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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 11, 2018 - 09:41am PT
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https://www.azcentral.com/story/news/local/arizona/2018/09/10/12-year-old-boy-rescued-after-20-foot-fall-while-climbing-flagstaff/1263687002/
A 12-year-old boy was seriously injured Monday when he fell 20 feet while rock climbing with his family in Flagstaff, the Coconino County Sheriff's Office said.
The boy was climbing just after 1 p.m. with his family in an area known as The Pit, near the Canyon Vista Campground. Them he fell, injuring his head and wrist.
The Flagstaff Fire Department the Sheriff's Office and other emergency crews responded to the accident.
The Sheriff's Office determined the boy fell while trying to clip his rope into the third bolt on the ascent. Carabiners — couplings that lock the rope in place — that were attached to two other bolts broke, causing him to fall to the base of the climb that was 20 feet down, the Sheriff's Office said.
After inspecting his carabiners, the Sheriff's Office found they were not rated for climbing.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Sep 11, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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It sounds reasonable to think they were real biners, even for an adult. Good opportunity for a product liability case to get those dangerous things off the market.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 11, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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The operative clause: “with his family.”
“Hey, dad, hold my beer!”
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Sep 11, 2018 - 10:15am PT
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With the excellent quality of counterfeit goods coming from our Asian producers it always amazes me anyone uses climbing related commodities bought off of Ebay or the like...
Gotta wonder how many fake Putzl biners are out there.... holding the typical 4k falls... until they don't.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 11, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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Big difference between key clipping biners at the Home Depot checkout and the real stuff.
How much actual fake gear has been found and what were the technical specs?
Is there a good info source/articles on fake gear?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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My wife has a set of heavy chains for weight training. You hook them to the bar so the higher you lift the heavier the load as the chains come up off the floor.
Anyway, the set came with four carabiners which I mistook for BD ovals until I looked more closely. They are unmarked, have no weight spec, and the metal doesn't look quite right. But at first glance they look exactly like the real thing.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 11, 2018 - 10:40am PT
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Somehow he made it to the 3rd bolt of an actual rock climb.
If the least expensive and most basic element of his climbing setup was wrong - I'm very curious what the rest looked like!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2018 - 10:46am PT
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There was a story in one of the mags from a climber who got caught in a storm at he base of a climb. They set up a shelter using slings and biners. The biner off his water bottle made it onto a sling and got used at a belay when they started climbing. Do not even carry that junk to the crags.
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:14am PT
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CrowdFund a rack for that kid!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:17am PT
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The BD lookalike I mentioned above is 6 grams lighter than the real thing.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:21am PT
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I've noticed fake biner creep into various products. For example I got those latest rage hammocks for my kids to take to summer camp and they came with non-climbing biners that look almost exactly like those mini-Metolious biners. I throw all them all away for the reason described by John Beck above. I hope the kid heals up alright.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:30am PT
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I think I'll send one of those BD lookalikes to BD. I'll bet they'd be interested in seeing and testing it.
I am really curious what the unfortunate young man was using. And I hope he comes out of this well.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:41am PT
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Darwinism.
Those little fake biners are very useful wall climbing for keeping stuff handy without using up freebies.
Its climbing, not ping pong. If you get stupid you get dead.
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2018 - 11:45am PT
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Cease and Desist!
‘reminds me of Disney sending a rep to a friend of mine who then, owned a taqueria. The dude was there to check-out these ‘Disney’ piñatas for sale. Total bullish!t, like their gonna stop that stuff by litigation. Who knows where they were made (in Mexico).
My friend was wise and stated, “No, these aren’t Disney piñatas...they’re Disney look-a-likes; Minny Mouse look-a-like, Donald Duck look-a-like...”
That was the end of that...
 ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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Kris, could you post a photo of the fake beside a real BD ‘biner ?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 11, 2018 - 12:08pm PT
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Now tell us which is ‘real’, please.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 11, 2018 - 12:16pm PT
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Another reason not to buy Black Diamond.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 11, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
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Well I guess Peter is no longer at the helm but I hold the corporate entity still accountable for his perfidy.
Let him deny it, I still have the tape.
While in the midst of a political campaign against the state of Utah I informed Peter of the hate crimes committed by one of his dealers (and his family). He lied to me to keep me from making noise at a very inopportune time for him.
Liars are the worst kind off A-holes.
I used to be one of their best customers but I haven't bought a piece of BD gear since. I even insisted that none be used in the video I made with jello.
If somebody is cloning their gear ,..... kharma is a bitch.
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2018 - 01:15pm PT
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Kris, looks more like an earlier version of a BD oval or an Omega (stock left round, instead of stamped flat). Nonetheless, it looks like the ‘real’ thing; only pot metal.
ec
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 11, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
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The "fake" in the picture could be stronger than the BD biner. You don't know w/o testing, that's the difference. I would take either, really, if strength mattered, over one of those featherweight super certified "holds the minimum in the lab" biners.
Good thing the kid fell early rather than later. There was a kid the same age, climbing with adults as well, in Germany(?) a few years back, someone connected all his draws together with the rubber string keeper - died on impact from near the top.
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