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LuckyJack
Trad climber
Novato, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2018 - 12:18am PT
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So I’m headed out to Colorado in a few weeks, and assuming conditions are good, I would like to climb the Casual Route on The Diamond. From the mountainproject description it looks very moderate. Lots of pitches of 5.7 a few 5.8, a pitch of 5.9 a move of 10a. But it’s reputation is much harder than that, “pitch after pitch of hard 5.9” is what I hear. Can anyone compare it to Valley routes? We’re talking harder than East Buttress of Middle but easier than EB of El Cap? Or MP is misleading and we’re talking more like NEB? Easier than Steck-Salathe though, right? Let me know in the comments! Thanks.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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May 16, 2018 - 12:39am PT
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The Diamond is different from YOS. its more face climbing around cracks and stemming. You use the cracks but you also use a lot of small flakes as crimps and such, gymnastic if you will. Not exactly sustained but it is steep.
The crux of the Diamond is stamina (12 miles hiking? round trip) and altitude and strategy. Bivy spots are good at Chasm Lake. Weather is always an issue, but there is always this window mid June for some reason where its just stable as all get out. Otherwise get off by 1:00. You can pretty much get outta there at any point on fixed "stuff". The standard raps are sorta hard to see, most are hanging (no ledge) but are there. Ask locals about the north face descent AND camels descent because this second descent while challenging will save you quite bit of hiking. Don't forget to grab a sharp rock or two on the way up to the North Chimney in the morning. ;-)
The Casual Route only has really one hard crux pitch above Yellow Wall Bivy. Oh stay a bit high on the 5.7 traverse.
Don't be shy about Pervertical. But bring two #4's.
Good Luck! Go on a weekday!!!!!!
S...
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LuckyJack
Trad climber
Novato, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 01:15am PT
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Thanks, I’ll definitely be up there on a weekday, and be acclimatized, and be in hiking shape, it’s just the hard climbing I’m afraid of, haha, I mean it’s the casual route, how hard can it be, right?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2018 - 03:20am PT
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Remember, the routes start at over 13,000’! That alone gives it an aspect not found in Yosemite. I always found that the long “ easy” pitches were more work that the ones with short distinct and much technically harder cruxes. You try to go faster and get winded in those rarified heights. Comparing the pitch difficulties to things of the same difficulties in the lowlands is misleading.
It’s like people who avoid routes like the exum ridge on the grand because the pitch rating is too low. Believe me, that’s the least of your worries!
That said all, allrounders should do something on this wall!
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Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
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May 16, 2018 - 05:10am PT
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It took me three tries to climb it. The first time, we bailed on the hike up there, in a white out with lightning raining down all around. That was my first experience with lightning storms in the mountains. The second time, bivied in the talus at chasm lake - there are excellent spots and you don't need a tent. At 6:00 AM it was snowing hard, and once again had to bail. The third time the weather was good, and the route was actually pretty casual, although it started snowing on the last pitch. I'm sure all those attempts were in late summer when the weather is best. Although bivying in the talus was a fun experience, it's a lot more work to carry camping gear up there, and most people these days do the route in a long day.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2018 - 05:48am PT
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Diamonds are hard, they can cut glass...this diamond can kick your ass. Remember, the climbing starts off Broadway at 13,000 ft. The ratings are real and haven’t been adjusted dowh for altitude. That said, the climbing is fantastic.
I agree with skywalker about Pervertical, it’s a wonderful climb.The crux is thin hands but don’t underestimate the wide crack on the next pitch.
Start early, it faces east and you get very early sun. Summer means good temperatures but afternoons often have thunderstorms....not a pleasant event at that altitude.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 16, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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Most like NEB, of your list, except possibly like doing it with a very heavy pack to simulate the altitude. Most who succeed in a way that their ascent didn't clog up the entire wall for everyone else - these guys are probably able to rather quickly dispatch 5.11- ish routes of similar length and style at lower altitudes with shorter approaches.
It's all moot, though - it's a pretty unusual year that thing opens up in early June. Usually mid-July, maybe a little earlier for those willing to deal with wet cracks. I can see this mountain from my window. Today - it's still winter up there. Kiener's, for example, would probably be 100% snow travel from Chasm Lake to the summit.
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Gooney
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 16, 2018 - 08:51am PT
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There are a couple of squeeze chimney sections that I found engaging, one after the traverse pitch and the other between the crux moves and Table Ledge. Those were pretty aerobic given the altitude.
