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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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Saw "Hardman Appreciation Thread". So how do YOU define a MODERN hardman? No need to post pictures of Sacherer, Donini, Bridwell or Royal. We all know they are the real deal.
In your opinion, does modern Hardman onsight 5.12 sport? Puts up ground up FAs? Can bust up your face if you call him a d#@&%e? Who are the modern hard men???
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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You'll know it's not me when you see me
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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To me, the criteria for a hardman or hardwoman haven't changed, but the level of difficulty has increased. I would define a hardperson as one who climbs at the very top levels of the sport for the medium and location involved. Thus, someone like Honnold or Tommy Caldwell - even though their climbing resumes differ - would fit my definition for contemporary Yosemite, in the way that Robbins, Sacherer, Pratt et al. did for Yosemite in the 1960's.
John
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Truly hard hard to me means proud cutting edge ascents where there is some risk involved, some real unknown.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
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Ask the ladies.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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A hardman is good to find. -- Mae West
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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In my view, a hardman or hardwoman does first ascents, ground up, on gear. A man can put up a thousand 5.13 routes bolted on rappel, and redpoint them all, and that man ain't no hardman(and a woman would never climb in that style).
A hardperson gets out there and does the research. They scout the lines, gain the access properly or stealthfully(if a route goes up in a forest and no one hears it fall....), and go get it.
They put up routes that are at the limit of their ability, whatever that grade may be. They put up some stuff that is enjoyable for others, even if it is easy for them, because the line is good.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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There are terms that climbers throw out
all good climbers are hard in a type of way
True Satus and the cred behind that 'Verve
It Is the Climbing That builds reputation
then when it happens you see it
An EPHEMERAL MOMENT
**THE CONFIDENCE THAT COMES FROM CLIMBING ALL TYPES OF ROUTES
YEARS OF DOING SAFE AND SURE ON THE STELAR HARD LINES AND FLOATING
ANY THING THAT IS CLIMBED**
. IN THE HUMILITY OF ACTIONS THE CLIMBING SHARES
THE STAGE WITH LIFE AND ALL THAT FAMILY! WORK! CLIMB! AS A WAY OF LIFE
REQUIRES. NO ONE MIX IS AN ASURERITY OF THE SWEET SPOT
INSIDE THERE IS THE MIXED EMOTIONS THAT SHARPEN AND BLUNT SENSITIVITY
SOME CLIMBERS ARE BORN "HARD" LUCKY TO COME TO CLIMBING WHEN
THEY WERE YOUNG.AND FIND A WAY TO SUSATAIN THE PASSION FOREVER
SOME HARD PEOPLE ARE OPEN AND EASY GOING AND OTHERS ARE NOT,
MUCH LESS APPROACHABLE,THEY ARE THERE FOR THE "SPOT' WHEN YOU NEED ONE.
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Top notch boulderer? Can they be considered hardmen?
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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Oct 23, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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1. climbing kit always in the car
2. upon spotting a likely crag will park in the ditch, climb
barbwire fences and ignore curious sheep and barking dogs
to inspect the stone bottom to top.
3. rehydrates with beer.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Oct 23, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
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SweetCrimp,
No. Unless the boulder is half dome.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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“A true hardman is just any tough climber who can lead (without falling) any, and I mean ANY, 5.10 or 5.11 gear route that he comes across, on sight”~Scubbing Bubbles.
Crimp, Sweety, the guys in my first post may not all re-hydrate with beer or trespass but
the bubblers quote fits the five and I might add it has been that way for many years.
(check out the 1st guys crimp It was a picture taken in august!)
Mooselose ingit
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Hard watcha ma call it ..........girl
[Photoid=383
......and also Lynn Hill of course.!!
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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No. Unless the boulder is half dome.
Photo cred: not mine
Seems bald enough to earn respect.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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Off the top of my head, one soc medic, one SEAL that was a teacher for my WEMT class and one Navy diver.
I have yet to hear a climbing epic that compares to what the guys above went through.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 23, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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ruppell
climber
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Oct 23, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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The type of climber you'd want to be with when the sh#t hits the fan. The guy that always takes the sharp end when the sh#t hits the fan. The guy that does runout climbing at his on-sight level and excels at it. The guy that looks up at a hard sequence and breezes through it a few moves later. The guy who takes a half liter of water and a windshirt for long routes. The guy that starts long routes at noon. The guy that does all that sh#t and still smiles. That guy.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 23, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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I think that there has to be an element of doing something new combined with an element of risk. Really hard boudlering somehow does not work in this equation just a gym competitions don't work.
The tough guy stuff and hard living is not necessary--most historical Hardmen were not rough-and-tumble'tough' guys: Pratt's favorite music was Mahler. Also, women can be Hardmen, although the term sounds wrong--Bev Johnson and Lynn Hill come to mind.
Mikey Schaefer is a current Hardman.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 23, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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The definition of hardman died with Ricardo Cassin, Lionel Terray, John Menlove Edwards, Walter Bonatti, Charlie Fowler, Craig Leuben, Derek Hersey and Warren Harding (since Bird is now on "probation").
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