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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 19, 2015 - 12:33am PT
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This thread is dedicated to a man who has being going quietly about his business for around 40 years.
300 new routes in the Mont Blanc Range!
If anybody has anything to add about Gabarrou, I'd be glad to see it.
It's going to take me a little time to get my act together on this one.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 12:59am PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Mountain 57p15
Extreme Skiing
Ever steeper faces are being descended by the extreme skiers in their high season in spring. This year, the following faces and couloirs received descents: Col de l'Aig. Verte, North Face (Frangois Villiot and Dominique Potard) - first descent; Gervasutti Couloir - regularly; Col de Peuterey, North-East Face (Marc Boivin and Patrick Gabarrou) - first descent; Aig. Blanche, North Face (Anselme Baud and Patrick Vallencant) - first descent. In order to make the last named descent Baud and Vallencant skied down the top section of the Peuterey Ridge from the summit of Mt, Blanc du Courmeyer. Finally, the North Face of the Aig. du Midi was descended for the first time by Baud, Yves Detry and Daniel Chauchefoin, at the end of May. The skiers had to abseil through a steep section at half-height to gain the lower couloir.
Mountain 60p16
Mont Blanc du Tacul
The report in Mountain 58 that the Albinoni/Gabarrou Route on the North East Face Annexe was not ED but TD is confirmed by Patrick Gabarrou. His original grade was TD inf, and it appears as such in the second edition of volume 1 of the Vallot Guide. Apart from the fast ascent by Gordon Smith and "Jeff" already reported, two French parties climbed the East Face of this peak in less than one day during September 1977. The fast times for the repeat ascents were due more to the good condition of the climb in the unusual conditions of 1977 than to the presence of the fixed rope from the previous winter on the first rock band. The ice in the upper couloir was softer than usual and so speeded climbing.
Mountain 61p14
Aiguille d'Argentiere
The West Face of the South Summit was climbed direct by Bettembourg and Michel Viernot in July. The 1,110ft route was graded TD+ (5.8). Bettembourg and Joel Coqueugniot also made a 700ft ED (5.9) climb on the South Face of the Vierge. On the North Face, a route was done to the left of the Messner line in mid-September by Patrick Gabarrou and Bernard Jouve.
Aiguille de Chardonnet
Bettembourg climbed the South Spur of the Selle (TD, 5.7). In September the brothers Patrick and Philippe Gabarrou climbed a new line on the North Face near the Feutren Couloir.
Mountain 64p16
Aiguille Sans Nom
Between the 5th and 7th August Patrick Gabarrou and Philippe Silvy climbed a direct line on the North Face. The 3,000ft mixed climb is comparable to, but harder than, the Boivin/Gabarrou line on the N Face of the Droites. The difficulties are on rock, ice and mixed ground. (See photo). The initial pillar is 1,000ft of grade V and Vl rock and was climbed in EB's with a hauling sack. The serac barrier above was climbed direct to gain the snow slope above which steepens into ice and leads to the steep top pillar where the difficulties are on mixed ground. The first bivouac was on the top of the rock pillar, the second 750ft from the summit. The pair weathered a storm on the descent, sitting it out just above the Pic Sans Nom for two days finally making the Charpoua hut on the fifth day of climbing. The net climbing time was 25-28 hours. The climb is described by Gabarrou as 'one of the finest and most varied' he has done in the Alps.
Aiguille de Talefre
The first ascent of the couloir splitting the two summits on the North West Side was made 4th June by Patrick and Philippe Gabarrou. The 2,000ft climb has many steep ice pitches. Patrick Gabarrou and Rene Ponti climbed a direct line on the North West Face on 23rd July. The climb is likened to a shorter version of the Swiss route on the N Face of the Courtes.
Aiguille du Tacul
What was probably the first ascent of a central line on the North Face was made by Maurice Bethermin and Patrick Gabarrou on 24th August. The 2,750ft climb goes up the initial good 700ft rock pillar before taking a diagonal rightward line on the upper snow slopes of the face.
Mont Maudit
Mme Brigitte Maquennehan and Patrick Gabarrou climbed a 'direttissima' on the East Face on 30th July. The 1,800ft route took 11 1/2 hours of which 1 1/2 were spent crossing the bergschrund. The major difficulties are a very steep ice wall at half height and a series of extremely steep ice runnels in the upper part of the face. The position is splendid.
