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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 24, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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For the trip report on the rebolting effort and new climbs see this SuperTopo thread:
The Rebolting and Rediscovery of Slick Rock Dome
The Drive
Take Ice House Road off Highway 50 and drive 14.5 miles to the signed Pickett Pen Road on the right. Pickett Pen road is a combination of broken pavement, dirt and gravel. A high clearance vehicle isn't required but a low one will probably have issues. We do fine in a Subaru Outback and Sprinter van. Drive 3 miles and take a right hand turn uphill on broken pavement. Note there is a paved road at one mile on the right. Don’t take that. Don’t take any more turns and at about 8.5 miles you’ll get to Big Silver Creek. Park before the creek, or if you have sufficient clearance, 4WD, the right flows and the right vehicle cross it and park on the other side at the end of the road. The road becomes 4WD and ends a hundred yards or so past the creek so no big deal either way. Note: As of June 2016 a regular passenger car could make it to the creek if you brought a shovel to fill in some water grooves running across the road.
Camping / Bouldering / Hiking
There is undeveloped camping allowed all along Pickett Pen road with a few decent sites. There is a campsite just past the creek on the right with a large fire ring, when it is safe and legal. You can pick up a fire permit at the visitor center just off Ice House Road on the way in. If the bugs are bad you can drive a bit less or a bit further and camp away from the creek and it is still a short walk to the dome. There is at least one boulder with two jam cracks if you walk past the two broken-top trees on the approach to the dome.
You pass the Ice House Resort and store on Ice House road on the way in on Ice House Road. In addition to a basic campground store, it also has a café/bar serving burgers and such.
For a nearby hike you can hike up Big Silver Creek by walking back up the road from the creek crossing and taking the first left where there is a red "No vehicles" plastic post. Walk up past the sign to a an old logging staging area complete with a pile of rotting logs. To the left of the logs is the start of an old abandoned trail which follows the creek. It disappears in a few places but we were able to pick it up again. We eventually lost the trail but followed the creek and ended up at a private ranch on a lake (Veerkamp family).
Seasons
The elevation of the dome is about 6,500 feet, although it feels lower because there is little shade and the huge expanse of granite tends to heat things up. In other words, it can get really hot out there. Spring and fall are good, while during summer it is best to climb in the morning on hot days. Pickett Pen road closes due to snow in the winter.
The Approach to the Dome
After trial and error going many different ways there is now a very nice trail to the climbs. The approach takes about 20-30 minutes.
Walk on the road past the faded red “No Motor Vehicles” post as Pickett Pen road deteriorates and turns into a path, stepping over small downed trees as you go. The faint road/path heads to a small grassy opening, with a large downed reddish pine tree on the left. Head left and step around the trunk of this tree, then right and continue on a tangential path to the dome through a broken forest, staying to the left of bushes (as opposed to heading directly toward the dome, right and down the hill). Your goal is a bushy clearing with two broken-top trees. Once at the edge of the clearing, slant down to the right and you’ll see a creek with a sea of Alder trees that you’ve been cleverly avoiding. Continue downstream a short ways until the Alders cease, then step across the creek on two reddish steeping stones and you’ll see granite, the toe of the dome, directly ahead.
Between you and dome is "the bear" trail so head diagonally left towards the granite and turn left when you pick up the trail. The trail continues between the creek and the granite until you come to a open area with massive boulders and downed trees. The bear trail is marked there with a cairn where you leave it. Look for cairns and up a little higher look for a dry granite boulder wash tumbling down through the bushes. Head directly up the wash until bushes block your path, then look for a cleared trail.
Follow the trail up and left, with a few cairns showing the way. There are interesting granite formations and low angle slabs straight up, but that isn't where you are going, you'll need to move around left and up. You'll finally get a good view of the Crystal Wall area and a few more minutes you'll be at the climbs.
If you got lost we are sorry, we can feel your pain. Better luck next time.
The walk down the dome
It is a safe, easy walk-off to walk left across the brow of the dome (and beneath the large crown) and to walk northwest down the edge of the far side to the Nap Wall area climbs. It has been pruned and is not a bush-whack. You can walk off the southeast too, but that is a bushwhack unless you know the way, and it isn't obvious. It is best to just walk off the far side.
