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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2017 - 07:28am PT
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A new line of bolts has appeared between Grahm Crackers and The Guillotine.
It is easy to clip the new bolts while leading The Guillotine.
Now that most of the guys like me that have climbed here for decades, are not around much ( or at all ) this could get more common.
Years ago I would have been back the next day to remove them.
I wanted to have a conversation about it first.
Ernesto ale
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Let's meet at the green church and hash this out...rj
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2017 - 08:23am PT
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If I had had a wrench with me I could have removed the hangers while keeping one hand on The Guillotine route.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Thanks for the info......
pretty weak ...
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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not cool, welcome to the gym
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Are these bolts that protect a new route or are they convenience bolts for The Guillotine?
If the latter, that sucks!
Either way it sucks. Some people have no sense of style.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Chop them!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Lame. Best to chop unless there's something going on I don't know about... Hope you are well Ernesto!
Greg
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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When in doubt - chop.
Tell 'em Rheinhold sent you.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Ernesto
Bolts placed so close to classic existing route are not cool. They severely disrupt the experience of climbing Guillotine. I'm in agreement.
It was great to see you Saturday.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I couldn't help but notice it gets 1.5 stars on Mtn Pjct.
Rad.
Whatz up Alois?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Anyone have a picture?
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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I think Ernesto might have taken at least one picture, not sure.
Hi Kris, thanks, I'm good. Knee's getting better. Hoping...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Creeping gym mentality changing the sport from adventure to "work-out-numbers-game."
Chopping is a harsh term. Pulling is better and more ecological.
It would be great to have the creator on here defending his work.
Perhaps we old farts no longer get a vote in this discussion. Not that we are wrong, just that our standards would even occur to the new generation.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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This is the future. All we can do is rage against the dying of the light.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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There is a reason that some climbs are listed as TRs in guidebooks. They might be a fun distraction while in the area, but were not deemed worthy of bolting (in this case far too close to existing routes).
The persons responsible should be contacted and ideally enlisted in careful removal (and patching) of the bolts - an educational moment and being part of the solution.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Au Contraire Spider...I climb with quite a few twenty somethings and they all have pretty strict ethics in regards to issues like this. They are, however, heavily into trad climbing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Spider, Jim isn't aware of the proliferation of eunuchs taking up climbing.
NTTAWWT, on paper anyway.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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The younger climbers I hang with all-arounders. Sport, trad, peaks, whatever. And their sense of style is pretty good. I doubt that this debauchery would fly with them.
Anyone notice what kind of bolts they are? Powers 5 piece are a snap to remove if you know the trick. Fixe studs are another story.
Newbies often drill the holes way deep. If you can cut them off at the surface without scarring up the rock, odds are you can drive them in deeper with a drift. Patch it and their gone. On one occasion where cutting them off was not a good option I just tried whacking them with a hammer. To my delight the holes were deeper than the bolt extended. Goodbye...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Newbies often drill the holes way deep
They aren't smart enough to wrap some tape around the bit.
You can't fix stoopid.
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