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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
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Name climbing areas in North American where you consider the ratings to be sandbagged. (sandbag refers to ratings that are lower than reality. i.e. a 5.9 climb that is rated 5.7)
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Jailhouse
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Devils Lake!
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TradIsGood
Half fast climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Name the benchmark area.
Until you know what the base is, you can't know which are hard or soft.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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"Sandbagged Areas" - The Netherlands. New Orleans. Most of the Mississippi River's banks. Not much climbing at any of them.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Isn't the benchmark for YDS Yosemite?
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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LOL!
go figure huh.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Index near Seattle is stiff compared to the valley
Squamish is soft compared to the valley
Arch Rock is stiff compared to the valley...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Assume Reeds Direct, second pitch is the standard for 5.9.
we can sub in other benchmarks later
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I know I felt pretty humbled at vedauwoo...
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bwancy1
Trad climber
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Isn't the benchmark for YDS Yosemite?
Actually, the benchmark for YDS is Tahquitz.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Granite Mt., AZ. Do a 5.9+ at your own risk.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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At your own risk?
Have you done a GM 5.9+ that didn't have pretty good pro?
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Burns
Trad climber
Nowhere special
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Vedauwoo isn't sandbagged. Its just really hard to climb there...
Seneca is the most sandbagged place I've climbed.
Red Rocks is the softest.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Most any Jtree 5.7...
One of my favorite route names: "A Jtree 5.4" rated 5.7
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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I did a 5.9 offwidth that had been named "Vedauwoo 5.7"
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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no way moof. Josh is on the money most of the time. But if one isn't used to the friction, that can make it feel harder sometimes.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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The second pitch of reed's is 5.7ish, if that's your benchmark for 5.9 goodluck.
Donner has a high percentage of routes put up by the "Hardman" et al that are a little stiff for there grade( not everything). That 5.7 on the front of snowshed is stiff and Papa Bear on Goldilocks is way interesting .11b ( It would be 11d or 12a by modern sporto ratings). On the other hand that .10d on snowshed next to decompusure or whatever is kinda soft even if you manage to stay out of the corner and Peters on the front is more of a continous .10cish than an .11 but I've never climbed it on Hexes.
Anything rated by S.Roper usually had a solid 2 points one way or the other ( maybe not Travelers, that offwidth is good .9 by my standards but I sure ain't no JBRO on that size.)
Ratings are subjective and on any day who knows, I personally hate those heavy gravity days when 5.9 seems like hard .11, oh well that's life........
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Good point Bwancy. I'm curious though, why didn't the socal guys call it TDS? Or was the system not named YDS until it got there in the 60s?
pc
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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The Needles of South Dakota - you better be climbing two number grades harder than the routes you do there.
Agreed with Joshua Tree too.
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