Recommended Climbs at Slick Rock Dome
For us, the four best climbs that best represent the sublime face climbing on near-perfect granite plus some flake and roof climbing are
1.Crystal Wall Route, 5.9
2.Ice House Roof, 5.9
3.Crystal Chute, 5.8
4.Crystal Crescent, 5.10 a/b
By the way, these climbs are located in the Crystal Basin if you were wondering about the names.
Recommended Climbs by Grade
5.6
Osprey Crack
5.7
Friction Affliction
Under My Skin
Crystal Blue Persuasion
5.8
Crystal Chute
First pitch of Ice House Roof
Flight of the Centurion
5.9
Crystal Wall Route
Ice House Roof, including Roof
5.10a
More Affliction
5.10b
Crystal Crescent, Sport
5.10c
Yap, Sport
The Climbs and "Local Ethics"
Note that the multipitch and one pitch climbs on the main wall were all done ground-up and the original 1980s routes are slightly or very runout, although the runout sections are typically on easier rock as the slope eases. The newer routes, also done ground-up, are a little less runout because of the use of a power drill vs. the hand drilling done in the 1980s. Or because the 1980 guys were just plain more burly. Both I think.
The half-pitch sport climbs on each end of the dome with sport anchors were bolted on rappel.
Thus the "local ethic" seems to be ground-up climbing on the main walls where the climbs are longer and rap-bolting / sport climbs on each end where the climbs are naturally shorter, half-pitch climbs.
Slick Rock Slab Area
The first place you get to when hiking in is Slick Rock Slab, to the right and kind of around the corner from Crystal Wall. The slab starts out fairly steep but fairly quickly becomes low angle. There are still a couple of stray bolts on the wall, newish looking, that we haven't touched (the top bolt has a bail-biner on it, while the bottom bolt's hanger is at an odd angle). We did put in one sport route, Slick Rock Slab, but the rest of the wall is a clean slate. There could probably be four or five new sport routes here, although mostly moderates as it just isn't steep enough for hard climbs.
1.Slick Rock Slab, 5.10 a/b Sport. 5 bolts. This starts below the boulder before the large bush as you walk up the granite gully. Or you can step across from the boulder for an easier start closer to the bolt. The slope eases after the third bolt which is why there are only a couple of bolts up high. There are clippable Fixe sport anchors at the top, but it does require a 70 meter rope (the route is about 33 meters). Otherwise use two ropes. There is room for climbs to the left and right of this route, and climbers are welcome to use the same sport anchor we put in although you can't go too far to the right because a 70 meter rope will not be long enough. FA 2016 Ney and Betsy Grant
Crystal Wall Area
The Crystal Wall area was mainly developed in 1980 and included in a 1989 Crystal Basin guidebook by Bob Branscomb who was also the first ascensionist on many of the Crystal Wall routes. The original, rusty ¼’ bolts discouraged much use in the last few (many) decades until the area was rebolted in 2015 by Betsy and Ney Grant with assistance of hardware from the ASCA. Bob Branscomb and FA Ron Vardanega kindly allowed the addition of a first bolt to some of their climbs to minimize groundfall potential and the addition of belay stations where appropriate.
1. LCD Liquid Crystal Display. 5.7? FA Don Garett, Ron Vardanega 1980. This climb was worked on recently and rebolted by Ron Vardanega and Charlie Downs. Beta to come.
