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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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I am trying to learn how to post photos while here at rehearsals for the Academy Awards. After endless rehearsals I need a diversion! Hope this works...if it does I will be posting more photos in the upcoming weeks. This shot is of Kev racking up for our ascent of Beggars Buttress in May or June of 1976. The name came from the title of the Stones album. It seemed appropriate--not exactly the upper crust feast of climbing offered by say Astroman, but a satisfying feast none the less.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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Hey Chappy, I have been going through my slides too lately and have lots of classic Valley shots. I came across this slide of the first pitch of La Escuela from around 1975 that should bring back some memories for you since you bagged it. Led it after too much coffee and a fender bender, and still managed to work it out. That is one classic liebacking testpiece all the way up to its spacious summit and Rohrer anchor.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 25, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
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Mark!
Great shot...first thing I noted was the lack of camming devices; and Kevins calm demeanor.
Holy Smokes...guys are still scared to go up there with an arsenal of Aliens and the like. Must have been amazingly bold back then.
Have fun tonight you lucky Devil,
jow
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
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Beggars Buttress
They were lucky. You guys failed on your first attempt. Me and the Bardini didn't know you and warbler were up there and found your pack several pitches up.
Fortunately for you, Bardini gets sick at the top of the buttress that meets the upper wall and we have to bail.
You hear about it that evening and freak out and bag the FA the next day.
Hahahahaha
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 25, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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Wow Werner and yet another account of Great History!!
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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Really Werner. You should start a thread of all the routes you had stolen out from under you!
Wow Mark, you're in for an exciting night I'm sure. Hope it's not all work and you can have some fun.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
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No no they didn't steal any route. We didn't know they were up there originally when we made our attempt.
So Mark and Kevin were the original first attempt unknown to me and Dale.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 03:15pm PT
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Got it. I thought it was another Hank Barber incident.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
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Werner,
The first time up we were rained off from the ledge system half way up. Yes Jobee no camming devices. The lieback pitch in the middle was climbed with nuts only. Actually we did place an arrow to protect the face move right off the dog house roof belay. Kev started up this pitch first and placed a few pieces. Then I had a go. I pulled across the face move, climbed up through the alcove and started up the main lieback. I got halfway up, found some little foothold and blindly placed a six hex and took off for the jambs. Luckily I made it...it would have been a big whipper! It was the classic old school dilema: pro or go With camms you could sew it up. Steve, Wunch's and my ascent of La Escuela was a milestone in my climbing life. More on that later. Yes, I do get to enjoy the show...the musical acts are great. Can't wait till we go live.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
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Kath,
I set up a 3D camera rig similar to this one used on the remake of the Longest Yard. Its actualy a pretty cool gig. This is my third year in a row doing it.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
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Cool beans Mark. Some guys get all the fun jobs.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:08pm PT
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I never though I'd become the nostalgic, useless old piece of sh#t I've become! Thanks for the photos and tales.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
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This place does nostalgia pretty well! But will that scare youth back to rockclimbing.com?
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
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Jello, shirley you jest! You just saved that young lady on that other thread from a life of bruised knees.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:28pm PT
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Guess I was fishin', Mimi. Seems I caught a pretty one...Thanks!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:31pm PT
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I thought mack was a guy. It's a woman, duh!
So I gave a woman a mans response? So now I'm chauvinists pig.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 25, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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Chauvinist pigs don't apologize for comments like the one you made, Werner. Oink-Oink!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Feb 25, 2007 - 07:07pm PT
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MR = Kevins' son
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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I think Beggar's is really cool; 'been up it a couple times, you guys definitely bagged some overlooked pearls in the rough and they are well worth doing. Heck, you seemingly drive right underneath Beggars Buttress.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 25, 2007 - 08:03pm PT
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If I am not mistaken, Mark and his colleagues won an Academy Award for Scientific and Technical achievements in 2005 for their remote overhead mobile camera.
Congratulations, Mark.
Best, Roger
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