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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2008 - 08:18am PT
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I remember when I first met Eric when he came to the Valley around 1986. Now back then, boulderers generally didn't get the same respect as people firing up Astroman in a day or guys climbing El Cap a dozen times a year, but Eric, with his incredible stories (in that southern drawl) and his prowess on the rock, made him welcome in every campfire in the park.
One of the most amazing things I ever saw was Eric climbing up the tree in the parking lot, with nothing but fragile flakes of bark for hand and footholds. Every move was like climbing both 5.12 and A5 at the same time.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 22, 2008 - 08:32am PT
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Good one John, always liked that guy, classic southern live-wire. Wonder what he is up to now? Still cranking, or maybe holed up in some backwoods 'holler' selling moonshine to middle schoolers.
Peter
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 22, 2008 - 10:50am PT
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"All I know for sure, is that I am part of all this," the ever humble philosopher Zschiesche. Damn what a good climber! He could get up 5.12 in his Hushpuppies and then sit and seriously discuss their performance aspects.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jan 22, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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I remember hanging with Eric, Gary Slate and their friend from NC back during that wet spring in 82/3. We were hanging out in the Awahanee during one of the many storms that rolled thru that spring amd looking for anything that would fend off the boredom due to the rain. Well, we were all on tickets and trolling thru the giftshop, sort of looking and feelin electric, when Eric, who was chewing a rather sizeable plug. He grabed a cut glass goblet out of one of the display cases and spit his plug into it. He looked around, gave it that sheepish Zschiesche look and placed it back on the shelf. It was quite the humorous moment.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 22, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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I think he has a "corridor" here...:
Local folk were a tad itchy there...
Rumor has him somewhere's in Utar?
-Brian in SLC
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prunes
climber
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Jan 22, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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I remember along time ago staying on rescue and on a rainy day we all took tickets except for Eric. Thank god no one neede help that day. Eric was living at Devils Lake Wi for about 10 years and a few years ago he moved to Salt Lake. He is still climbing as strong as ever. Listening to his stories about sodomy done south is just to funny.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
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Nowadays I hear people say "Holy Moley" fairly often. I am certain it was Eric who brought the term back into vogue.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 22, 2008 - 04:59pm PT
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Glad to hear he's not selling moonshine!
Anybody have a scan of his 'Ethics Police' cartoon form an old Mt Lemon(?) guide?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 22, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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Last time I saw him was in the Valley, musta been late 80's/early 90's. ...Or mid 90's. (Or maybe post 9/11, but not last week).
He'd not been climbing much (none), maybe bouldering some (if any), but decided to tick Astroman right off the sofa.
That dude has an insightful-whimsical style for sure.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 22, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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Eric and I one day went to the left of the base of the Zodiac to try and do the first ascent of the route called blank out.
Ice was falling off from high up on the Captain and we were getting pummeled. We failed that day vowing to return in a day or so.
The next day Croft unknown to him we were there the day before does the FA ascent. Hahaha
Eric is one awesome cool dude.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 22, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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i ran into eric during one of my slide shows and he was doing well. doing his art and living on a farm i think and still climbing. He looked the same as ever, skinny and strong...
he invented the grunge look 10 years before it hit seattle bands...
KS
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 22, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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I used to always hang with Eric when he came to the Tree. He always had the coolest attitude and boy could he crank! Even in those Hush Puppies of his...
By the way...That's some artwork there Eric, if you're out there...
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jan 22, 2008 - 08:16pm PT
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Hueco, maybe '96 or '97. The day before I had run into some mates from Wisconsin, Scott and Angel, and, Santa Cruz being my hometown, gave Scott a hug. From his reaction I realized this may not be typical MALE cheesehead behavior.
Seeing Angel again at the Dragon's Den I asked, "So, do guys not hug in Wisconsin?"
"Uh. . .well, Scott--" she was starting to say, when this super-skinny guy with huge glasses, white-plaid bermuda shorts and lank brown hair charges up to me and grips me in a bear hug.
"Hey brutha! Good to meet you!" He shouts with a Southern drawl.
That was how I first met Eric.
From his website:
with Jeff G.
on S. Six Shooter:
Class human being, hilarious, an inspirational climber, driver of sedans you'd typically associate with your grandmother, a last name you couldn't spell at gunpoint, but mostly just all-around great guy to hang out with.
Verm does justice to Eric's vibrant personality, gold-grade character and southern story-telling humor in Stone Crusade. Highly recommended reading.
Cheers Eric, always wishing you the best.
-Jeremy
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Jan 22, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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In the spring of 1982 Todd Bibler and Catherine Freer were at the last belay of Zenyatta Mondatta on the second ascent. They were sitting on their portaledge, under a waterfall, shivering. Eric Zschiesche showed up on top of the climb and poked his head to see where the climbers where. Todd Bibler yelled: Throw us a rope! Zschiesche disappeared from view. A while later, the waterfall stopped pouring on the stranded climbers and Zschiesche poked his head again and explained: I diverted the stream.
The climbers topped out soon after.
As told to me by Todd Bibler.
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Jan 22, 2008 - 10:03pm PT
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Eric lives in Utar now...funny ass bastard that he is. Draws the best damn Pasmead I ever dun seen, among other great artwork. And that laugh...unmistakeable.
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 22, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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One of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. Can't wait to see him again. Here's a comical shot of Eric from a very early Phoenix Bouldering Contest. Lycra was so out there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 22, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Here ya go Jaybro! From John Steiger's groundbreaking 1985 guidebook. Eric drew it for this daring gentleman.
One of his many talents.......
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 22, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
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Thanks Steve, that's the one I meant!
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Jan 23, 2008 - 06:40am PT
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I never met Eric, but he was a legend amongst Climbers in the South back in the early 80s. Somewhere I have a zerox copy of a drawing he made of the Wonder Wall at Jamestown, AL. I'll post it when I find it. It really was our first reference. It was a nice topo and and for me it was an inspiration to get out of the house and go climbing.
I climbed quite a lot in Alabama 82-86. Eric had done a short crack at Jamestown that was something of a test piece for us. Only by word of mouth did we know he did. Rob Robinson told me about it: "Zschiesche did that crack-it's hard." We called it 5.12a but that was a sand bag.
Jamestown was closed for nearly 20 years. But The Southern Climber's Coalition worked out access recently. Here is the description from The Dixie Cragger's Atlas that was published by Chris Watford in 2005:
"WHITE LIGHTNING 12a/b
FA Eric Zschiesche and Tim Mcmillan, 1983 [I am pretty sure it was earlier]
Originally worked on by Shannon Stegg, this line begins near the right edge of the steep wall of the dihedral. A shallow crack and corner system leads to a beautiful crack-too wide for fingers, too narrow for hands. Horrendously hard."
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