Aiguille du Midi
Patrick Gabarrou, Philippe Martinez and Philippe Silvy climbed a direct line on the West Face 24/5th September. The climb is D+, with a few harder pitches, and is 3,000ft long. Starting in the centre of the face between the WNW Arete and the West Pillar the climb goes to the right of the pillar and traverses the W couloir to reach the upper 1,000ft rock buttress. The line is shown on the photo. A bivouac was made here. The buttress is climbed by the big chimney/couloir directly in line with the summit. The rock is good and there are several mixed ice pitches notably in the final couloir/chimney.
Mountain 65p13
Domes de Miage
The first ascent of a new line on the North Face of the P3630 was made on the September 24-5 by Patrick Gabarraou and Patrice Lagrange. The 4,000ft route gives varied climbing on a large and lonely face.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
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Thanks a lot Ed, It's just what the thread needed!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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Mountain 67p17
Tour Ronde
Patrick and Philippe Gabarrou climbed the mixed ground to the left of the Rebuffat Route, North West Face in 7 1/2 hours in July.
Mountain 70pp16,17
Aiguille de Talefre: North Face
Patrick Gabarrou and Maurice Bethermin climbed a new line on this face in July. 2,200ft long on mixed ground with pitches of 4 and 5, the climb took 17 hours because during the climb Gabarrou was badly injured in the shoulder after a fall.
Col des Petites Jorasses: North West Face
Patrick Gabarrou and Paul Michod climbed the 60-70 degree, ice runnel on this face on July 1st.
The four hour climb, best done early in the season, permits the Aiguille de leschaux to be climbed entirely on snow/ice from the northern side.
Mont Maudit: East Face
Patrick Gabarrou and Bernard Muller climbed the Androsace Couloir. The 2,000ft climb took 6 hours. The climbing is mixed, mostly icy, with one pitch of 80 to 90 degrees. D sup.
Aiguille du Geant
Patrick Gabarrou and Bernard Muller climbed the steep ice gully on the North Face in June. From a bivouac at the foot of the face the 1,800ft climb took 11 hours with several pitches between 65 and 75 degrees and one 'vertical and overhanging' pitch. TD.
Aiguille de la Republique: North Face
The first solo ascent of the North Gully (between the Welzenbach and Bouchard Routes) was made in poor conditions, necessitating self-belaying, by Patrick Gabarrou.
Breithorn: North Face
Patrick Gabarrou and Maurice Bethermin climbed a new line on the North Face of the West Summit in early October. Conditions were described as 'quasi-winter'.
Mountain 71p16
Aiguille du Ghardonnet: North West Face
Jean-Paul Michod and Patrick Gabarrou climbed a new line between the 1977 Gabarrou line and the Bettembourg/Charlet Gully. The climb is on mixed terrain and described as of 'middling difficulty, safe and worthwhile'.
Grands Charmoz
Patrick Gabarrou soloed a new line at the left-hand side of the North Face. The North Gully. leading almost to the foot of the Aiguille de la Republigue has difficulties on rock. snow and ice; the climb was done in 7 1/2 hours in bad conditions in mid-July.
Breithorn: North Face
As well as the ascent on the West Summit (Mountain 70) Patrick Gabarrou and Pierre Alain Steiner climbed the obvious gully in the line of the Central Summit. The ice and mixed climb, 2,250ft long, took 7 1/2 hours in mid September. It is described as 'entirely subject to serac fall'.
Mountain 76p16,
Petites Jorasses
The first all female ascent of the West Face, Contamine Route, was made by Polish climbers Aquiescka Smolska and Maria Slensk in 17 hours August 1/2.
On the North Face Patrick Gabarrou and Alexis Long climbed the Hanging Glacier and steep ice gulleys to the East Summit in 12 hours in mid May.
Barre Des Ecrins
Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny made the first ascent of the Ice Gully on the South Face. July 31.
Mountain 77pp12,13
Ebnefluh
Patrick Gabarrou and Pierre-Alain Steiner climbed a new line on the North Face of the West Summit, 25th September. They report a good route mainly on ice.
Weisshorn
Patrick Gabarrou, Henri Roquette and Pierre-Alain Steiner climbed a new direct line on the North East Face, 16th September. It is reported to be a fine line on this magnificent Ice Face.
Lyskamm
Patrick Gabarrou and Pierre-Alain Steiner climbed a new route on the North Face, West Summit between the Diemberger-Stefan and the Hiebeler-Pokorski, 19 September. The 3,000ft route presents difficulties on rock and mixed before rejoining the Diemberger-Stefan 700ft from the summit. The same pair also made the first ascent of a central line tackling the great rock band which divides the 2 1/2 mile wide North Wall, October 4/5. The 3,000ft route gives varied climbing on mixed ground and generally solid rock. The North Face atmosphere is heightened by the presence of the Seracs which seem to surround the rock band.
