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MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2007 - 01:10am PT
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On my way to Reno for work this summer, I had the pleasure of spending 10 days in The Meadows. I was in contact with a few folks who were doing new route developing at Dozier Dome and a few other places.
The first morning I drove up to take in the stunning view down on half-dome:
The first day we went up to Dozier, with a nice view of Tenaya Lake from the ledge where they were working on a new .10:
I got the second ascent of "Tourettes", so named cuz the rock was so hard John was swearing the whole time he was hand-drilling (I thought of the name):
We had a nice bivy. Evening light from the spot:
After a few beers, Greg Barnes and Brian Law broke out their replacement kits for "still life with King Cobra":
George showing off his crack'n up collection:
I did some free-soloing on Dozier the next day. Soloed Holdless Horror (3p 5.7), BullDozier (3p 5.7), and a new 5.6 slab that felt like 5.8. This was in preparation for my Grand Plan of soloing as many of the Echo Peaks as I could one day, and Matthes Crest the next. A day of rest (belaying FA's, actually), got my overnight permit and left the Cathedral parking lot at 5 AM. The sunrise on the way in:
When I got to Budd Lake it was still early and I got some good shots.
Echo Peaks in Budd Lake:
The sweeping Echo Ridge:
A nice close-up of Cathedral:
I got to the notch between Budd Lake and Ech Lake, looked at the 7 Echo Peaks and decided the first three were way too commiting, so I did the last four and the ridge to above Budd Lake. There was some scary-ass 5.7 climbing at the obvious sharp tooth in the middle left. Looking back up from the descent:
I got back to the pass in about 2-1/2 hours round trip, but was mentally exhausted from route-finding (I had no topo for Echo, only Matthes).
Looking back from Echo Lake to the traverse I did:
..and the West view of the mile-long Matthes Ridge:
I set up camp, and enjoyed a nice sunset. The reflection of the South end of Matthes:
and Matthes proper in evening light:
I woke up the next morning and hiked to the notch at the South end of Matthes Crest. Looking along the mile of traversing, I realized I was not mentally prepared for two hard, full days of free-soloing and hiking in a row. I should have gotten two nights so I could have a rest day. So I hiked across to Matthes lake and out the East side of the Crest. Looking back from the other side:
The next morning, I got up early as usual, and caught some more alpine light:
Then off to meet the crew for Sunday coffee in the Lot:
Left to right: Brian Law, George, and Greg Barnes:
George sorting bolting gear for the day:
Brian leading some 5.10:
I stayed in the park late that night to catch the sunset and full moon-rise:
Nice light in the trees:
The following day we went to Mariluolumne Dome and I soloed Hobbit Book, the most exhilirating free-solo I have ever done (all my solo's were onsights). We did some other new stuff they had put up and enjoyed the shade for the day. Then back to camp.
The next morning I headed out early enough to catch sunrise at Mono Lake.
Going back this weekend to meet up with Russ and Medium Sooz for some more fun. 3 hours from Reno!
Erik
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:13am PT
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Kick ASSSSSSSSSS™™™™
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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thx mang, good lighting shots.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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Thank you!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:04am PT
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Nice one Bro! Beautiful shots. I miss the place already.
Any chance you have a shot or two of The Goddess leading that 5.6d+ and can send them too me?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:06am PT
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those were really wonderful photos, thanks for posting. Looks like you had an awesome time with some cool people.
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:23am PT
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This is why I lurk this site. Thanks for a wonderful TR.
-Dirka
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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Very nice. Thanks for taking the time and posting.
pc
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Awesome. I'll be up there in 8 days...and counting!
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Matt
Trad climber
always on the lookout for ed's 5.10 OW van
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Aug 30, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
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nice post-
MC is not as hard as you might think, exposed but obvious, multiple opportunities to escape, easy to back-tack (except the 5.7 op the N tower), never as insecure along the traverse as the initial pitch to get up on top.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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Very nice. Thanks for the pix!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 30, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
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Good stuff!
The Hobbit Book is pretty burly huh?
At times you're left of the diehedral out on those Buttermilk like flakes, face climbing away.
I miss the Meadows and the whole social scene; I think I'm going to take my morning coffee and go out and have it on my bumper.
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
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^^^^^ That is spectacular. If you can get a high-res up somewhere I'd love to get that printed up!!!
friggen awesome.
jason
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 30, 2007 - 01:57pm PT
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Nice photo's Erik. Hell if you're gonna take photo's like that you can be our official cameraman this week.
See you soon, great shots!
~Susan
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kuan
Sport climber
CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Great pics, MrE,
Was that moonlight pic taken on a manual setting?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
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MistaE, sorry to miss you. We've been trying to reach escape velocity for the past few days but the butt gravity has been pulling too hard. Gonna be around Sat-Mon, Group Site. Hope to catch you then...
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10b4me
climber
Site C4 in TMCG
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Aug 30, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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nice pics. was in that area myself a few weeks ago. it is a GREAT place.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Aug 30, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
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Kelly,
Do you play poker?
~Susan
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MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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Thanks for the positive feedback!
Jason: shoot me an email at wolfeboxatgmaildotcom and I'll send you a full res.
K-man: I'll look for ya up there, leave a note on the board?
Kuan: I took a lot of the pics on "best shot" settings on my casio...does that help? ;P
Hell, I took over 300, SOME of them had to turn out good...
Erik
Tarbuster Edit: Yes Sir! I was up to the .9 roof before I looked left, and it added a little spicy downclimb!
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 30, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
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Excellent TR! Captured the Meadows Magic for sure. Ooooh I miss it bad. Many thanks.
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