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LuckyJack
Trad climber
Novato, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2018 - 08:54am PT
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I said a few weeks, but it’s actually the last week of June we’ll be up there. Being at sea level though, I do forget how long the mountains hang onto winter. We may give it a pass this year for an objective we can tackle with more confidence.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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May 16, 2018 - 09:30am PT
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Pretty well captured above. The wall is steep and forbidding, and you don't get a good view necessarily of what the weather is doing. Don't overlook the potential north chimney approach difficulties. When I climbed the Casual we got off the traverse just as all hell broke loose, which was probably around noon. Try to hide from lightning and hail near the summit of Longs. Lots of lightning potential in the Front Range.
Coming from sea level to vertical rock at 13K+ is a challenge. I would recommend climbing something like Halletts, topping out at 12K, as a warm up a couple days in advance.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 16, 2018 - 12:31pm PT
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hey there say, st00pid Americans... the Diamond has a Mohs hardness rating of 7.
Pot calling the kettle black? What a conundrum...
Quartz is 7. Diamond is 10, and corundum is 9. Corundum is aluminum oxide, Al2O3, and many times you will see the words “aluminum oxide” on the back of sandpaper/abrasive material – it is corundum. Garnet is also used for sandpaper, etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness
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spectreman
Trad climber
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May 16, 2018 - 01:30pm PT
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The Casual Route is great but can feel burly given the approach, N. Chimney, and the overall altitude of the Diamond.
If you want something a little easier then you should consider "The Barb" on The Spearhead. Shorter, but still long approach, and an absolutely amazing alpine cirque to hang out in. The Barb has one 5.10 pitch that is probably a little harder for one move than the Casual route but is, overall, a much easier day.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 16, 2018 - 03:57pm PT
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You don't want to underestimate the effects of climbing at altitude when coming from sea level - they are significant. I remember my first month-long trip just up to Eldo from Southern Illinois was an ass-licking that didn't seem to stop for several weeks and I felt like I was just finally fully acclimatizing the day before I had to leave. And that was just Eldo, let alone just getting into town and heading directly up to 12k+ feet at the Diamond.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
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May 16, 2018 - 04:23pm PT
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Jack with all this beta you can't lose. I didn't intend to sandbag you, I forget I'm acclimatized from hiking at 10k all the time. Another option if you want to just go up there is "the Loft" - 4th class, but not something I would recommend to a non-climber. Click through the pix for the beta. I got lost after the Longs/Meeker saddle and need to get back up there to try again.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 16, 2018 - 04:33pm PT
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A Diamond day is like a triathalon performed starting at 12,000 feet or so. The three parts are roughly:
1. Hike to base from parking lot and scramble up to Broadway ledge: 3.5 to 4 hrs
2. Do climb: typically, 5 to 9 hrs, I suppose. Topping out in lightening storm is fairly typical
3. Hike back to car: 3 to 4 hrs
I mostly remember whining during events 1 and 3 (including the very end of 2).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
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Don’t sugar coat it, Grug.....
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 16, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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How much lightening happens in a lightening storm?
Are we talking a couple pounds or what?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 16, 2018 - 04:49pm PT
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The whining during event 1 typically goes something like "Are we there yet Dad?" The whining during event 3 typically goes something along the lines of "My feet hurt!" The whining during the end of event 2 really isn't a true whining. More like an expression of terror and focused purpose to get your ass lower than you are -- aka DOWN. This can often lead to up to a half an hour reduction in time span for event 3.
Oplopanax; If only it was so easy to shed those lbs.
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matlinb
Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 17, 2018 - 08:54pm PT
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So what would be an equivalent climb be in the Sierras? I have climbed the Casual Route, Tuolumne, and the Valley and all three quite different. Would The Diamond be more like the Incredible Hulk with the Casual Route being similar to Beeline? I was on the Diamond the day Jon Siegrist did the second ascent of the Full Dunn/Westbay at 5.14a. It was the most incredible thing I have ever seen in my life and totally immortalized my memory of the place.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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May 17, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
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^Don't ask me but I remember climbing Curving Vine on the Diamond and watching as Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue climb 5 routes on the D over like 10hrs. They even climbed Curving Vine once we topped out and "unclogged" it. LOL
S...
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