Aiguille de Blaitiere
Patrick Gabarrou, Philippe Silvy and Pierre-Alain Steiner attempted the deep central rock gully on the West Face. The poor rock forced them out to the right to re-join the Rebuffat Route. They do not recommend the experience.
Mountain 80p15
Mont Maudit
First ascent of the South Face of the North Shoulder was made by Patrick Gabarrou and Pierre Alain Steiner. The 2000ft climb took 6 1/2 hours, early June 1981.
Mountain 82pp12,13,14
Lonzahorner
First ascent of the North West Face by Mme Claude Piguet, Alain Steiner and Patrick Gabarrou. Beginning of July.
Biestchorn
Gabarrou and Steiner made the first ascent of the East Couloir, early July.
Finsteraarhorn
Gabarrou and Steiner also made the first ascent of this mountain's East Couloir in early July.
Fletschorn Oriental
Jean-Michel Asselin and Patrlck Gabarrou made the first ascent of a direct line on the North Face on June 20 in 8 hours.
Lanteraahorn
The Gabarrou and Steiner team with Alexis Long made the first ascent of the Central Couloir, North East Face in July.
Mont Velan
A Direct line on the North Face was climbed by Lise Meillan and Pascal Girault with Patrick Gabarrou on the 25th August.
Dent d'Herens
Patrick Gabarrou and Romain Vogler put a new line on the North west face on August 16th. It is an ice gully at 50/55 with one steeper pitch leading to easier slopes above, located between the West Ridge on the left and an ice fall on the right. The climb as a whole is D- and took 2 1/4 hours from the bergschrund. it is 2,400ft long.
Aiguille Verte
Patrick Gabarrou and Romain Vogler climbed the "Direct Route of the North Triangle" a 2,000ft high rock spur between the Cordier and Couturier couloirs. The climb is 15 pitches long, sustained at 1V+ and V with moves of V+, one ice pitch, and some icy rock here and there. The rock is generally very good and compact. Protection from friends, stoppers and a few pegs. Climb done of course in E.Bs. August 29/30. 11 1/2 hours for the spur, bivy on its top and exit on the next morning. The route as a whole is TD and recommendable since it is direct, safe and varied.
Mountain 89p14
Mont Blanc: Brouillard Arete
Patrick Gabarrou and Alain Steiner made the first ascent of the Super-Couloir situated above the Eccles bivouac between the Brouillard pillars and the classic Innominata face. They started the climb at 9 o'clock at night and climbed overnight finding good frozen conditions;they arrived on the summit 19 hours later grading
the climb ED-.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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Outstanding work Ed and Avery!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2015 - 04:08am PT
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Thanks Ed, for all your hard work.
I've been busy trying to get some personal accounts: no joy so far. The language barrier doesn't make it any easier!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 21, 2015 - 04:46am PT
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It is as if my cardboard box had never washed away in a storm they called Sandy.
I used to keep all my copies of Mountain in that box. The collection I was so proud of that I wanted to keep it safe from Gunks rats who could not read, never mind pronounce the French, as in all communal living things walked so that I took the box to a safe location to gather dust while I gathered miles and time on the rocks,
Thank you both for the threads and words you share good spring to all
and Avery and Ed most of all, please the years from 68' to 88 were so formative for what the kids do now that it severs ghosts and the living with smiles and goals , keep scanning and posting.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 21, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Mountain 106pp13/14
Mont Blanc (4807m)
On June 2 Patrick Gabarrou, Wilfried Colonna and Carlo Stratta made the first ascent of the Gaston Rebuffat Route up the centre of the triangular rocky face right of the Tournette Spur coming out by the rocks of the Tournette on the Bosses Arete at 4670m. The climb gives a particular appreciation of the immense Miage face of Mont Blanc.
L'lnominette takes a gully of 750m on the side of the ridge Inominette. Starting at 3900m, it follows steep gullies and ice falls to the summit ridge. Climbed by Patrick Gabarrou and Alexis Long on the 9th of July.
North West Pillar of the Petites Jorasses (3650m)
On the left of the Contamine Route, P. Gabarrou and Herve Bouvard did a new route on August 21 dedicated to Roger Baxter Jones. (900m TD) It gave climbing on good rock, sustained with some 66 pitches. It is not fully equipped. Descent was made by, a series of 50m abseils.
