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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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This weekend was spent in Kentucky at the beautiful Red River Gorge. Many say (including myself) that this place has THE best sport climbing in the country. Others say it has the best in the world.
This weekend was Rocktoberfest so all sorts of people came out and had a blast. I went to climb, see friends, and more importantly hang out and work with Paradox Sports. You can read about them at Paradoxsports.org. Their mission statement is “to provide adaptive technologies and opportunities to those physically challenged in order to bridge the performance gap between abled and disabled athletes through inspiration, education, acquisition and motivation. Incorporating the natural elements with already established communities in each sport, the Paradox crew is bringing a new level of energy and unique expertise to the adaptive sports world!”
Anyhoo, I got to meet so many fun new folks – DJ, Reed, Chad, Aaron, Pete, VJ, Deutche, Dihn, Aubrey, Sandy, etc. And I got to hang out with people I’ve known for some time such as Devaki (sorry if I wrecked the spelling) and our very own Mal Daly. Timmy O’Neill came out to join us. One night he entertained all of Rocktoberfest with one of his standard hilarious presentations which included deserved recognition of Paradox. Micah Dash came to town for the event. He was great fun on and off the wall.
Unfortunately I missed many photo opportunities. In my defense, I was doing a lot of belaying and I’m not that good and multi-tasking during events where someone can be dropped. Hopefully others who were there can fill in with additional photos.
Here is a synopsis of some of the weekend -
Here is Malcolm lounging in the morning after a comfortable night of sleep in the Airstream. His companion – Matty - was quite the flirt. Plus, she acted like she owned the place. Well, she did own the place.
This photo again demonstrates my fabulous photography skills. This is Dinh and DJ at the campsite.
Micah sorting gear before we head to the walls.
Micah CRUSHED the place. Here he is warming up on Bandolier before crushing routes on the wall of twelves at Torrent Falls.
VJ topped out on the wall of twelves multiple times. He got up there in friggin’ seconds because he is wicked powerful. Here are members of the group getting his gear sussed out. Amazingly, I managed to get a photo of five people and only one face is showing.
There goes VJ.
And they say rock climbing and volunteering is hard work. Check out this volunteer. He’s clearly suffering.
Micah chilling between routes.
Is anyone here familiar with Bandolier at Torrent Falls? What a gorgeous climb. It’s rated 11a, and is overhanging (of course – it’s the Red). Here is Pete on that climb. He one-fell this 80’ classic.
A general “Hanging out” photo at Torrent. There were people everywhere, yet I managed to get two faces – Timmy and Sandy - in this photo.
Climbing was fun – but the evenings – they were a blast. There were movies, raffles, a rocking band, dancing, food and “some” adult-beverage intake. It was ideal socializing time.
I LOVE the Prana booth. Chris the Rolfer is my hero. Sorry about the drool on your table. My bad.
Hey Mal!
I love climbers. Hotties left and right. Here are a couple of photos with some of the Paradox Sports folks.
All the late nights, climbing, laughing, and one night of bourbon (ugh. Bourbon. Never again. blargh) left me completely exhausted. I left Kentucky last night at about 6:30. At about 6:40pm I was seriously fighting sleep. The Venti Latte at Starbucks did nothing to ease the agony. I managed to suffer for almost two hours before swerving into a rest area at the Kentucky/Indiana border were I crawled into my happy little bed and slept *hard* for almost 12 hours. Got home this morning to well-fed and watered parrots who were as happy to see me as I was to see them. Life is grand.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Oct 15, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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I understand now. You purposely live in a town that sucks so you can escape LOTS! ;) Nice. And thanks for "taking" us along.
pc
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L
climber
A chartreuse glider in an azure blue sky...
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Oct 15, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
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What a wonderful TR Crimpie! Had me laughing in a couple of places. That rock looks utterly fantastic, too...looks like an awesome time.
BTW, how are all the little birdies?
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2007 - 06:39pm PT
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The Red River really is amazing. The rock is beautiful. Some of the folks I was climbing with yesterday at the Drive By Wall said things like:
"That was superb"
"Every route I come off of I think is the best route there"
There are fun places to climb, and there are destinations. The Red is a destination.
