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Jasper72
climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
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I'd like to do the Nose this spring and lead all pitches. I'm looking for someone who can (1) clean competently and quickly and (2) take over leading in case things go south, or I bonk, or I give up climbing forever at the base of pitch 22.
Any suggestions? Should I just hire a guide? Canvass Camp 4 for a dirtbag who wants to make some cash?
I really don't want to take a gumbie, since one will already be doing the leading...
Cheers!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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But everybody who dies on the Nose goes straight to Heaven!
So go for it. You win either way!
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Yosemite Mountaineering School has exclusive rights to being paid to guide in Yosemite. Why would anyone with your attitude toward Camp 4 occupants want to help you?
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couchmaster
climber
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Touch base with Hans Florine.
I'm not joking. If you are looking for a guide, it's Yos mountaineering school, and they have some damned competent folks on staff.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oh, from Colorado.
Yeah . . . where are you from azzwhole?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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To an extent, people can protect themselves from wrongful death lawsuits by having the participants sign a waiver.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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If you don't find a taker online just allow enough time to find one at camp 4. Of course you'll want to check them out on a shorter climb first. You'll find someone stoked to do the Nose and have someone else do most of the leading.
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Jasper72
climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
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Yosemite Mountaineering School has exclusive rights to being paid to guide in Yosemite.
This is a true statement. Don't give someone money to help you on a wall unless they're YMS. Also, don't stay in Camp 4 more than 7 days per season, don't camp in the Boulders above Camp 4, don't eat leftovers at the cafeteria, and don't BASE in the valley. If you do, you make baby Jeebus cry.
Why would anyone with your attitude toward Camp 4 occupants want to help you?
What is my attitude toward Camp 4 occupants, pray tell? I mean, since you know more about my attitude than I seem to, perhaps you'll share?
A guide will not let you lead anything... really odd post.
Really?
Mark Hudon faced almost the same problem I'm facing, as described in his NIAD trip report. ( http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1004339/The-Nose-In-A-Day-by-Mark-Hudon ). Hudon wanted to lead every pitch and needed someone to follow. He even said he was contemplating hiring Hans to clean for him. No one blew his sh#t up with "only YMS can guide dooochbag" or "you know Hans won't let you lead."
I guess if I were Mark Hudon people would be polite, but since I'm a random baddie, people feel like they can talk down to me.
Ahhh... the Internetz...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jasper, I think it is perfectly reasonable for you to want to find somebody to enable your project knowing that you might have to pay that person to only belay and clean. That crack about Colorado probably comes from someone used to a steady diet of pin holes and granite slabs...I'm not saying from where.
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TLP
climber
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Ought to be easy to find a fun companion to follow, especially since that means you're doing the hauling as well, no? Dang, if you provide the beverages and do all the hauling, who wouldn't jump on it?
Enjoy!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jasper, you got crap in the posts because this is your first post here. Too many trolls to trust the unusual requests. And with the private messaging feature not working for all users, its hard to validate folks that don't volunteer info about themselves.
Also, you didn't indicate what kind of time frame you're targeting. NIAD or multi day? If multi day, then a prospective wall gumby may be just the ticket. If NIAD, then you need someone aerobically fit so they don't slow you down/bonk themselves.
cheers,
M
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WBraun
climber
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I used to have the same problems finding partners to do sh!t like this.
One time I wanted to do NIAD and looked for someone to jug as I'm leading every pitch.
Just a few hours it takes so is no big deal, right?
Found a guy but when we got to sickle he looks up and says; "WOW is that a long ways to the top".
OH NO !!!! sh!t!!!! he wanted to bail and everything I said to try and talk him out of it failed.
Down we go. So I told him I'm gonna find a partner to do Astroman right now!
He said he'll do that because it's not as a big LOL, ho mannn.
So we go over there and flew up that and then went over to the Rostrum and flew up that.
So that day was saved ..... :-)
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Pick up a day laborer at Home Depot and bust it out in a day...
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Gowen Geter
Mountain climber
Chamonix, FRANCE
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I am interested, Jasper.
Upside
I won't need any money.
I can bring 2 sets of the recommended cams.
I have a BD double ledge - if that fits the strategy.
I can dynamically belay a good catch.
I can jug and clean like a boss.
I AMGA my anchors efficiently.
I won't drink your beer.
Downside
I fart.
I'm not very good looking.
I don't drink beer.
I'll need a month's notice to commit to a 1-week window.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Yosemite Mountaineering School has exclusive rights to being paid to guide in Yosemite.
Some guy in another thread was coming over from Europe and only had a week, I recommended he hire a guide for the nose. Then someone else clued me in, that it costs over $5000 - it was so much and so out of the question I don't even remember how much. The ridiculous price is because Yosemite is all about monopolies. That's why I'm such a fan of the Forest Service and BLM, although they are charging for camping more and more these days.
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Gowen Geter
Mountain climber
Chamonix, FRANCE
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^^^
I heard that the standard YMS commitment is that you only get to jug the lines for that price.
Is that right?
I recall Micah taking a South Korean dude up it for way less.
And the awesome OP here, is offering to pay you to jug his lines.
You're gonna get destroyed by UBER, YMS.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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rj: hahahaha...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 10, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
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I'm with D2R2. I spent seven years as a guide for Exum in the early/mid 70's. Guiding is hard work, requires a high level of skill and has the huge responsibility of safeguarding the client in a dangerous environment.
Clients often understand and appreciate the professionalism of their guides by rewarding them with nice tips. Many clients make more money in an hour of work than their guide makes in a full hard day of providing them with a unique, rewarding and safe experience in a challenging environment.
In my opinion, guides are very underpaid for the service they provide.
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