Mountain 107p12
Serra dos Órgãos
A French expedition composed of Patrick Gabarrou, Alexis Long, Yannick Seigneur and Serge Koenig, joined by local climber Predrag Pancevski (and friends of his who helped the group to carry their many heavy packs of gear), attempted the virgin Southwest Face of Garrafão but retreated after the first 60 metres. Lack of previous reconnaissance and disagreement among the members of the party (Yannick and Serge versus the rest) seem to be the main reasons for their desistance.
Mountain 109p20
On Mont Maudit, Patrick Gabarrou and Herve Bouvard did the first winter ascent of the Directissime on the East Face. They climbed the 600m route in 12h, and on March 21 Gabarrou, Dominique Marquis and Wojteck Gala (from Poland) did the first winter ascent of a route between the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses, a route that P. Gabarrou and J. P. Michaux first climbed in 1978.
Between the Central Pillar and the North Pillar of Freney, on the south face of Mont Blanc, Patrick Gabarrou and Frangois Marsigny climbed a new route in May 84.
Mountain 111p17
Mont Blanc
...Some time later, on Friday 8 August 1986, the first ascent of Eperon Rocheuses Rouges Superior, on the north side of Mont Blanc, was made by Patrick Gabarrou, J. M. Asseline and H. Bouvard. The route, 400m long, involved four and a half hours of mixed climbing before the party arrived on the summit at 1 pm. This climb was a celebration of the bicentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc.
Petit Dru
On the North Face of the Petit Dru, Patrick Gabarrou and Alexis Long made the first ascent of the Directissima on 6 August. The route is situated to the left of the Niche on the North Face and runs directly to the summit for 800m. It cuts across the Lesueur Route (done in 1952) and the Guides Route (Yannick Seigneur and Claude Geiger in 1966) - a steep and difficult climb, giving free climbing in the order of 6/7a and some pitches of artificial climbing. The climb is dedicated to Jean-Claude Bertrand who was Gabarrou's best friend until killed in'75 by rock fall at the foot of Gervasutti.
Grandes Jorasses
Patrick Gabarrou and Herve Bouvard made the first ascent of a 1200m directissima, between the Walker Spur and the route Rolling Stones. The climb took five days, with steep sections at 6c, 7a and some pitches of A1 and A2.
West Face of Leschaux
Patrick Gabarrou and Jean Michel Poncet made the first ascent of a 700m direct route on the West Face. The route has no difficulties above 6c.
Mountain 114p12
Annapurna 1 (8091m)
...Meanwhile, Patrick Gabarrou apparently broke from another small French party to climb a new line on the NW Face with Sherpa Pemba Norbu which culminated in the unclimbed spur, Annapurna 1 SW (ca 7850m). The route was achieved alpine style over eight days up and down.
Mountain 118p6
Routes Climbed without Inspection
Mont Maudit
Three new lines on the South and East Faces, one of which has the best series of runnels and ice falls in the massif.
In June, Laurent Broisin and Patrick Gabarrou first of all did a new route on the South Face, the Carroz d'As. In July, in the centre of the East Face, Patrick Gabarrou and Philippe Pibarot put up the Eperon Central, a line on very good rock not exceeding 5+, to the right of the Couloir de l'Androsace.
Lastly, perhaps giving the best example of how rotten the summer was, Patrick Gabarrou and Franqois Marsigny did a new one day ascent, Dom, in the middle of August - a magnificent series of eight ice falls (six of which were inescapable). This climb, dedicated to Dominique Radigue, is one of the hardest and most beautiful in the area.
Valais - North Face of the Liskamm (Monte Rosa Massif)
On 14th August 1986 Patrick Gabarrou and Pascal Girault made an inauguration ascent of the large arete under the serac barrier (just to the left of the Gabarrou/Steiner route). A really fine route.
Valais - Mont Blanc de Cheillon
A direct ascent of the North Face crossing the serac barrier was made by Patrick Gabarrou and Jean-Marie Fesseler in May 1987.