2.Crystal Wall Route, 5.9R Sport/Trad. A superb face climb on almost perfect granite that follows subtle features of the rock. To find the route, walk along the base trail until you see a blank, white granite wall that you have to climb up to reach. The climb to the bench where the climb starts is a low fifth class scramble. There is a tiny roof/flake between bolts two and three were you can optionally put a 1/4" to 1/2" cam. Many will climb to the first anchor (double-rings) and rap off, although you can continue (tend to the right) on fun and easy runout climbing past one bolt to a double bolt belay station and then on to the top. It requires two ropes to rap off the first pitch. Note that it is easy to miss the last bolt before the first belay - its out right seemingly a little off route. If you want the same experience as the first ascensionists who were tired from hand drilling, don’t use the belay station and instead lay down flat on the upper pitch for more friction and belay from there. FA 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, Ron Vardanega
3.Crystal Blue Persuasion, 5.7R Sport/Trad, all bolts. This is a great 5.7 face climb on the steep main wall up knobs, flakes and sweet little pockets. It gets runout as it progresses but it gets easier too. To find the climb hike the base trail until you have to climb up between two boulders. Take a hard right at the top of the boulders and the climb starts there. Start the climb from the ground and clip two easy bolts on the way to the top of the pinnacle. There is a horizontal crack between the bolts you can put a 1" cam into, or skip it. From the top of the pinnacle step across onto the steep 5.7 main wall. Note that it is 70 meters (a bit more actually) from the ground to the two-bolt belay. Remember to tie in or tie a back up knot. As the lead climber reaches the belay the belayer can step up and left to give more rope. If you are using a shorter rope then stop and belay at the top of the pinnacle. FA 1980 Ron Vardanega, Don Garett. Historical Note: This entire climb was first done with two 1/4" bolts in 1980. Ron Vardanega and Ney Grant rebolted, lengthened the route and bolted the belay station in 2015.
4.Crystal Chute (aka Poop Chute), 5.8PG13 Trad. This is an excellent, varied climb that starts up a smooth granite face past two bolts, a dike and into a large flake system. The climb is really 5.7 with one or two 5.8 moves up past the first bolt. A 5.7 leader may want to consider stick-clipping the first bolt in order to do the climb. It is worth the effort. The flake system eventually gives out (move right) and leaves you wandering up positive 5.6 face moves, somewhat runout, past a bolt to the two-bolt belay. From the anchor climb past one bolt, move up over a small roof (accepts cams) and then past another bolt for a runout but easy climb to the top anchor. Note that P1 and P2 are both 70 meters. If you have a shorter rope get a longer one. Sorry, it just kind of worked out that way. Otherwise with a shorter rope belay in the flake system and then again at the small roof, under which you can stuff cams. You can also skip the last pitch by traversing right to the rappel station from the first belay anchor, but the second pitch is fun too. FA 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Historical note: FA Bob Branscomb permitted the addition of the first bolt plus the belay station.
5.Unknown, 5.8/5.9X Sport . Unfortunately this climb has serious groundfall potential before and maybe after the first bolt so it is hard to recommend. We don’t know who put it up so we haven’t added any bolts. It was likely put up recently, 2010 to 2014 perhaps, with ClimbTech SS bolts. From More Affliction move left and climb atop a large boulder. From there you can see and covet the first bolt. However you must step across onto the wall for an immediate 10 feet of exposure, then climb up over a mantel move and continue up to the bolt about 30 feet above the ground. From there it is a nice runout face climb straight up the wall for two pitches (each with two bolts) ending with a belay with uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks that we added. From there the third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains. Or head dead right to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction. FA Unknown
6.More Affliction, 5.10a Trad (pitch one is all bolts). Look for a sandy spot to the right of a large boulder. Thin 5.10 face moves bring you past two bolts then it gradually gets easier. The route heads up and a little left, then up water streaks past a the big dike and hard right to the first belay at the rap chains (not the double bolts) shared with Friction Affliction. The route from here heads up and left for a romp across the 5.7/5.8 face seeking out flake and roof features large enough to accept pro. Aim for the left end of a small, long roof (a big section of which fell off September, 2015) and then up to a vertical flake system. From there you should be able to see the belay anchor. The pitch ends and at the top anchor of Unknown, two uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks. The third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains. Or head dead right to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction. Bring small pro. Some of the placements are not the best so the second pitch isn't for the 5.7/5.8 leader. FA Bob Branscomb allowed the addition of bolt number one on P1 (to prevent groundfall). FA First pitch 1981 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Second pitch 1989 Bob Branscomb, P. Brown, K. Stouffer.
