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Eminem
climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2003 - 09:38pm PT
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I was in the park for a couple of weeks this summer and dinked around a little bit. I was wondering what proud routes have been soloed in the park...onsight...
Mr. Magoo-Little Wing
Croft, Bachar, Potter...bunch of sh#t I know about
Some guy onsight soloed the DNB in the 80s?
Alex Hubris and Deany Potter onsight the Steck
Earl Wiggins did some proud stuff
Has the direct Northwest face of Lembert been soloed/Phobos/Deimos/Sorcers Apprentice/ Memo from Loyd etc...
any history or info on present day soloists would be killer
I have a goal Im working towards...maybe spring when Im strong again and some background on what routes have been soloed is useful
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 18, 2003 - 10:42pm PT
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"...I have a goal Im working towards..."
Death.
Just kidding.
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 18, 2003 - 10:46pm PT
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It was Charlie Fowler who made the free-solo of DNB in the spring of 1977.
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 18, 2003 - 11:41pm PT
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Hey brickhead, so the guy free-soloed all but a few feet of a 1600' route...good enough for me.
BTW, I understand that you are envious and jealous of me in many ways but do ALL of your posts have to be directed at criticizing me? You are a strange dude and your obsession with me is making me nervous...
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yo
Sport climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 12:50am PT
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There was a blurb in the AAJ a few years back about some crazy Brit who claimed to have soloed the Reg on HD in the early 80s or some sh#t. Eeek.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Aug 19, 2003 - 01:54pm PT
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"I have a goal Im working towards...and some background on what routes have been soloed is useful."
How so?
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Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Aug 19, 2003 - 02:36pm PT
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Everybody who is young and motivated and steps onto the path of the Samurai rockclimber free solos. It is inevitable and essential.
that's total BS!
different strokes for different folks.
climbing is all about personal satisfaction. for some people, that may not include taking risks beyond a point, and to take the obviously huge risks involved in free soloing is a very personal choice that not everone will make. don't go painting this quasi-glamorous samurai picture, that's just stupid.
During the span of a climbing career, the aspiring Samurai will face many situations that requires calmness of action. Or dire consequences. Having a background of free soloing gives a person the ability to deal with unruly situations.
or it may help you develop one type of mental tool, there are other ways to address the complex issues that you will encounter in your climbing career.
And re-check your armchair info. Charlie actually had a small sling to clip the bolt at the crux of the DNB. Does not detract one iota his accomplishment. Just- he’d tell you he soloed the thing. Not free soloed. Free solo implies no protection whatsoever. Sorry to split hairs, but you’re such a font of knowledge usually. Get your facts straight.
he has you there jody, just cause you carry a gun is no excuse to blur the lines between the two... the giants lost game 7, getting there was good enough for me, but i don't walk around saying they won the world series, do i? (no! i don't- because they didn't!)
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None
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 02:48pm PT
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"Samurai rockclimber"
Wasn't that a skit on Saturday Night Live back in the 70's?
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Mike
climber
Orange County CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 03:09pm PT
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Third classing routes has, for many climbers, been a great mental exercise since climbing has been.
Take the lead from all those heros you cited, Eminem - do you think they consulted with the climbing community before they completed their projects?
As Brick said, it's a quiet thing. Nearly everone that does it has a better sense of discretion and personal motivation than to blabber about it - especially before they do it. For the more impressionable visitors of the forum, maybe you should mention Derek Hersey and Troy Johnson.
Go do your project then post some beta about the route instead of proposing how brazen you hope to be when you "get strong".
Cheers,
Snoop Doggy Dog, er, I mean Mike
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 05:46pm PT
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"he has you there jody, just cause you carry a gun is no excuse to blur the lines between the two... the giants lost game 7, getting there was good enough for me, but i don't walk around saying they won the world series, do i? (no! i don't- because they didn't!)"
What in the Sam Hill does a gun have to do with this argument. You are obseessed with guns. You and brickhead. People that are obsessed with guns scare me. Why so much talk about guns? By the way, I never claimed to be an expert on the free-solo exploits of anyone. I figured if Pat Ament called Fowlers ascent a free-solo then I would too. I pulled the info from one of Pat's books to help out the poster on this thread that asked the question. I couldn't care less whether you think I "blurred the lines" or "spray from the ground" or whatever else you are babbling about.
