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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2007 - 10:52am PT
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Welcome aboard Dave,
You got a lotta wacky old friends hangin' in the rigging here I'm sure.
This place is a blast: post up lotsa pictures and watch out for trolls.
We did just one route together, Hermaphrodite Flake & The Eunuch, sorry if the post-climb picture isn't properly macho, but it's what I have, so I'm runnin' what I brung. I'm sure someone will scan the stretchy Separate Reality pic from Yosemite Climber...
Mayfield was hoping this shot by Don Harder would go away after the last 7 times it showed up; I'd guess mostly because he's sour about the blue coulottes which you scored.
Cheers,
Roy
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captain chaos
climber
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Nov 30, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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Now I remember why we avoided picking up babes at the bars in the valley... the girls had hair on their legs and looked like guys... good shot Tarman- Dieg your looking pretty sweet there and Peter, was this before you lost your virginity?
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 30, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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Diegelman, where the hell have you been dude? We've been waiting patiently for you to show up? How's yer lead head? I'm sure it is strong (as always).
Just got off the phone with Yerian (speaking of memories etc.)
Remember what we did before rapping off the top of Moratorium? Boy we sure did feel that in the meadow for a few interesting hours, ha?
S.L.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Nov 30, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Nov 30, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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welcome dave...
great post tarbuster! yosemite climber is the bible of my generation, sad to see that most climbers of today have no clue about yosemite in the 60's, 70's and 80's...
post some cool pics to fuel the memories!
KS
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 30, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
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Welcome Dave! So many fond memories of our friendship way back then, and it was wonderful to spend time with you at Grandstaffs memorial. Hope all is great with you and your family.
Yup, the short blue dress was way better for climbing.
Craig, not by a long shot. This oft posted photo was only taken a week before I moved into your trailer and you tried to school me in the arts of rapid-cycling serial monogamy!
Love to all you bros,
Peter
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Nov 30, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
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I suppose I'm guilty to some extent of hero-worhip, but one of the cool things about this forum is that quite a few of the guys that really inspired me as a beginner seem to lurk in these parts. The Stonemasters are the most obvious, but I've always wondered about some of the more enigmatic figures. For example, I've climbed a fair amount in S. Arizona and always wondered about Steve Grossman. I've never been bold enough to climb most of his routes down there, but his legacy always inspired me to push myself more at places such as the Stronghold than I might otherwise have done.
Who can forget the above picture of Dave Diegelman on Seperate Reality. To a beginning climber in the early 80's, that picture simply blew me away. "Rockclimbers do THAT???" I don't know if I'll ever climb Seperate Reality, or the Hook or Book pitch, but if I do it will have a lot to do with that initial impression.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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No Jody: Supertypo was coined by Kath Brockman.
Walleye, I was 12 when that photo was taken at Lake Tenaya, summer of '80.
(OK, maybe 19 or 20).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
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I know Wally, I know...
On the adult accomplishment scale, I'm now up to about 14 years of age.
Go Double D!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nov 30, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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Man! they do come home to roost!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 30, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
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Yo, do you all dig the hexes in that Seperate Reality roof? Go for it that way sometime if you crave that feeling of really being bad ass. I tried it that way, that same year, got all the gear in and was too gassed to do much with the 1" part at the end (then a full move longer).
Back in the good old days, the shoes were blue and you did not have to waste energy comparison shopping, your rack made a pretty clanging sound, the smoke was cheap, and you almost personally knew the handful of folks from around the country who even tried the 5.12 grade. ahh days of sunshine, and stone, great friends and great times.
Peter
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 30, 2007 - 08:36pm PT
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So, where's Dave?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 30, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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What is Diegelman's (Diegleman's ?) nom de guerre? Can you you refer us to his pearls of wisdom and bon mots?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 30, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
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Cool Beans Roy! More blasts from our past...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Anders, Dave's handle is Double D.
Not sure about that fancy stuff, but we found him, er, he found us in the McKinney thread.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So now we have a DD (Dick Dorworth), who calls himself yeti. Sounds hairy to me. And another DD (Dave Diegleman), who calls himself Double D. Not to mention a CC (Craig Calonica), whose nom de plume is Captain Chaos.
I'd better not have another beer - this is getting confusing.
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captain chaos
climber
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Come on Dieg, say something... at least let us know what happened to that nice dress of yours.
