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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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isn't Shanti the great wide hope?
she has the most serious training regime...
has put up quite a few of those "test pieces" the Wide Boyz climbed...
and is probably the climber in the best position to extend beyond the successes of the British Invasion
but actually, what's with the nationalism? regionalism? tribalism?
they did crush, even if their experience was nil in comparison to the local US crew...
on second thought, I get your point.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I'd say Pamela is! Right you are Ed! Also, have the brits done all of the hard vertical to overhanging OW's; or just the horizontal ones? There is a difference..
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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I think that there is yet to be a similar display of prowess on all types of OW...
I'd say Jaybro probably has the broadest experience... maybe he can pipe in here... at least of active OW climbers, and, of course eeyonkee...
but they aren't at the bleeding edge of the technique anymore
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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I think American boys need to learn to climb better.........
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:32am PT
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I am fine with the American girls rocking on the OW... the boys can avoid the hard work and prance if they so choose
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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I certainly prefer prancing to harrrrrd OW!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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Tom Randall is a great climber, even if he got off to an inauspicious big wall career.
He attempted a push-solo of Eagle's Way, back-cleaned too much stuff, took a long whipper, busted his only piece of not back-cleaned gear [rivet hanger] and hit the end of the rope right off his belay anchor, pretty close to a Factor 2 fall. The locker on his Grigri broke[!] and he continued another twenty feet to his backup knot.
Sustained some very nasty rope burns to his left hand, and injured his back. YOSAR helped him down.
He definitely cheated death on that one! Haven't seen him around for some time. You listening here, Tom? When are you coming back to the El Cap Bridge for some beers?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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at least of active OW climbers, and, of course eeyonkee...
but they aren't at the bleeding edge of the technique anymore
Hard to read laid out in print and all, but, alas, certainly true. At this point in my career, I could only hope for a highly-paid consultant role, like one of those former soccer players commenting on the World Cup. In fact, that would be Perfect!
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nopantsben
climber
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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maybe OW climbing was uncompetitive until the Wide Boyz hit the scene. now the situation is perfect for anyone to take the next step - if anyone want to be competitively committed to OW climbing, that is.
:-)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 16, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
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Hey cragar,
have the brits done all of the hard vertical to overhanging OW's; or just the horizontal ones? There is a difference.
When they had been in the US for a while, after spending time in Indian Creek, Zion, Vedauwoo, etc, they suggested that they were at the point where they could master any "vertical" wide crack of any size, shape, flare or orientation.
They became burned out and a bit bored with Indian Creek because that's all the Creek had, vertical cracks. People had shown them them wide crack after wide crack and they were not any kind of challenge any more.
The solution, of course, is to go hunting for even more difficult roof cracks around Canyonlands NP. There's some truly outrageous wide crack features/flares in the White Rim layer, in the gaps between those monstrous white blocks where they jut out over enormous caves and recesses, grossly undercut. No one's even been looking on the more remote parts of the White Rim Trail, the south end or over on the west side....
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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That's what I'm talking about, Crunch! We, by virtue of our greater land mass have the infinitely better local practice grounds. That's where we have it over the Brits. Oh wait, ...look who I'm talking to...nevermind.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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of course, there are still some Yosemite OW cracks for the taking...
didn't see them out in these parts.
Of course, many of them are longer than one pitch.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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isn't Shanti the great wide hope?
That was super funny Ed - well put as usual...
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
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Its probably of little consolation, but Tom Randall is originally South African. NOT a real Brit. ;-)
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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PTP Pete.. where did you hear that story?
It sounds flippin' BADASS!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
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maybe OW climbing was uncompetitive until the Wide Boyz hit the scene. now the situation is perfect for anyone to take the next step - if anyone want to be competitively committed to OW climbing, that is.
How many times have I heard that before over the years? And every time some comes in to "fill that void" they get spanked, realize it's harder than they thought and retreat to golf or something. Except of course, for Tom & Peter!
Relax, you guys, the sky is not falling. There are those of us working away... Without a press agent.... It would be interesting to see what the wide Boyz, if they were still climbing wide cracks thought of some of Pam's recent routes. Not like they had a 100% success ratio the first time....
And yes, they did speciize in roofs over vertical routes. Forever war would be a good challenge.
Grug you reactionary Troll. You ;)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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by the way, my loyalty to The Wide exceeds my nationalistic tendencies...
so I've always thought what the Wide Boyz did was bad azzzz! to the max. (And Shanti and others are included too!).
we're gonna have to find the proper foot gear for Grug, though
[Click to View YouTube Video]
maybe 5.10 can make a special run of the TC Pros... red, white and blue sued?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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Got my eye on one Dingus....
Ed, I've had "TheTalk" with Grug about the shoes... Sigh....
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jul 16, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
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WTF, that's a tired cliche.
They are all-around trad masters (not just wide). I'd like to see them do some free routes on el cap.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
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I'm for kidnapping Kate Middleton for starters. Yes?
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