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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2015 - 01:13am PT
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At long last , moves are a foot to produce a totally brilliant book about Aus climbing great ...KIM CARRIGAN ....
If anyone here .... such as Tarbuster , Mike Graham , etc , have any unpublished pics or short recollections about Kim , then please post here or on Chockstone ...
I have read a few threads on this site and it seems Kim caused quite a stir when he introduced hangdogging to America ... he also did the 2nd ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall , ... and first complete free ascent of the Rostrum ? ...
Apparently he wrote an article about yanks being wankers or something ... which led to the Kim vs Valley Boys thing .... can someone PLEASE find and post that article
CHEERS !!!!
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=127145&Replies=5&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 12, 2015 - 02:23am PT
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Way cool.
After climbing a bit in Australia, Carrigans name is everywhere.
Didnt know he did the first full free ascent of the Rostrum.
and the PO in a group of 4 with Greg Child, Darryl Hatten, and Eric Weinstein in '77.
Mad props to Kim Carrigan. Too bad he didnt get the FA of the Ring Route.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 12, 2015 - 02:30am PT
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I did Black Rose on Middle with him in 79 or 80. A day I'll never forget. What an incredible guy and personality! We swung leads, but I was sure glad he led the crux pitch!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 12, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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Black Rose: another good one that got away, darn. I bet that was a good day on the stone Bruce!
I don't have any photographs of Carrigan. I think Kim doing a book is a great idea. Fits right in there with the market for autobiographies by people like Ron Fawcett and Jerry Moffat.
My best recollections of Kim are on this site, at least in rough form. I'm sure they could be improved upon if deemed worthy.
Valley Syndrome by Jeff Smoot is a nifty companion piece to the Carrigan article. Was Kim's article titled Americas Cup or some such?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 12, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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Live radio interview featuring a short passage from me about Kim Carrigan.
Full-length audio:
go to 27:20 - 30:00
http://www.soundcloud.com/climbtalk/roy-mcclenahan-1-16-2015
also on youtube between 12:10 and 15:00
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7DBdYW07cQ&list=PLS8KnllkXQhBTXPFW1svb_S4tk7ENFGU6&index=2
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Here's my stuff from a Supertopo search:
I climbed Hotline with Kim Carrigan in 1980 and at that time he predicted that many of the greats wall climbs in Yosemite and those of El Capitan particularly, would go free. I said to him: "even the PO?" He said yes. I was skeptical; it's happening, of course not on the PO, yet.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2110264&msg=2114259#msg2114259
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During the high season of 1980, it [Astroman] seems it was getting done once a week.
Kim Carrigan was hiking over there with his binoculars to watch parties work their way up the route. He gave us beta.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1856207&msg=1857438#msg1857438
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Ditto on the [Hotline] traverse.
The 11 plus crack leading up to it is pretty burly.
Definitely not 5.12 as a walk across on the dyke, but very delicate and I remember reaching low for a rurp scar to help myself complete a final step through.
I did this in 1980 swinging leads with Kim Carrigan; this was before he got all Valley Syndrome on us...
(or did we do it to him) !!!
He got a little greedy and having led the crux also climbed the first few body lengths of the long hand crack after completing the traverse. That hand crack pitch is glorious if easy; when you see people doing it from afar they really cruise. [edit 8/12/2015] *he did this so I wouldn't swing so severely if I came off of the traversing crux.
The 10D flair has really no resemblance to typical wide: it's basically very delicate bombay chimney climbing with as I remember a long thin edge on one side for the feet.
At the final pitch, I remember bragging to Kim about how I grew up doing thin slab climbing and as I started off on the lead, promptly fell off on the 10A move right by the bolt!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=836851&msg=841235#msg841235
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Carrigan wrote an article, generally calling the Valley locals a bunch of myopic, xenophobic, flyweight, deli-bound wankers.
Then he did that America's Cup thing on the Cookie.
There's more good stuff, but as I've already shown, I don't have a mind like a steel trap for such anecdotes.
He sort of championed this whole idea of the poor sportsmanlike California-centric behavior of which Bob speaks. Perhaps somebody could post up the article; I think it had a picture of him doing the Rostrum roof in Harlequin inspired Lycra.
Anyhow, I liked him, we climbed Hotline together in '80, before the big dustup. (He lead the crux)...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=588524&msg=593138#msg593138
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I'll take a time trip to the Arapiles in the early 80's, when Carrigan, The Sheperd bro's and their sis Louise, and Mike Law were mixing Punk, Lycra, & 40's gangster attire with all kinds of audacious behavior, thrilling routes, and creative merriment.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=297204&msg=298049#msg298049
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Carrigan came to this country and instituted hangdogging; a big uproar ensued,
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=231718&msg=234252#msg234252
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Fully peeled outa' that pup [Waverley Wafer],
Owing to said creeper pump.