Valais - Wandfluehorn, South Face
The day after the collapse of the classic route on the South Face, Patrick Gabarrou, Pascal Girault and Alexis Long put up a new rock route on this beautiful 500m high face.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 04:00am PT
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Thanks a lot Alpinist63, those links are fantastic!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Mountain 120p18
Biella Mountain Wilderness Conference
Patrick Gabarrou, the first of the three official speakers, gave the convention a pragmatic reminder that considerable benefits do reach populations of mountain areas as a result of mass tourism, skiing and the infrastructure which goes with it. It would therefore be unrealistic to propose the complete dismantling of all such infrastructure. Certainly it is necessary to halt the indiscriminate proliferation of ski lifts, especially in areas already heavily exploited. The building of new huts and the practice of heliski should also be banned. Unfortunately the speech ended with statements of principle only, and without concrete proposals: a sign of how difficult it is to fight the economic power which so often lies behind speculative developments in the mountains.
Mountain 125p15
Of political interest was the symbolic demonstration, by the Mountain Wilderness environmental group against the existence of the Vallée Blanche téléherique. Reinhold Messner, Alessandro Gogna and Roland Lasso managed to hang a banner from one of the cables, with the assistance of Patrick Gabarrou, Michel Piola and Frangois Labande.
Mountain Wilderness was set up a year ago to defend the last free places on the planet, and to stimulate awareness of mountain users to ecological problems. A committee of 21 famous climbers has been gathered to set out the organisation's aims and to establish working parties. The team comprises: Bernard Amy, Chris Bonington, Jim Bridwell, Kurt Diemberger, J. L. Fonrouge, Patrick Gabarrou, Richard Goedecke, Alessandro Gogna, John Hunt, Jerzy Kukuczka, Hamish Maclnnes, Reinhold Messner, Pat Morrow, Jiri Novak, R. Osio, C. A. Pinelli, Michel Piola, Jordi Pons, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Harun Tazieff and Lito Tejada Flores.
Linked Climbs and Ice Climbs Mont Blanc
A highly successful start to the summer for Patrick Gabarrou with a series of linked routes climbed in five days. The first stage on Friday 15th July comprised the Migot Spur on the Aiguille du Chardonnet, the North Face of the Aiguille d'Argentière, the Swiss Route on Les Courtes and the North Couloir on the Aiguille de Talèfre. Then a return to the Leschaux hut for a dawn start on Saturday 16th for the Shroud on the Grandes Jorasses. A rest day on Sunday 17th due to poor weather forecast but especially due to unavailability of media coverage. A climb up to the Torino hut on Monday 18th and finally on Tuesday 19th ascent of the North Face of the Tour Ronde and Boivin/Valleicant Couloir on the Pilier D'Angle, then the summit of Mont Blanc and return via the Dômes de Miages to Les Contamines.
Link up between the faces was on foot, but a helicopter was used for media coverage ('minimum use' according to Patrick) and a walkie-talkie in case of any hitches. Congratulations for setting a good example by wearing a helmet in the ice gulleys.
Mountain 127p18
Mont Maudit: West Face
First winter ascent of the Grassi Route,Piola/Steiner Direct, S.E. Gully (400m) (over 700m to the summit) by Patrick Gabarrou and Thierry Pastore. Cool temperatures and hard ice the order of the day.
Mont Blanc du Tacul:
First winter ascent of the Bodin/Affanasieff Gully, West Face, on 31 January of this big mixed ice and rock couloir with difficult access, first climbed 15 years ago (probably only climbed twice since). Yves Duverney, Patrick Gabarrou and Michel Vincent.
Mont Maudit: West Face
First Ascent (therefore first winter ascent) of a 500m mixed ice route, with hard rock at the top. Olivier Besson and Patrick Gabarrou.
Mountain 131p6
Valais Alps - Matterhorn N. Face
Attempt at a new route over the overhangs of the Zmutt Nose, to the right of the 1981 Piola/Steiner Direct, by Frangois Marsigny and Patrick Gabarrou. Start up the 1989 Cogna/Cerruti Couloir (the first route put up on this legendary face) then up the large central sloping glacier,60 to 100m of the original line on the face of the Nose but finishing on the Zmutt ridge on the right, due to the poor weather conditions. Helicopter media coverage.
Mountain 137p11
Gabarrou and Grassi still continue to discover those ephemeral ribbons of ice that occur during the spring. On Mont Maudit the last unclimbed couloir on the Three Gendarmes fell to Gabarrou, Gourdini and Passino on 16 May. This is the steep narrow runnel between the Central and Left pillars. It is 400m and took 11 hours which is a long time for Gabarrou so it must be hard! The August/ September edition of Vertical gives a good overview of the range with full descriptions of many of Gabarrou's new gully lines throughout recent years.