7.Friction Affliction. 5.7 Trad, P1 all bolts. To the right of the steep-start More Affliction is Friction Affliction, a multi-pitch climb that shares the same belay/rappel chains as More Affliction. The first pitch is all bolts and it uses the two-bolt anchor of Arch Traverse but not as a belay station - keep going. From the belay station head straight up the obvious crack/flake system (large pro), then up and over the small roof for a short section of face past one bolt near the big Ice House Roof to the next belay at the rap chains above the corner of the roof. FA Bob Branscomb allowed the addition of much needed bolt number one, which is still pretty high up in order to protect a groundfall once near the original bolt one. FA First pitch 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, M. Treadaway Historical note: Friction Affliction was a bit of a mess in 2015 as previous climbers had double bolted the route so there were two bolts (the original 1/4" buttonhead bolts and "new" 3/8" sleeve bolts) running up the wall and three or four bolts at the belays - but the "new" bolts were plated steel likely from the 1990s and quite rusty. All the bolts were pulled and replaced with stainless steel hardware.
8.Ice House Roof. 5.9 (5.8 var) All bolts. A quality climb that features steep, knobby 5.8 climbing past the corner of an arch, then pulling through the 5.9 crux on the third pitch up and over the middle of one of the major features of the entire wall, a long roof. This climb starts out 5.8 from the ground, then easier climbing up a broad white water streak that flows up to the corner of the big arch. Follow the bolts straight up to the corner of the arch then 5.8 again on steeper rock past the arch. The climb then traverses right into a long white water streak (that falls over the middle of the arch) to a two-bolt ring anchor. From the anchor climb a short easy one-bolt pitch following the narrowing water streak to a two-bolt anchor that sets you up below the big roof. The third pitch continues to follow the water streaks through the roof (5.9) and ends at another two-bolt anchor with an easy walk off to the right off the face. The reach moves through the roof are height dependent so if you are shorter than about 5’ 8” they are probably more like 5.10 moves. A bolt protects the move over the roof. You can bypass the difficulty by traversing well to the right under the roof until it can be easily surmounted (5.5R), then traversing back left into the water streaks. Skipping the roof gives the climb an overall 5.8 rating. If you think you might skip the roof by climbing around it then bring a few small cams, as you will miss the bolt but there is a crack higher up. All belay stations have rings so you can rap or walk off. FA 2015 Ney and Betsy Grant
9.Ice House Roof Direct. 5.10a PG13 all bolts. Climb up Ice House Roof almost to the corner of the arch, but instead of starting up the steep "ladder" section past the arch, traverse right under the corner and look for a bolt on the wall above the arch that protects the move over the Arch. And up you go. Maybe. Then work right above the arch past two bolts then up on steep face climbing (follow the water streaks) to the belay anchor. We found and replaced an old ¼” buttonhead bolt where the second bolt is above the arch, so it is possible the move to get above the arch has been done previously. FA Unknown
10.Arch Traverse. 5.5/5.6R Sport. This follows three old 3/8" bolts (not replaced) under the arch and then traverses out (you can clip a new bolt on Ice House Roof) and ends at the two bolt belay anchor. Careful though, it is an easy climb but such a traverse could mean a nasty fall for leader or follower. FA Unknown
11.First Route, 5.4 Trad, X Somewhere to the right of the arch, is the original climb up the dome by Bob Branscomb and Kim Treadaway. No bolts. FA 1980 Bob Branscomb and Kim Treadaway.
Crystal Wall Rappel
The main Crystal Wall rappel station is the top of Crystal Chute, which consists of two chains above a depression with a good stance. From here it is steep fourth class to the very top.
To find the Crystal Wall rappel from the top walk under the crown of the dome until you are beneath a small pine tree on the top of the crown. Surprisingly, Bob’s 1989 guidebook also mentions this tree as being about 5 years old and it still looks about 5 years old. Tough life. Walk (on belay if you wish) directly down from this tree to find the chains at a good stance.
