minimal... really... I'm serious.
So that's the way it is on this the 20th of May 2008 in the Valley of the Yosemite.
I'm out of here.... TME
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 20, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
Prolly good advice about honing your skillz somewhere else.
yo

climber
I drink your milkshake!
May 20, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
The noobs spent all winter clogging Touchstone, they're ready!
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
May 20, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
only the first three pitches, yo

i mean, if you've done that, you've pretty much done the route.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
May 20, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
Thanks Tom.
Better put #46 on slimfast for the rest of the season.
bigz

Social climber
wisconsin
May 20, 2008 - 10:53pm PT
I'm reading the reports with interest. One of the "red shirt guys" on Trip is my son. His first time up El Cap although he and his climbing buddy did Washington Column last year at this time. If all goes well they'll finish on his birthday. We're looking forward to some great pics when we come out to Seattle over the Fourth.
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
Bigz... your boy is getting it done in good style and looks strong and having a good time... he probably calls you on his phone no doubt... congrats on raising him... no ez task in this world!!!
CF

climber
May 20, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
Here is Gigapan photo of the Nose area from today so if you know somebody up there you can check them out.
El Cap Gigapan

And this is not even the large file.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
May 21, 2008 - 12:22am PT
That is really cool....
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
May 21, 2008 - 12:24am PT
Enjoyed this real thread, thanks for the post.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
May 21, 2008 - 12:39am PT
Thanks El-Cap Pics.

Damb... I'm missing all the action. It sucks needing to have a job! ARGH!!

Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
May 21, 2008 - 01:12am PT
Is their an estimate as to the total number of climbers that have topped out from Day 1?
Is their a log at the top?
So you do not have to file a flight plan, just walk up to the rock and climb?
Thanks, great pic, wonder if Kinkos could handle a file that big, cool to blow it up to wall size, in color of course.
brat

climber
El Portal
May 21, 2008 - 01:41am PT
Hope you enjoyed your lunch Tom.
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
May 21, 2008 - 02:21am PT
Go Team San Diego: Ian and Scotty!
Thats probably them above the great roof.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 21, 2008 - 04:07am PT
These hi rez photos are most unfair. You can spot a new line from the comfort of your armchair. BITD we had to sit out in the meadow getting scorched by the sun with nothing but a lawn chair, telescope, and beers.

Ooops, I guess all those lines have been climbed by now anyway. My bad.



summerprophet

Mountain climber
Cali Via Canada
May 21, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
Well Tom,

Hopefully I will be appearing in your lens quite soon. Boarding my flight for the valley in an hour.

I miss the pics you had posted up in previous years Tom, but appreciate the narrative anyways.

Keep your eyes open for a team of three on the Nose. I will be in bright yellow just for you.

Seriously, all of us trapped at a desk more often than not love to see your write ups.

Like everyone else here, I owe you a beer.

Justin
(and Humberto and Paul)
NinjaChimp

climber
someplace in-between
May 21, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
I have some Aussie friends that were going to climb South Seas beginning last Thursday (or so). Any idea if that is the part on PO? They are prone to lounging and drinking vodka so their pace on the upper pitches sounds appropriate. Too lazy to bike down there myself for a look.

-Justin
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
Yep... those guys on PO are the south seas guys
alik

Big Wall climber
edmonton
May 21, 2008 - 11:10pm PT
Hey Tom.
Thanks for the report, always pleasant to read... unfortunately its definitely making me quite jealous as well as making my decision to go to collage in the fall seem more and more ridiculous.
Peace
Hannah
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2008 - 01:00am PT
Go to college.. you can climb anytime...
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