Touchstone Climbing Gyms Turn 20 - Got a Story?

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
I know a lot of folks here are Touchstone members... wondering if any of you have stories from the last two decades. Here is mine below:

Last friday, Touchstone Climbing & Fitness celebrates 20 years - which is exactly how long i’ve been big wall climbing. This is not a coincidence. I got the business plan for Touchstone when I was a freshman at San Francisco University High School. I promptly turned over my life savings to Mark Melvin and Debra Melvin. The money came from being an umpire, grounds keeper and snack shack operator for Mill Valley Little League. I just wanted free membership for life and to be apart of the one of the biggest climbing gyms ever conceived. Mark then offered to take me up El Capitan - which was HUGE considering I’d only been climbing 6 months and the tallest thing i’d climbed was the Golden Gate Bridge.

To train, we went over to the first gym, Mission Cliffs Indoor Rock Climbing Gym which was vacant except for a giant “20 Ton Capacity” crane that could cruise up and down the building. Mark put a rope on the crane hook and raised it up to the ceiling (this crane had the power disconnected but you can still see it when you walk in up and to the right). He taught me to ascend a rope as Debra and (a very small Daniel Melvin) watched. Shortly after we climbed the West Face of El Capitan.
That climb changed the trajectory of my life. I became an El Cap addict and a few years later started the American Safe Climbing Association and SuperTopo Best of all, I got a great friend and climbing mentor in Mark.

We went on to climb El Cap over a dozen times. My favorite ascent was where this photo was taken, The first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan. We climbed 13,000 feet and 75 pitches over 5 days. Here Mark pendulums over toward Mescalito. El Cap Tower is in the background.

Touchstone is still the best investment I’ve ever made, mainly for non monetary reasons.

PS: I go into more detail on this in my Enormocast Episode here http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2680635/Enormocast-Chris-Mac-Talks-About-Moderating-The-Forum-etc

PPS: There is a Girdle Traverse Topo on this page: http://www.supertopo.com/a/Yosemite-Big-Wall-First-Ascent-Topos/a11406n.html
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Oct 5, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
Yeah. been a member the whole time, and the the place has gotten nothing but more crowded with rude, asocial, tech weenies talking about their bullshit jobs, or their time at burning man or some coding camp bullsh#t. And prices keep climbing, with no real effort made to regulate the crowding or poor etiquette or bad belaying, etc.
i go there in the mornings if possible, cause those bros are off at their super important jobs, or something like that. When it's quiet and not crowded it's great-you can get a lot done, and the routes aren't too goddamn boring.
When it's crowded it's like a 20 something pick up bar full of active wear d#@&%es. I can't decide what's worse, the ignorant newbies, or the screaming grunting sport leaders working their 25 foot proj. It's a gym for f*#ks sake, not Clark Mountain.

ooo that feels better.
Rick Vena

climber
SF,CA
Oct 5, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
Awww come on David! There's still a lot of fun to be had there. I have many fond memories of "climbing" there with you, Amy, Russ and a bunch of other folks. There are still good people to be found. You just have to see past the selvedge and plaid!

Besides, where else are you gonna find out about the next Bandalooping, Yoga, organic gardening retreat?
jonnyrig

climber
Oct 5, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
I kinda like Touchstone. They wont let me climb lead though, since i dont 'know' somebody there. Saw some famous dude there once. Always entertaining.
monolith

climber
state of being
Oct 5, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
I've seen lots of employees checking for bad belaying. Thay are pretty damn safe as far as I can see.
WBraun

climber
Oct 5, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
I've seen lots of employees checking for bad belaying.

I went to a gym and the first thing is I got busted for "Bad Belaying"

WTF man???

Then owner comes over and tells his techy to beat it ... LOL.

Hell ... TM was belaying with the rope around his waist in front of a sh!t load of n00bs.

LOL

David Knopp .... tooo funny man ......
tallguy

Trad climber
tacoma
Oct 5, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
My wife picked me up there when I was a big sexy beast in the meat market for 20 year olds.. Guess you could now make a case that we have a kid that wouldn't be around except for touchstone.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Oct 5, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
My history is fuzzy... Didn't the Melvins buy City Rock from Peter Mayfield before Mission Cliffs every existed? Or am I incorrect about that transition.

At least I remember being a member at City Rock before going to MC.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
Went to City Rock a few times...used to travel to the area a fair bit.

Ironworks was fun, and, going out afterwards was too (!).


