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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Are the bolts still bad and need oval biners? Please advise.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 15, 2007 - 12:51am PT
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I once asked after that rig 'n someone said the route gets flotsum & jetsum from what is it, lunch ledge; seems that bivi ledge is a bit right to me. Got no news on the bolt hangers.
But like what was sorta said about that surf dude Eddy, "I'll go".
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2007 - 12:56am PT
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Didn't Yabo thrash around up there once?
You trolling us again .....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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It has all the buzzwords:
bolts may not be sound
requires oval carabiners
10d lieback
5.11 thin
10b fist
5.11 OW
10d loose
5.9 rotten
4th class loose
10b tunnel
generic loose
10b undercling
Jardine/Lakey FA
Werner edit: Yabo tried to get me to go up there with him..... I had a hair appointment or something. I think he wanted to straighten it out or something.... maybe to get away from the sh#t streak off of Dinner.
2x Werner edit: not straighten out my hair.... the route..... it wiggles a bit up there. Yabo had a plan.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2007 - 12:59am PT
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I had a hair appointment or something.
LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 01:06am PT
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how do I insert Ouch!'s ethereal yabo?
I tried to get the colonel to do that route with me, BITD, whatever that means.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 01:15am PT
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I might need this guy to go with me to help out with the wide tasks:
http://fishproducts.com/movies/jaybro_wide.mov
LEB edit: Jaybro, what are you doing posting???? I thought you were behind a tow truck or something?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Speaking of hair appointments..... anyone got that photo of Bridwell getting a perm or whatever it was? I think it was in a Patagucci catalog a while back. Nice one! Post up!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 11:05am PT
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No tow trucks
Toulumne grove to Walnut creek with no clutch in traffic in 3.5 hrs
but I'd been going wide climbing (to meet and flail on Boa, no less) so it's on topic and it's own odyssey
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 15, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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I talked to someone that bailed--they said the hangers were junk as was the rock...
{whew!-no constrictors}
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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Well chief, Missed it by that much.
(use don addams voice)
but the ultimate peristalsis still awaits
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 15, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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"Wrectum Wrecker.???" (Twall)...I remember the DCA sez something to the effect of "infamous kiss your ass goodbye rest position"
Edit: RobRob, '95 (FA) “This is one of those climbs which will simultaneously take the piss out of the arrogant leader and tear’em out a new one."...veering back OT.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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yeah, have to keep a goal in mind
or risk losing it altogether
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 01:35pm PT
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Nope, for the first time in years I went the other way. Fired up it in the morning though, no smells no slips. I suspect it's the cable/mechanism that went south as there were never any telltale burn signs.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 01:50pm PT
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Some hangers BITD had a real small hole to clip... the nose of "modern biners" would not go through the hole... sometimes we could clip them by putting the gate through the hole first, then after closing the biner, rotate it into the normal position.
426: what was that cryptic stuff you were babbling? "Wrectum Wrecker.???" (Twall)...I remember the DCA sez something to the effect of "infamous kiss your ass goodbye rest position" Edit: RobRob, '95 (FA) “This is one of those climbs which will simultaneously take the piss out of the arrogant leader and tear’em out a new one."...veering back OT.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 15, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
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Something in the SE for JCA's wide world of sport...
err, just right of "Fists of Fury"...left of "Wheatgrass Arete"
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
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oh... I get it now.... TWall etc. I thought it was some unreal and special beta on the pile I'm looking at....
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 03:27pm PT
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You know you guys have the same kind of coffee maker?
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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The bolts were replaced this season. The bolts were machine bolts, 1" long, driven into 1/4" holes, with homemade hangers. The hangers got deformed a little during removal, so those bolts were in there pretty good. A lot of climbers used this bolting technique, but none as good as Ray. In fact, many of these type bolts we find are downright scary.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Roger and I replaced them on August 25, approaching via the South Face, a traverse left on Dinner Ledge, and then rapping the route, replacing as we went down.
The tips of the machine bolts were ground to a tapered, square cross section.
We did not find the bolted belay at (4) shown on the topo.
The big corner on p6 (fist/ow) leans left rather severely.
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