From this point you can use two 70 meter ropes and rappel straight down and slightly left to a mid-wall rappel station with chains, then all the way down in another 70 meter two-rope rappel. CAUTION: These are really 70 meter rappels! If using shorter ropes rappel way left (looking down the wall) and rappel down the route Friction Affliction in three raps on rappel chains. If you choose this alternate rap, you WILL get your rope stuck on a ledge on the second rap but it is a short easy climb up 10 feet to retrieve it.
Nap Wall Area
This area was developed in 2015 except for two old routes with ¼” buttonhead bolts, likely from the 70s or 80s. The old routes were rebolted and one was lengthened with a belay station added. This wall is named for a striking feature evident in the aerial photos. We didn't notice it on the ground, and I didn’t noticed when I did the fly-by for the photos, but when I saw the photos on the computer I showed Betsy and asked, “what does this look like to you?” She said, “Um, Not A Penis”. Nap.
You can reach the Nap Wall area by continuing on the trail for a few minutes past the Crystal Wall area. The actual Nap (Not a P**s) will be evident, then the large slab where Iliac and Naptime are located, then finally the beautiful granite face of Crystal Crescent below an arch.
1. Halloween Trick, 5.4/5.5 Trad, This is the big flake over the climb Over Arching Concern. This was done Halloween 2015 and since it wasn't a treat, it was a trick. It is hard to protect, very easy in most spots with a few 5.5 moves. Not a very good climb. FA 2015 Betsy and Ney Grant
2. Over Arching Concern, 5.6R Trad. This is the left-side of the Crystal Rock Arch which arches over the Crystal Crescent climb. Start by climbing up the large unprotectable flake to a good stance where you can finally protect. Continue to climb under the arch, mainly face climbing, runout at times, to the anchor at the apex. You can lower off with a 70 meter rope but tie a backup knot at the end of the rope and be careful! It is close. FA 2015 Betsy and Ney Grant
3.Crystal Crescent, 5.10b, Sport. A fantastic, sustained sport climb on fine, clean granite. You may have to go to Tuolumne Meadows to find anything as good. To find the start, walk up on the easy low ledge at the bottom of the steep face below the Crystal Crescent Arch. Follow the bolts up past a small crescent to the sport anchor at the apex, 30 meters up (a 70 meter rope works for lower-off or TR). FA 2015 Betsy and Ney Grant
4.Flight of the Centurion, 5.8+, Trad. Start in an alcove at the end of the ledge that Crystal Crescent starts on. A thin finger crack / undercling / lieback leads you around and up this smooth granite block. Features on the face make it easier than it looks. Note that it is difficult to see your placements when leading. Continue on up past flakes and onto the face to the anchor at the apex. Easy to TR from apex anchor. FA 2015 Betsy and Ney Grant
5.Slick Rock Cracks. 5.6 Trad. Start at the same alcove as Flight of the Centurion and step out right on the face and move right, clip one bolt (shared with the route Yap), and head above the large bush. Start in the left crack and move, higher up, to the right one. After the crack ends continue up the flakes then left on the face to the anchors at the apex of the arch. You can lower off on one 70 meter rope but be careful, it is close to using up an entire 70 meter rope. This is the easiest way to get to the anchor to set up a top rope. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
6.Yap. 5.10c Sport/Trad. Walk down past Crystal Crescent ledge and this climb starts steeply up the wall and passes between bushes on either side. The first bolt was placed so that you can walk out on a ledge to pre-clip it if you choose. Bring mid-size cams for a crack mid-wall and also for the top flake before the apex anchor. From the top of the block continue on to the apex anchors. You can top rope this with two ropes from the anchor. The difficulty doesn't last long and the crux is between the first and third bolts. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
7.Naptime. 5.9 Trad. The first bolt is at the end of a long horizontal crack low to the ground. The climb starts with an easy mantel onto a small shelf to reach that bolt. Unlike some of the dome climbs where the crux is near the ground, the difficulty gets gradually harder as you move up, finally easing up as you reach the right-leaning (and easy) crack that leads you to the ring-anchors. It takes two ropes to rap from there. Bring a few small to medium cams for the top crack. FA 2015 Ney and Betsy Grant
