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Miltch
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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ha! I need to find this guy lol
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Top Rope Anchors 101
Posted on February 7, 2014
It was an unusually warm day today and I wanted to go out climbing, but surprise, surprise, everyone who I know that climbs wasn’t picking up their phones… Anyway, I just wanted to reflect on something that happened last fall. I was at our local crag, setting up a top rope on one of the crack climbs here (this is different than most outdoor/gym climbing, because you actually stick your hands inside of the rock), and noticed there was a group top roping a route next to mine, using only 2 quick draws?! Is this normal? This did not seem safe at all. They had one quick draw on each bolt, but all of the carabiners were NON LOCKING! This doesn’t seem safe to me because its quite easy for these carabiners to unclip the rope in the event of a fall.
I believe in being “bomb proof”, so I try to make a top rope anchor that can survive a number of catastrophes, something like this:
This way, I can keep myself, and others safe, and not have to worry about the rope unclipping itself.
Please, before you go out trying to top rope, learn how to be safe first!
Be safe, have fun, “send” me your thoughts! (get it?)
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Posted on February 5, 2014
"So… as most of you know, I climbed my first 5.12 recently."
Yes! Yes!
I think I learned about it first via skywriter...
Or was it the blimp?
Or the flyer I found under my windshield?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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This could mean that if your climber falls, you wont have enough grip to catch them, or worse, could mean 4th degree burns on your hands
I try not to make fun of Noobs, but this is classic. He's talking about wearing leather gloves while belaying. Burning your hands is always worse than your partner decking.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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I said this on MP.com, and I will say it here; this blog is an elaborate troll. There is no way it is real. Read it carefully. It is GOLD, PURE GOLD!
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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This can't be for real...........can it? No, please tell me it hasn't really come to this.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
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I hope it's real, it's wonderful
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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Matt is this your blog? Good on ya
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Miltch
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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I have seen people like this... they do exist.. don't know where he's from but if it's some small isolated county in the middle of nowhere with a 40ft outcrop off rock... its possible..
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Look at the post on "Safety..."
http://rockclimbinglife.wordpress.com/page/2/
In discussing carabiners he says, "Look for ones that have screw gates for safety, like this one:"
The picture is of a carabiner with a "not for climbing" stamp.
The site is a troll, a very elaborate and well done troll.
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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This is just awesome.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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Yeah it's a troll and it got me. Funny sh#t, either way.
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Fletcher
Gym climber
A very quiet place
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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The guy in the video he posted is... ah... let me say... entertaining.
I wonder if the whole blog is a troll. It's just too consistently entertaining. To good to be true often is. ;-)
Eric
P.S. Yes, I got sucked in!
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
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certainly a fake but a very good one. The devils in the details, like how he set his own 5.12! There are some pretty funny comments on his posts, got a couple people to bite.
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Miltch
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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I often set boulder problems for myself... but usually get other people to grade them first after 3 or 4 sends. what a goon.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
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The comments people have left on some of the posts are pure gold.
I agree, best climbing site around LOL. F*#k this place is hilarious today.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 21, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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love the enthusiasm.
bit overkill on that anchor, but whatever floats yer boat.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Feb 21, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
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. I quickly excelled at the sport and found myself instructing people on such things as Top Roping, Bouldering, Knot Tying, and Safety. Recently, I have further grown as a rock climber and have taken my sport to new heights: Outside! Words cannot express how great it is to be outdoors on the rocks and being an example and inspiration to the climbing community.
GOLD
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Miltch
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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neversummer.... you're not related to Wesley Summer are you?
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