Peter, rapid-cycling serial monogamy??? hum, didn't really think of that way, but now that you mention it, ya... we did put you though the advanced course, you were a good student until you came up to us and announced you had a girlfriend. We were devastated by the thought of a good student gone bad-
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Double D
climber
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You guys are killing me! Thanks for the kind words from all. I'm really grateful for the friendships and memories.
Pete…rapid-cycling serial monogamy!...man you missed your calling! It was a blast running into you in otherwise somber times at Randy's memorial. Many cherished memories and mini epics come to mind.
Kevin... Congrats on your 3 year old! Picts please…yeah I'm still pick'n and grinn'n…but my guitar just dried out and the strings are resting upon the frets. You??? I still remember those cold spring mornings when C4 had heated bathrooms (very short lived I might add), and lo and behold there you were faithfully serenading us daily. Thanks for the pearls of wisdom regarding the wheat n chaff…I don't get out much. Fact is I would have never found this if it hadn't been emailed to me. I truly have no clue about these deals. Are you still surfing?
Captain Chaos… the thread on Stevie was awesome…I really miss that guy! You blokes were always inspiring to me…especially in knee deep crud laughing hysterically at me from somewhere way below. You made it look so easy! Also thanks for the many times you "smuggled" me onto the triple chair at Squaw by fending a last minute mishap prior to getting on the chair so the ticket checker couldn't check mine. Many fine memories.
Spence…it was good to re-connect again.
Roy…I'd completely forgotten about the "dressed to thrill" climb in TM…ho… man way to funny!
About the dress, I drew the shortest straw that day and have sorta come up short ever since. You guys have all been a source of inspiration to me. It was a small tribe back then, wasn't it? There are tons more of you that I owe thanks to, and you know who you are and why I owe you thanks. Reflecting back, it was kinda like living in a live version of a Marvel Comic book, complete with all the characters!
To the younger generation…I too had hero's… take the Bird for example. First time I met him, I'm logging in flight time with a 40' winger off the first pitch of New Dimensions. He's walking below in some converse high tops and asks if he can have a tow…then he breezes up in tennies. Talk about a humbling experience! But Bird, in his classic "scouting new talent" persona, turns to me and says, "you'll do ok kid if you just remember to not step on the rope when you swing into a lay-back."
I am completely amazed at the younger generation of climbers (and lots of you who are still at it) and where they have taken it today. But it’s amazing to truly “see” the vision of our predecessors. Guys like Layton Kor, Frank Sacher, Chouinard, Robbins and many more worthy of mention did some incredible stuff for their time that slips through the cracks of time. Once while climbing Kat pinnacle (I think) with Chris Faulkenstein he reminded me that this 5.9 overhanging lay-back that was hard enough to protect with our modern hex’s, was originally climbed with pitons on the lead. Consider that for a moment… So whatever path we are placed on, we merely are building upon the past generations merits. As Jeff L so eloquently put it in another blog, rather than consider who and what were considered the boldest feats by our fellow bros, consider these feats as artistry, each individual works to be admired. Let me take that thought one step further and pose that the individual gifts that God has given all of you are to be cherished and should, if one considers in complete honesty, be a reflection of the gifts given by an incredible Creator.
I am reminded of a Bible story that the Apostle Paul was encouraging a tribe of like bros in Thessalonica to rise above the snares of the culture that surrounded them. He was encouraging them to excel in their faith and perseverance. In essence, he was passing the torch through a young Pastor named Timothy, whom he was sending their way. His concern was that the simple truth of the gospel, that is Jesus died for all of our sins and rose from the dead three days later providing a way for all who believed and confessed could have eternal life, would be perverted or compromised.
As climbers, we have a heritage and foundation that has been also passed along by our predecessors who laid the foundation. Most of us who are still alive know of many who have been lost to substance abuse, addictions and other selfish forms of destruction. For some, this resulted in a separation from society, for others, death. Having children brought about some serious reflections in my life about what torch I wanted to pass on. One of Paul’s final instructions in his letter to the Thessalonians should be the credo to all big wall climbers, “Test all things; hold fast to what is good.” (2Thes. 5:21)
God bless you all and in the insightful words of John Bachor, “climb with a rope!”
ps where am I and what am I doing?...To follow CC's lead...
I used to live near here:
But now, I look out from my back porch and see this:
And from my front porch:
And about a 10 minute flight in a Piper Seneca from here:
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Hey mate,
Welcome aboard! Funny to actually type at the guy on the back cover of Yosemite Climber.
Cheers,
"Praise the LORD and Pass the Pitons" Pete
Ps. 18:29b "with my God I can climb a wall." [Like, I can't do it without Him, eh?]
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