8.Iliac. 5.9 Trad The first bolt is lined up far below a tiny pine tree on the face. The bolt is fairly high up and hard to spot from the ground, but it is easy climbing on highly featured rock to clip it. Note that the third bolt is way left and hard to see. There is a crack near the pine tree that accepts small cams to 1” and there you can clearly see the bolt at a 5.9 bulge and the crux of the climb. If you have a 70 meter rope you can continue past the massive ledge and up smooth 5.7 face climbing past two bolts to the ring anchors shared with Under My Skin. It takes two ropes to rap from here, or continue on fun, easy climbing (but no protection) to the uppermost anchor. Or if you want to skip the last bit up the wall, you can climb left up the ledge-crack to the Naptime ring anchors. FA Bottom Unknown, Top 2015 Graeme Plant and Ney Grant
9.Under My Skin, 5.7+ Sport. A fun face climb that tucks under the massive flake to the left of Urethra. At times you can grab the flake or lean back against it. This made drilling on lead very easy through this section. The climb then leaves the flake, moves out into the open and up water streaks to the ring anchors. It takes two ropes to rap from here, or continue (right) on fun, easy climbing (but no protection) to the uppermost chains. The start of the climb is at the very tip of the not-a-p***s, reached via easy 5th class scrambling from the very bottom. It is a 60 meter pitch and if using a shorter rope you can belay from a ledge at the top of the flake. FA 2015 Ney and Betsy Grant
10.Urethra, 5.8 Sport, PG13 This enjoyable face climb goes straight up the middle of one of the main features of the dome. Not-a-penis. At 5.8 there is just enough friction to make it a pleasurable experience and the protection is adequate so you can enjoy the climax of the route without much worry. You can stop at the intermediate rap anchor/belay but if you are having fun it can be pretty darn hard to stop halfway. The start of the climb is at the very tip of the not-a-p***s, reached via easy 5th class scrambling from the very bottom. FA Unknown. Note as of June 2016: The first bolt after the first pitch is still a 1/4" rusty thing. Sorry, we just plain missed it and then forgot to bring a tuning fork piton when we had planned to finally get rid of if. So maybe you do have to worry about the climax...
11.Osprey Crack. 5.6 Trad. Named after an Osprey that cruised by the dome while the FA team climbed the route. This is a nice, varied route that starts on a face, into a crack, that runs out onto a face, then into a large flake system on the main wall. To find the climb, walk past Crystal Wall Route (the clean white granite face that you have to climb up to) and look for a granite left-going ramp that leads to a notch. To preview the route, don't take the ramp but head down and left between two pine trees (the only ones around) and you can see the crack you are heading for. Scramble up the ramp and through the notch to find a sandy ledge that you start the climb from. Start on small easy holds to a bolt (easily visible from the start), then straight up under a small roof and continue straight up into a large crack. The crack leads to an intersection, where you take a left and head up the steepest crack. Bring a thin nut tool in case you need to excavate some dirt (all the pro placements were dug out by the FA team, but perhaps not where you would like them). Hopefully this climb will see some traffic and will become cleaner as time goes by. The crack eventually runs out near the top but there is a bolt for protection in the blank section. This leads you to the base of the main wall and the first belay. From here head up the main wall past a bolt to a flake system, then up a full pitch of easy, fun flake and face climbing to a natural belay when you feel comfortable walking up from there. Or belay a third pitch all the way to the brow of the dome. FA 2016 Ney and Betsy Grant
Rap the Nap
The Nap Wall rappel route is the route Urethra, straight down the not-a-p***s.
To find the anchor (rings) from the top walk northeast past the Crystal Wall small pine tree about a hundred yards and look for a three-sided 4 foot high block. Think about the fact that if it were four sided the snow and ice would have popped it off and taken it down the dome. Walk down and about 30 feet to the right for the chains. It is one 70 meter (two rope) rappel from the anchor down Urethra or you can do it in two raps using the intermediate rings. Note that if you do it in one rap you will still have to downclimb easy but steep 5th class rock to the ground from the tip of the not-a-p***s.