Mountain 139pp17,18
Mont Blanc Massif Aiguilles de Tré la Tête
The North East Face of this mountain, above the Miage glacier, is seamed with shattered rock spurs separated by icy couloirs. Although a thoroughly dangerous venue during the summer months, the attractions for winter alpinists are obvious. Gabarrou (who else!) with P. Gourdin and G. Passino climbed an important variation to the Marone-Stratta Couloir on the 2nd January, in 7.5 hours (750m: TD+)
Col du Midi
The West Face of this broad saddle terminates in an awesome serac barrier, which would normally make climbing in this vicinity most unattractive. The narrow couloir immediately right of the rocky spur that leads up to the northern end of the col was climbed by Gabarrou and Gourdin shortly before the New Year to give Petit Gargouille. Two weeks later, A. Long climbed the adjacent couloir which he named Grande Garguoille. Both routes had a number of vertical ice pitches in the serac barrier.
Mountain 142p13
Mont Blanc
With so much activity and competition in the massif it's inevitable that certain 'in-depth' knowledge of the area e.g. Patrick Gabarrou have (unwittingly), during the last decade, created several excellent 'first ascents' of previously climbed lines. ln an attempt to maintain some historical accuracy:-
A recent addition to the North Face of the Grand Pilier d'Angle by P Tamagnini starts up the Dufour-Frehel but then links various sections of previous routes and appears to cover little, if any, new ground. On the Freney Face, Ghersen's solo ascent of the Hidden Pillar was not the first, that accolade going to Marco Bernadi; on the Central Pillar, the first free ascent of the Original Route was achieved as long ago as 1986 by Serge Casteran. Finally, on the Aiguille de Blatiere, the modern route, Les Diamants du President (Route 140 in Piola's Topo Guide) is in fact Old Wave climbed way back in 1977 by Rick Accomazzo and Rob Muir who, incidentally, thought it of excellent quality and 'about 5.10'.
Mountain 144p7
Grands Combin
The NE side of the Combin de Tessette overlooking the Val de Bagnes is the biggest face in the Grand Combin group. There are at least three routes, up to 1200m in height, that give mixed climbing on poor, icy rock (D+/TD) To the right, the complex, continuation wall rises to a point called the Mulets de Tessette (3644m). On 25th May this previously unclimbed, 800m face was well plastered after the heavy spring snowfalls and Gabarrou, with Alexis Long, was able to make an important first ascent.
The very next day this energetic pair added an extremely fine, new route to the 900m NE Face of the Tour de Boussine (3833m). This largely icy wall lies just to the left of the Combin de Tessette and had only been breached by the 1972 route put up by Brandt, Favre and Paratte. Again, heavy icing allowed the team to pursue a very direct line to the summit.
Taschorn
Gabarrou, Marsigny and Gonzague de The made the first ascent of the 'true' N Face. At height gain of almost 3100m. Conditions were difficult and the climbers were forced to negotiate several thin ice-smears and some tricky, verglassed rock on the 600m face (TD+)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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that's what I have (unless Avery wants me to post the earlier Mountain bits... I think he's doing that...)
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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Thanks a lot Ed, I can take care of the pre-1978 stuff.
Great work!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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Avery's time machine with amazing stuff from Ed is great!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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bumping great efforts.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Mar 23, 2015 - 01:11am PT
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Gabarrou always was The Man.
Nice to see Romain Vogler's name in those Mountain Magazine excerpts. It would have been items like these that made me think he could make an OK partner for The Nose when he approached me in the parking lot back in 1984.
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steve shea
climber
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Mar 23, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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My old friend and partner for the second ascent of Bridalveil Falls, Gordon Smith, told me to do any Gabarrou route. When asking for suggestions for my first trip to the Massif, he characterized Gabarrou's routes as modern must dos. More steep ice and mixed than the then classics. He was right.
In '78 and '79 we climbed a number of his routes all high standard, really good climbing. The Boivin/Gabarrou on the Grand Pilier D'Angle/Eckpfeiler was particularly memorable.
I met Georges Bettembourg who was a relative of the Charlets. He spoke highly of the Charlet Moser 'Gabarrou Cascade'. Georges took us to the foundry and we had some Gabarrou tools custom shaped with a little more droop. From then on it was only the Gabarrous and Terrors in the hill. They were great tools,the Gabs, and very durable.
He was probably the leading French steep ice climber at the time and many of his routes are now classics. I always thought Gabarrou's ED rating was the benchmark. There was ED and Gabarrou ED.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 23, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Avery has found his niche!
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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1973
1974
1975
1976
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!