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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 19, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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What would you do with a total newbie? 5.14 hula hooper. Built like Lynn.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
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Generator Crack, Ahab, Enema Crack and the Lost Arrow Chimney in that order. Notice that I saved the multi pitch for after some appropriate warm ups.
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bob
climber
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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Return to the Stone Age.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 07:24pm PT
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Whoa now fellas. She's a newbie. She might even be in converse's and a swami.
And Jim, she needs to meet you.
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bob
climber
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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Mudshark to sunrise special above cascade falls.
Mudshark is a 5.8 Yosemite breather to warm up then mega jug cranking with some run outs but very manageable. Awesome setting.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
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Just hike up the mist trail ......
Now that you've been inspired start out on some easy warm ups.
Phoenix, Tales of Power, Phantom then to sprint up the Nose ......
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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What time of year? And how new?
Obvious stuff if she's completely new: Swan Slab to be within instructing range going over the basics. Monday Morning Slab or Sunnyside Bench to gain a little elevation if you can get her belay-ready, or if you're comfortable soloing 5.4. If by the end she's gung-ho for a Grade III (which will probably become a Grade IV) Royal Arches or Snake Dike.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
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I was just out at Pat and Jack the other day and on the far right side of the main wall was some newer looking really easy short clip ups if you are looking for shorter/easier. You could throw in the grack center, or something on the cookie sheet or monday morning slab in the middle of the week perhaps also. The regular route at sunnyside bench and scramble to the pools might also be a good choice. But yeah, more specifics would help.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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How about a kiss boy?
20 and athletic with no climbjng background.
Day 1.El Cap Base, delectable, pine line.
Day 2. Swan Slabs, Falls Trail
Day3. Mirror Lake , Bishops Terrace
Day 4. Manure Pile
Day 5. Commitment, Little Yosemite Valley
Day 6. Half Dome
Day 7 Royal Arches.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Starting someone with no climbing background on a Yosemite 5.7 crack seems a bit rough, imo (even assuming you were joking about the Cons). I wouldn't even start someone in a gym on a 5.7. I'd bump Swan Slabs to Day 1, and see how she does. I see the appeal to start on something cooler, but better to start with a little slow pitch that ends up being too easy than to burn her out on the experience right out the gate.
2¢
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 19, 2015 - 08:36pm PT
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Me too. I'd save El Cap till she can truely appreciate it.
Day 1. Swan Slabs, Falls Trail
Day 2. Mirror Lake , Bishops Terrace
Day 3. Manure Pile
Day 4. Commitment, Little Yosemite Valley
Day 5. Half Dome
Day 6. Royal Aches
Day 7. El Cap, Delectable, Pine Line, Ahab?, First pitch of Salathe Wall
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Mar 19, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
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What would you do with a total newbie? 5.14 hula hooper. Built like Lynn. Handcuff her to the (lodge, housekeeping or tent cabin) bed.
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
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Good points. Well refined there Big Mike. I like.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 19, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
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Half dome via snake dyke right ?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Handcuff her to the (lodge, housekeeping or tent cabin) bed.
+1 :))))
Commitment to Sellangenella with a continuation hike to the top of Yosemite Falls, or no hike, could be a really fun day. Or Munginella/Surprise to Sellangenella. All are fun.
Snake Dike could be a great day out. But in my opinion Royal Arches would not be as fun when you have to pitch out all the 3/4th class. But that's up to you!
If you think she can actually climb 5.9 I would do regular route up the Upper Cathedral Spire. If she can't the Lower Spire has a 5.4 route. Very romantic ;)
Nutcracker should be fine for someone new to follow, especially if she is built like L. Hill.
Pine line is a good idea for some day with 1st pitch of Salathe and Sacherer Cracker maybe? If she could follow those, Central Pillar of Frenzy!
Apron has a few good climbs any newbie can do, like the Grack. Cool views of the Valley from there. Could do that and hike to Mirror Lake. Or Nevada Falls/Vernal Falls, unless you guys do Snake Dike, than you will hike by those anyway.
Ejesta is great 5.8 I thought with cool views and there is other stuff in the area. Like that chimney on the other side of Reed's direct could be fun for her. It is not a squeeze. Can work on OW technique on Chingando. Five and dime next door, has a few cool 5.8-9 single pitch climbs.
If she is killing it, go up the East Buttress of Middle?! There is a new rap route you can do with a 70 M rope which will allow you to not feel as committed. Research it, I have not done the rap route, can't comment. But the outing would be super!
Interesting...seems like for all the size, the valley has only a few classics that people can really recommend. Quite sad.
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John M
climber
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:31am PT
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the valley has lots of classics. Just not for first time climbers..
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Cookie Sheet is nice - decent rock and sufficiently low-angle. That or Swan Slab Gully area should give you a good indication of her aptitude.
I should add, though, that I took my brother-in-law, who has never been climbing before or since, up Royal Arches sandwiched between my regular climbing partner and me, with one 50 meter rope and perhaps 4 each of first-generation stoppers and hexcentrics. We had no problems whatsoever.
John
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jstan
climber
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Mar 20, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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That a woman was willing to commit to a new seven day long experience, tells you something. She wants to spend time with you. And she most fears that she will be unable to please you. She thinks you want to climb. Even if she is terrified of heights she will try to continue thinking you require it of her. You need to do three things.
0. Avoid having her fail. Failure is the Black Death.
1. Give her the impression you are doing exactly what you want to do.
2. Watch her carefully and do only the things she wants to do.
Men are not good at this. But if when it is all over you find you enjoyed the hell out of it, you have a winner.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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jstan, you speak with great profundity (as usual). 32 years ago, I took my then-fiancee climbing. The first day, we fooled around Swan Slab Gully, where she had no problem running up 5.7 slabs and easy chimneys.
The next day we went up Cathedral Peak, and she marched right up the climb until she froze on the final pitch when I was belaying from the summit, and out of her sight. I feared I'd made the worst mistake of my life, but coaxed her to the top. From that I learned that even though she might be frightened, she'll pull herself together and do what needs to be done. She's demonstrated that quality many times since. As one of her patients wrote last week to her employer, "She's a keeper."
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 20, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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tenaya peak seems to be a perfect beginners route unless she doesn't like the height.
Depends when their trip is, Toulumne could be great. But I have to disagree about Tenaya as a good first route for a beginner. It is about 2000 ft of scrambling with one or two pitches of climbing for your typical efficient beginner, but for a total beginner with no systems set up and need for pitching everything out, it would be a nightmare of a day for Flip Flop, kind of like Royal Arches but bigger, IMO. Id say things like Cathedral Peak are much better. Shorter climb, more climbing fun. Just right for a beginner. Those pinnacles across are super fun to.
Matthes crest could be more problematic because of all the traversing, and long stretches of 3-4th class. When it comes to climbing with complete beginners I usually think not much traversing, not much technical scrambling and 3-7 pitches in length. Depending on the climber, their fitness etc. I think Snake Dike is good because there is not much technical climbing on it and it would be super fun and quick to TR for the follower. Summiting HD is great too and it is higher up, so not as hot as the Valley. As long as both of you are in ok hiking shape. Eh just some thoughts...
0. Avoid having her fail. Failure is the Black Death.
1. Give her the impression you are doing exactly what you want to do.
2. Watch her carefully and do only the things she wants to do.
Great tips. When you just start something it is nice to be challenged but not defeated.
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