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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2004 - 03:22pm PT
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I heard on the KRON morning news today that a couple of climbers were getting plucked off of El Cap this morning after the 4 day deluge. Is everyone OK?
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Matt
climber
SF
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Oct 20, 2004 - 04:24pm PT
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brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Oct 20, 2004 - 04:33pm PT
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Doesn't anyone check the weather anymore? Darwin lives!
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 20, 2004 - 05:30pm PT
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check it out - rescue helicopter right off the captain.
I think some miserable shite went down on the big stone.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 05:40pm PT
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Wow! Good eyes to catch that.
Ofcoarse, I guess it could be a bug's leg that just happened to get plastered to the web cams lens. Definitely looks like a helicopter though. I think you can just make out the rotor blades.
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ricardo
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 06:45pm PT
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i posted this in RC.com .. but might as well ask here also ..
.. any news of dave turner? -- and wether he got off tempest before the storm hit? -- by my estimates he should have been topping out last weekend
 ricardo
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Oct 20, 2004 - 06:56pm PT
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Or Lambone? Wasn't he planning to get on a route this week?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Ditch
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:16pm PT
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Scary!! I know how miserable it gets up there in a big storm.
I've made a few calls to people in the Valley to get some details but haven't heard anything, yet.
Hopefully Link will post something soon.
Yeah, last I saw Dave was halfway up (last week) and was going pretty slow. Also, Ivo and Leo Houlding were planning on being on the right side near Bad Seed.
I hope everyone gets down safe.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:19pm PT
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Good energy to those on the stone. :(
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Ditch
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:24pm PT
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I just talked to Chris Van Leuven.
He said he was pretty sure that Dave got a rescue, a Belgian party off Camp6 of the Nose and a party on Lurking Fear.
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chiranjeeb
climber
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:29pm PT
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Rescue seems to continue. Hope nobody is injured. Any updates?
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:29pm PT
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Good Juju.
Yeah, we need more energy to melt all of that damn snow. Winter sucks!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:37pm PT
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Ok, sorry for the wait. Some of you may be frustrated – that was not intended. I have been doing fieldwork out in the desert that I had committed to before the Zodiac project (Zodiac took longer than expected, etc.). Without any Internet/phone connection and a different mental focus, the project (or results of) kinda got put on hold. I also wanted to see what would happen and preserve the adventure level for the first party that would summit. Sounds like they had fun. So, here is a little info and hopefully it will answer many questions. There will be more info, but who knows when…
Special thanks to Gabe and Ivo, who helped me make this idea a reality. Yeehaw!!!… oh what fun…
I would also like to thank all of the monkeys that helped us. Whether it was talking on the phone, talking in person, carrying loads to the base, donating food and beer to the ascent, carrying loads down from the summit, cleaning the last two pins, talking to us on the radios while on the wall, discussing ethics in the Meadow, or belting out a brilliant rant at the base to keep us psyched, many monkeys volunteered time and energy to the project. You know who you are, and you rule! THANK YOU for your help! Without it, the mission wouldn’t have gone as smoothly as it did.
-Bryan
(American Chopper)
Zodiac Data:
Bolts/Rivets:
57 bolts/rivets removed, including 37+ bolt hangers
38 bolts/rivets replaced
(note: Shortest Straw data for belays 1 and 6 is included)
Cleaning:
61+ angles, arrows, and blades
21+ rurps
5 beaks
2 cam hooks
50+ heads and deadheads
5 cable rivet hangers
1 keyhole hanger
3 1/2 cams
2 ball nuts
16+ wired nuts
4 biners
2 locking biners
1 pile of used duct tape
1 large pile of tat, webbing, and cord
1 faded Huber rope with many knots
A few rusty partial pitons (or piton pieces)
100+ bolt-holes patched
Numerous bolts/rivets, bolt/rivet parts, nuts, and washers (see above)
1 weathered Supertopo guidebook (minus the Zodiac page).......(how ironic...)
230+ items total
Tools Used:
4 “Funkness” devices
1 “Butterknife”
3 sharp chopping chisels
2 sharp, chisel-tipped punches
1 dull mega chisel
4 wall hammers
1 4-lb., 16" Estwing mini-sledge
1 pair, vice-grips
8 tuning forks
1 bolt kit (1/4” & 3/8”)
1 patching kit
1 bolt sleeve hook
LOTS – elbow grease
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:47pm PT
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What the fuk is going on. I tried to edit, my earlier post on the plight of some climbers and it attaches Minerals Zodiac post. Chris something weird is going on with the forum
Ok I just heard the most recent update, at least for me, about the climbers. News said it was two Japanese climbers.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Oct 20, 2004 - 07:59pm PT
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Huh?????? Nuke it!
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highminded
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Oct 20, 2004 - 08:05pm PT
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I just heard a radio report (KCBS out of San Fran) from a non-Link park ranger who said the two Japanese climbers (the ones without a portaledge) are considered dead because they haven't moved all day. Rescue efforts are focusing on 3 other climbers; the remaining climbers on the wall have been assessed as OK and will be finishing their climbs.
The rescue operations will not focus on the Japanese climbers today -- they will be "retrieved" tomorrow.
Additonally, there are 10 missing hikers in the high Sierra who, evidently, got thrown for a loop by the storm. All are SF Bay Area locals.
Let's have good thoughts for all involved.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 20, 2004 - 08:06pm PT
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Minerals I just tried to delete it again and all it did was cycle me to the home page..sheesh
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2004 - 08:15pm PT
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Ammon,
Leo and partners were down on Sunday. I doubt they headed back up. ;-)
I heard through a friend that Dave was still on the route yesterday. Good to hear that he's off! I hope he's OK.
That's horrendous about the Japanese team though. I hope it's an error, and that they survive this storm.
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chris v
climber
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Oct 20, 2004 - 08:22pm PT
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To respond to Ammon:
I really don't know who got rescued. Dave was or was not. What I do know is that he was up there during the storm, and called SAR on his radio to say that he was not requesting a rescue, but would accept one if they were giving them out. However the weather got much worse after he called.
As far as Lurking Fear, 2 belguims were up there (Nico and Sean) but I hope they bailed before it got so bad. SAR said that there were two guys on Lurking Fear at midheight, so it could be them.
My condonlances to the families for the team on the Nose.
The weather was really bad yesterday and last night. I have never seen rain come down so hard on HWY 140 (I could only drive 2 MPH at times)- must've been really cold on the wall since it was snowing in the Valley. It started raining on Saturday night, and the storm escalated until today. That is all I know.
-Chris
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