Carrigan happened to be there gettin' a snap shot.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=225646&msg=226478#msg226478
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Well, this has happened before, back when Kim Carrigan climbed America’s Cup on the Cookie and that whole hullabaloo about the insular and xenophobic nature of quite a few Valley locals. I recall Mark Chapman was quite disappointed that our legacy had been spun down that low, because he relished the time when the Europeans came and shared in the exploits and he was able to encourage international participation. I climbed with Carrigan before all of that and had a great time with him, and that’s how I remember him. If people feel pushed into a corner, they will often push back, yes -no surprise.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=220133&msg=222713#msg222713
Good luck with the project and best to Kim!
Roy
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
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>>>Good luck with the project...
Tarbuster ... u r da man !!!
I love the Kim - Louise story u did on radio
I never knew about the Kim vs Valley Boys thing , until recently ... and hope u or one of ur mates ... errrr .... pals .... can dig up the valley syndrome and americas cup articles ....
Kim Carrigan was truly one of australias greatest ' stone masters '
CHEERS
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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>>>Way cool.
>>>After climbing a bit in Australia, Carrigans name is everywhere.
Far too many ppl in aus simply do not know the significance of Kim in his own country ....let alone what he got up to over seas
>>>and the PO in a group of 4 with Greg Child, Darryl Hatten, and Eric >>>Weinstein in '77.
Kim led the crux ....and got in trouble with the other guys for forgetting the grass or something .... its all in greg childs pacific ocean cruise article ... great read...
>>>Mad props to Kim Carrigan. Too bad he didnt get the FA of the Ring >>>Route.
Ring route totally changed everything for Kim ... probably burns his ass to this day .... hoping the book will be an exorcisim for him ...
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2015 - 11:16pm PT
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>>>What an incredible guy and personality!
Still is ... more ppl need to discover this bloke ... this book project should do the trick ...one of the best yet to be told stories ....
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 12, 2015 - 11:38pm PT
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Have heard great things, not too many yanks that could actually cup his balls.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 13, 2015 - 12:20am PT
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Would anyone actually be interested in my best recollection of my Black Rose climb with Kim?
I'm sure it may differ from his memory, it was a long time ago. But we did the thing, and it was difficult, sporty, and stout. There are good moments, and it was a helluva day!!
Imaserious, maybe you don't realize how significant it is to see Tarbuster on this site these days. You really hit a nerve with this one!!
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2015 - 12:28am PT
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>>>Would anyone actually be interested in my best recollection of my Black >>>Rose climb with Kim?
Absolutely !!! BRING IT ON !!!
>>>I'm sure it may differ from his memory...
Thats the point ...Kim needs the fresh perspectives to reactivate his brain ..
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2015 - 01:15am PT
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>>>Have heard great things, not too many yanks that could actually cup his balls....
OMG ...
:D
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 13, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
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Pacific ocean cruise!
Where can I get a link to this article by Greg Child???
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Aug 14, 2015 - 01:05am PT
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I've got a postcard of Carrigan on the Rostrum Roof around here somewhere...
In the mean time, found the same on Google:
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terryl
Trad climber
south lake tahoe ca
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Aug 27, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Not climbing related,but a good Kim story. I lived in Brisbane in the mid 80's / early 90's and the house I was renting had one of the few home climbing walls. Kim was coming over to climb one night and all the guys were super psyched to train with him.
After a short while I quietly went inside to watch the tv show LA Law. There were no VCR's or DVR's back then and admittedly I was hooked on it and enjoyed seeing American shows once in awhile.
Some of the guys and my ex husband knew what I was up to and were stunned that I would stop climbing / training with Kim to watch an American TV show. Shortly after Kim comes inside for something and sees me watching it. He promptly sits on the couch with me and
says - cool, my wife and I love this show. Mind if I watch with you?
I thought the guys were going to kill me, but I still get a good laugh thinking about it. I hope he's doing well.
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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>>>I hope he's doing well.
He's doing very well
http://www.westendmagazine.com/sol-breads/
We just have to convince him to do the book .... then he will be wonderfully well cos it will do him so much good to share his story ...
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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>>>I did Black Rose on Middle with him in 79 or 80. A day I'll never forget. >>>What an incredible guy and personality! We swung leads, but I was sure >>>glad he led the crux pitch!
survival ...PLEASE... write up a brief but JUICY trip report on this .... we need it for the book project ...
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imaserious
Big Wall climber
melbourne
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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>>> I grew up with photos of him and Gullich in Mountain Magazine. Awesome.
The book will be TOTALLY awesome
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Aug 30, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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All I know about the man is that his Arapiles guidebook is a classic. Hilarious comments, great route descriptions.
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