* The birds are great. (Thanks for asking). We were all very very happy to see each other. Here are a couple of photos of Little Ike. He (like all of them) lost a ton of feathers with the near-death debacle. Poor baby. He looks pitiful.
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Tom the Cop
Sport climber
Northern Virginia
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
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I miss the gorge. I only did a little bit of climbing, but I used to go camping there alot when I was in college.
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
A Deluxe Apartment in the Sky
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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What's the name of that famous little pizza place and climbing store in Red River Gorge again?
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s_mestdagh
Trad climber
Between Boulder & Crestone, CO
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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Mal, you don't really have .... an Airstream .. do you? I mean you're a climber. Tell me it's not true.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:29pm PT
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very cool. this weekend i'll be taking my virgin trip to the RRG. i've been assured by the others going that not only is it awesome for sport, but that it is likely as good for trad.
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Burns
Trad climber
Nowhere special
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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Nice TR Crimpy. What you need to do is find the guy with the digital SLR and three lenses and make buddies with him so you can just climb and count on him to get you good shots for your TR.
The Red is fantastic. Some of the best climbing I've ever done. And to compliment your best sport climbing claim, I'd say its up there for trad too. Last time I was there I climbed a handful of four-star cracks and had a blast. Some of the best cracks I've climbed. And the best part is that nobody thinks about trad climbing there so there's never anyone on the routes you want to do. But I have done a handful of sport climbing there, including Bandolier, which I think was my first 5.11 onsight, so I have fond memories.
Glad to see the birds are happy and healthy and that you're getting out to do some cool climbing.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Oct 15, 2007 - 10:47pm PT
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Whats Mal doing with a box of Black Diamond stuff?
Gonna toss it in the river so everybodys got to climb on Trango stuff?
Thanks for the TR.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
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cool to see photos of Dash
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
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i bet he was switchin out all of the atc's for these little gems!
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
A Deluxe Apartment in the Sky
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Oct 15, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Anyway...here's my experience with that little climbing store/pizza place.
Donny: "How you doin'...I've heard so much about this place and I really wanted to come and check it out. I'm from out west, but stuck in Lexington on business and I thought I'd just drive on through and check out the area....sure wish I had my equipment and time to climb."
Owner: "Oh...uh yeah?"
Donny: "I keep seeing this stuff called 'Ale-8-One' for sale around here...I hear it's a local drink. I'll take a bottle."
Owner: "That's $1.00." (or whatever it was...can't remember exactly)
Donny: "Bummer...I've only got 3 quarters. Can I put it on a card?"
Owner: "Sorry dude....10 dollar minimum."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 16, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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Thanks for the TR Crimpie, what a great event to be involved in.
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
northern cali fall with the sunshine
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Oct 16, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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great tr, wonderful cause! way to send it!
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Bazo
Boulder climber
Ky
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Oct 16, 2007 - 05:00am PT
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The little pizza place is " Miguels " named after it's owner. And despite Donnys post above, he's a saint among humans....
Anyways, only a dork would put a seventyfive cent soda on a credit card...
:)
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2007 - 08:21am PT
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It is Miguels and it's terrific. Miguel, his wife and children are all awesome folks.
Ale 8 one? A late one? I can't drink those. They are like liquid crack for me. I'd be up for days.
The trad at the Red is great too. I've not done much of it there, but what I have done is terrific. Rock Wars at the Long Wall comes immediately to mind.
The Airstream Palace is not Mal's. It is DJ's as is the pretty dog. Zacho might get jealous seeing that photo I posted of Mal with another dog.
It was a fantastic time. I was being a baby about leading Bandolier because I'd tweak my back the Saturday before. I was skeered. Then I look up and see Pete styling the dang thing on lead with one arm. Kind of put my fear into perspective.
My laugh muscles are still sore.
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Domingo
Trad climber
Ann Arbor, MI
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Oct 16, 2007 - 11:16am PT
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I don't know what you're talking about, Donny; Miguel is amazing. Ale-81 is the drink you're thinking of.
Did you make it out to the Shire, Crimpergirl?
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2007 - 11:35am PT
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I did not make it to Shire. I heard about it all weekend though. I need to check out the new improved guidebook and head there next time...
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