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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 13, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Terrific news Vitaliy!
Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska. The West Face of Xanadu, Adam Ferro, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince's objective, is perhaps the biggest unclimbed wall in the range, looked at by many by never attempted. "We are hoping to climb it in a long push, employing big wall tactics of short fixing when possible," said Musiyenko. "Our hope is to connect natural features and free climb as much as possible."
For the whole run-down on 2017 recipients, check out Alpinist.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
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get it
get it
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yosguns
climber
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Woah, wah?! Awesome! Congratulations!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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b-b-b--bad to the bone
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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congrats V and team...
best of luck, have fun, climb safe
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Ditto .... and enjoy the moments.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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congrats dude.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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I hear they're doing the far left skyline in approach shoes, then rapping the face and posing for pictures on the way down. A little photoshop and a red line on a picture and it'll be all red carpets and bikini parties.
But that's a secret so don't tell anyone.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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WOW! Great stuff, V!!!!
Do it!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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Oh snap! The west face is the prize of the range.
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure P.T. attempted it 20 plus years ago. I think he bailed because of the time consuming nature of the pitches. Intricate aid, hooking, some drilling. V- you should hit him up for beta, and correct me if I'm wrong.
Good luck, bring head nets or the bugs will kill you before you get to the wall.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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Brian Prince (Shylock) is from AK so he eats mosquitoes for dinner.
So excited for you guys! And from what you've said about Adam it's gonna be a great team! #walmartofficial
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Ever since reading David Roberts (no relation) I've wanted to venture into the Arrigetch. This thread from 2009 helped drag him out of the woodwork.
The short film of the Caldwell/Kennedy/Rich trip in there was pretty cool as is pretty much everything Roman Dial and Luc Mehl do.
Regale us with stories upon your return! And pack TWO Chuburashkas for good luck.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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Xanadu West Face on the left.
Face just right of center is what Tommy and Hayden climbed.
Close up.
The second photo i-b-goB posted is the north / NE face.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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I hear they're doing the far left skyline in approach shoes, then rapping the face and posing for pictures on the way down. A little photoshop and a red line on a picture and it'll be all red carpets and bikini parties.
Hell no! That's too much work for the new generation! We are getting dropped off on the summit by a helicopter and rap bolting the whole face with powerdrills. That's the style!
https://www.instagram.com/p/br1brmxabT/
"Unclimbed west face of Xanadu, Arrigetch Peaks, Alaskan Arctic. Mugs had this near the top of his tick list when he died on Denali in 1992."
Jon Krakauer
And the route they climbed on Xanadu. We hope to go close to the middle. It is very hard to estimate HOW big is it, but I think possibly bigger than El Cap. Could be way off. But it sure looks HUGE in this video (can see it at 16 seconds and at 3:40): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkGHxj7uX4k
It was a HUGE and a VERY PLEASANT surprise we got one of the awards/grants. It makes us three committed to the trip, which is great, because HOPEFULLY we will see the incredible place with own eyes. We were actually planning this trip for 2016, but because Daniel and I didn't send in Tehipite Valley (in 2015), there were other priorities. But now they are taken care of!
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TEHIPITE-VALLEY-PART-II-the-biggest-unclimbed-wall-in-California/t13030n.html
Arrigetch looks incredible and that wall on Xanadu looks like the biggest possible challenge in the range. IMO there are several MUSTs on a check list before an expedition. Very high up is to have an objective that all team members are PSYCHED to try. And that is very true for the three of us. We are also getting along really well and have climbed big new routes together. So as long as the three of us are healthy and make it to Alaska, the rest is up to the weather and mountain gods. We have no shortage of energy to give it our best.
A HUGE THANKS TO everyone wishing us luck and to the Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond, Patagonia, Mountain Gear, Gore-tex and everyone else working on bringing the Mugs Stump Award together. They really give back to the community by contributing experiences to the lives of people like us.
PS: Don't let my mom know there are grizzly bears in the Arrigetch!
F, who is P.T.?
Ever since reading David Roberts (no relation) I've wanted to venture into the Arrigetch +1
His book was the first piece of mountaineering literature that I read when I got into it in 2010. On The Ridge Between Life And Death. Great book, great writer! Since reading it, I wanted to see Alaska. So in 2011 I went and did Mt. Denali with a friend...a different experience, nothing like what he described in the book. So now I am way more excited to see the Alaska he was talking about. :)
Full list of ALL THE TEAMS that got the support from the Mugs Stump Award for the year of 2017. All have really cool climbs planned!
* Revelation Mountains, Alaska. Clint Helander and Andres Marin will visit the remote Revelations, aiming for a direct new route on the East Face of Golgotha. Helander, who made the first and only ascent of Golgotha in 2012 with Ben Trocki, attempted the line in 2015 with Marin; they were turned back by avalanche danger in the narrow cirque below the face....
* Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska. The West Face of Xanadu, Adam Ferro, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince's objective, is perhaps the biggest unclimbed wall in the range, looked at by many by never attempted. "We are hoping to climb it in a long push, employing big wall tactics of short fixing when possible," said Musiyenko. "Our hope is to connect natural features and free climb as much as possible."
* Zanskar, India. Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva will explore the Suru Valley and attempt a difficult mixed route on the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780. Both peaks are unclimbed. "In 2009 India opened over 100 peaks for climbing after being formally closed forbidden for many years due to the armed conflict in the region," says Rousseau. "Rungofarka and Peak 5780 are among the newly opened peaks. Reports of good rock in the Suru Valley lead me to believe we will find high quality stone on these formations."
* Kishtwar, India. The Kishtwar region, also recently reopened to climbers after a 20-year hiatus, is still relatively unexplored. Sam Hennessy, Seth Timpano and Jared Vilhauer will make their second attempt on the 1700-meter North Face of Barnaj II. The peak is an unclimbed gem, and, says Vilhauer, "Will provide world class ice and mixed climbing on a big alpine face...."
* Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan. Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman have their sights on a long and technical ridge on Mucho Chhish, the world's second highest unclimbed peak at 7453 meters. "The line is stunningly beautiful and safe from objective hazard, while providing a logical and challenging 3400-meter alpine style objective," says Zimmerman. "We'll be traversing a mile of ridge above 7000 meters to reach the elusive summit of Muchu Chhish."
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:38pm PT
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At least there won't be any mosquitos!!!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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Paul Turecki. He was one of Mugs partners late 80s+.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:04pm PT
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Someone called it the Arctic Half Dome!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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Plan well. Execute. Return Safe.
More power to ya
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