Good times!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 5, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
Brian...I recognize half of the people in your photo, but I doubt I would today, and there would be 2x as many of them too. Do you ever swing through anymore? Good times.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Oct 6, 2015 - 07:04am PT
hey five thirty you actually are ruining everything. Oh well, enjoy the gym braj!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 6, 2015 - 09:02am PT
I am ecumenical in my climbing gyms... and not a member of any one (as I don't climb in gyms enough to justify a membership)...

my favorite Touchstone Gym story has to do with meeting Jaybro at The Great Western Power Company in Oakland and climbing with John Bachar, who was there to give a slide show.

Jaybro and I were nursing a number of injuries, we arrived early and started a grade pyramid... easy to hard. I think Jay couldn't raise his left arm above his shoulder without pain, I'm sure I had some back issue at the time.

Anyway, somewhere around 5.10a John arrives. We give him beta about parking his car and the possibility that it would be broken into... after some adjustments he came back and was ready to do some gym climbing.

The first order of business was a disclosure of injuries... he had just gotten back from a groin strain caused by dropping off of a boulder problem. He was incredulous that the boulderers at the place were just dropping off the high points.

We started in on 5.10b...oops, John had forgotten his belay device (did he have one?) we decided it would be OK for him to use a Munter Hitch.. this was funny because he didn't have a "belay card" for Touchstone, and the manager of this particular venue was known to be a stickler for such things. But by now we were contained in the "Bubble of Celebrity" (BoC). The climbers recognized me, and Jaybro, and John (of course) and were somehow not able to come up and say "Hi!" This included people I knew very well, who had come to climb and then to see the show.

5.10c had us talking about our chronic body pain issues... three old men complaining... but none of the gym "belay police" made a peep about John's "belay device," the BoC seemed to be protecting us from their gaze.

On 5.10d I made it up about 2/3rds of the route... our rule was to lower on the first fall... Jaybro went up and made a couple moves more, then John, who gracefully let go after a couple of more moves beyond Jay's highpoint.

That was it, time was getting short... but John wanted to lead a route. We hadn't brought a lead rope, but no problem, we asked someone if we could use their's... "This is great, I can say John Bachar lead on my rope!" exclaimed the lender.

The BoC was in full force, John hadn't been "lead tested" nor had I, the belayer... up he went, though confused about the multi-colored tape path... making the top and lowering off.

Climbing was done and it was time to get ready for the show.

Dave Yerian showed up at some point, and though John and Dave were allowed to stay, the manager kicked Jaybro and I out while they setup... John protested "they are my security team!" but to no avail.

The show went off wonderfully, lots of Bay Area climbers in attendance...

...it turned out to be the last time I met with John, a great memory.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 09:42am PT
Working at Mission Cliffs was my first and last "real" job. I worked behind the front desk from around when they opened till 97 ish. Also called people when their memberships were past due. Wonder how many folks here I ran into during that time? Any folks who were going there 1995-1998?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
phylp - Mission Cliffs opened first. Then Touchstone bought Cityrock and the opened Ironworks down the street and closed cityrock.

One lifehack that maybe not everyone else knows about: you can join Touchstone and get free crossfit. Many crossfit gyms are double the price... and don't come with climbing walls, weights, yoga...
FTOR

Sport climber
CA
Oct 6, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
i alway get busted for not belaying like you're supposed to, then i noticed melvin in the other day and he's belaying just the same, like any other experienced climber would. they didn't seem to bother him.

just got a 20 year anniversary gift pack from them so been there a while. was a charter member of city rock before. city rock was open well before mc. while not the first indoor climbing gym, i believe the first to open on the model of artificial walls with modular bolt on holds. i know peter is on this site on occasion, wonder if he has any regrets with how the gym world turned out.
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Oct 6, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
Hey Chris - I can't remember the year Mark bought Class 5 in San Rafael, but for awhile it was also part of the Touchstone family. Funky little gym, but it was home for a bunch of us Marin climbers. Wish they could find another location on this side of the bay!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
Hey Brock , yeah class 5 was the first place I ever climber at a friends birthday party. I was 14. Forget how long after that I met you there. Loved that lil' gym. Hopefully another location in Marin will pop up.
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Oct 6, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
Is this where McClenahan went to after leaving Sonora?
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Oct 6, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
Climbed a lot at the Bay Area and Sac gyms over the years. Great people, friendly vibe. The Sac bouldering area is cool, always stop in when I'm down off the hill visiting friends. Saw Honnald there last time cruising routes.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Oct 6, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
Mission Cliffs opened first. Then Touchstone bought Cityrock


So Mission Cliffs must be older than 20 years then, as I have a City Rock lead belay card from 1991, 24 years ago.

Regardless, they are all excellent gyms. I think MC is my favorite of their's. Go climbing and then get a good taco from the taco truck. Or if you're feeling flush with cash, go for dinner at Flour + Water down the street. Feeling skinny, head down to Humphrey Slocombe for some very fattening ice cream. Now I've made myself hungry...
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