October Wall
This is a hidden sport / top rope area near the Nap Wall Area. Stand at the bottom of Crystal Crescent and turn around. The one pine tree you can see is the top where the two bolted anchors are. To get to the bottom walk / bushwack over and head between the pine tree and a cool granite knob lower down. Scramble past the top of the knob and drop down a steep fourth class chimney then step around to the right to the base of the climbs. The climbs are about 50 feet and feature steep flakes and cracks vs. the mainly face climbing of the dome.
Because you’ll get to right-most climbs first, this list is from Right to Left. The first two climbs can be top roped from a two bolt anchor below the tree. The other climbs are best top roped from an anchor above and to the side of the tree. Besides the climbs here there are harder lines that you can top rope and play around on.
1.Snow Flake Right, 5.9 TR Mantle up onto the ledge, then undercling the flake all the way around to the right and up the face. It is conceivable that the bottom left portion of the flake could break off, so be careful in pulling out on it. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
2.Snow Flake Left, 5.9 Sport. This is a tightly bolted fun sport climb (4 bolts) or top roped. Mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt. It is conceivable that the bottom left portion of the flake could break off when doing the mantel move, so pull down not out. Once on the ledge moving up doesn't involve pulling on the flake. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
3.September Flake, 5.6, Trad, TR. This is a fun flake that turns into a crack higher up. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
4.Autumnal Cracks, 5.7, Trad, TR. Two hand cracks start up the wall. Using both cracks it is easy 5.7 but you can choose to induce much more pain to your hands and feet by using only one crack or the other. The rock is quite rough so bring tape if you want to practice jams. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
5.Ides of Fall, 5.8 TR The left-most climb is an undercling that starts at ground level. The granite surface is a bit loose and it may not get climbed enough to get clean so be careful. Start off the ground in an undercling and move left and transition into a lieback. FA 2015 Betsy, Belyn and Ney Grant
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 24, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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thank you for all your work!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jun 24, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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Wow! Thanks for all the work, both in the real world, and in the virtual world making the information available.
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Jun 25, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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thanks for sharing your beta
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 25, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
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Nice! Thank you all! I look forward to checking this area out
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 27, 2016 - 08:04am PT
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Sweet thanks
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 08:12am PT
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Excellent, thanks for the great work and information!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 27, 2016 - 09:41am PT
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I had heard of slick rock, but didnt think it was that close to Tahoe for some reason... Really cool! looks like you guys had some awesome times out there in the solitude... Don't worry, except for a few initial looky-loos, your place will probably stay pretty quiet.
How much potential for .11 or beyond do you see?
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Oh yea! Moderate slab climbing in Tahoe! Thanks for the all the work!!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2016 - 11:26am PT
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Yeah, not that close to Tahoe but in general its in that area. That was more so climbers in say, Colorado, would know its not there.
5.11 possibilities? A few I think, but because of the nature of the dome not any long hard routes. I could walk along and point them out to someone but what fun is that? My only hope is that folks do what we did - if we couldn't lead them (with a drill) we left them for others.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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Cool looking area. Great beta too!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 28, 2016 - 06:02am PT
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BUMP
to keep it. Close to your Great Tip Report
Upload by: Ney Grant
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 28, 2016 - 06:19am PT
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Awesome - thanks for sharing!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 28, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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Yes, really thanks for this and the other thread, and for good climbing content.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 29, 2016 - 06:54am PT
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Very nice beta. I participated in development of Wright's Lake, during the late '80s. We noticed Slick Rock at one point, I don't recall exactly how, probably from Ice House Rd. We got pretty excited seeing it from afar, and one time we went out there, without ropes, just to scope it out. I recall some fairly stout manzanita thrashing, but we very well may have been off the best approach. The dome was lower angle than what we were hoping for at the time, but it sure looks attractive to me now!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jun 29, 2016 - 11:00am PT
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Excellent!
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Jun 29, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Curious- is that the Betsy that was in Thailand in the early 1990s?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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Curious- is that the Betsy that was in Thailand in the early 1990s?
We had our 31st anniversary yesterday so if I did my math correctly we were married during the early 90s. She did have Wednesday's off while I didn't and she took time off for kids, and she is an amazing woman, but I don't think she pulled off Thailand without me knowing.
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