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Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Aug 19, 2003 - 05:58pm PT
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What in the Sam Hill does a gun have to do with this argument. You are obseessed with guns.
that's rich jody!
i suspect it comes across as pure comedy to most that you are constantly plastering gobs of useless gun toting rambo style weapon images here in a climbing forum and then, seemingly out of the other side of your mouth, reacting defensively when people hold that up on occasion to poke some fun at you...
if you don't want the girls at the pool to giggle about all your back hair, keep your shirt on.
btw- (and speaking of those who are obsessed w/ guns being the scary ones...)
how selective does that one picture of the iraqi kissing the picture of gW seem to you today, throuh the prism of a couple of months of time on the ground?
you remember- the one you posted in this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=17961#msg18192
and say, where are all those nasty WMDs?
and what happened to the liberated welcoming the liberators w/ open arms?
and how stoked are our soldiers to be over there these days?
might as well be riding a damn bus in jerusalem...
not to worry, once we funnel all the iraqi assets we can to a few select huge corporations, we will be out of there lickity split- just like we were when afganistan became kinda unsexy...
osama bin who?
oh, never mind...
so you voting for arnold or bill?
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dave
climber
Oceanside
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Aug 19, 2003 - 06:25pm PT
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huh?
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 08:56pm PT
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"Except when you slip into gumby mode. Like when you spray from the ground about what is happening off the deck. When you've never been there. Like free soloing, perhaps."
I quote directly from Pat Ament: "Charlie Fowler made a stunning free-solo of Yosemite's 1600-foot DNB (Direct North Buttress) of Middle Cathedral Rock."
Go ahead, tell Pat he's full of crap too.
I will continue to offer what knowledge of climbing history I can glean from my extensive library when people ask for it. And you(brickhead and Matt) will continue to get your jollies by attempting to make me look bad and by personal attacks. You both have some self-esteem problems I think.
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 19, 2003 - 11:00pm PT
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Okay brick...the person that posted that little "fact" about me on rc.com didn't seem to want to tell me who told him that. Fact is, the one person I set up a top-rope anchor for at that gathering in Tuolomne swore to me I was the safest climber she had ever climbed with and that she didn't say it. She was the ONLY person I set up a TR anchor for. Either he made it up out of thin air trying to discredit me, or someone else made it up and told him in an effort to make me look bad. Either way, it was an outright lie and, like I said, the person that posted it refused to name his source or to answer my e-mails and PM's in an effort to get to the bottom of it. A guy said it and I have never set up a TR for a guy, just a couple of the girls from rc.com. Kind of proves somebody was making it up, doesn't it?
It also shows what an idiot you are brickhead when you see a post on an internet forum about someone and you just automatically assume it to be true.
I may not be the best climber in the world, but at least I have integrity.
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Gene
Social climber
Two hours away
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Aug 20, 2003 - 02:45am PT
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Brick said "when i read on rc.com....."
Must be true. Brick read it on the Internet!
Hey Jody,
When ya wanna go climbing?
Gene
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Aug 20, 2003 - 03:50am PT
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I'm gonna have a damned hard time believing that Jody's dad never taught him how to set up a proper anchor.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2003 - 11:32am PT
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Going up to free solo the North east buttress of Higher rock one day years ago....when Charles Cole, aka 5.10, and Walt Shipley decided they wanted to come too. Charles had just finnished making his first 5.10 approach shoe like the current version called, "mountain master"? Anyways... we go up there and Charles says he's soloing in these approach shoes. Damm... me and Shipley look at each other in utter disbeleive. I said I'm going first right away, and Walt goes next. Charles said he needs to test these shoes. This was not an on sight FS, but I was blown away!
I could fill a book on this subject, but the the way these idiotic threads go it's not worth anyones time.....Werner
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Jody
Mountain climber
San Luis Obispo County, CA
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Aug 20, 2003 - 11:39am PT
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"I could fill a book on this subject, but the the way these idiotic threads go it's not worth anyones time.....Werner "
That is exactly how I am beginning to feel about these threads. Anytime I try to post some useful information some idiot comes along and starts personal attacks. You're right, it's not worth the effort.
I appreciate your stories and efforts Werner.
gene, let's hook up in Courtright/Wishon sometime. was there a couple of weeks ago and just soloed/bouldered etc. That place is pretty cool.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2003 - 01:14pm PT
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Well Dingus
When I on sight free soloed the Vendeta at the Cookie, I did not know anything about it nor talked to anyone about the beta. I told Mark Chapman that day I'm going to do it and he said he'll be down there at the Cookie later. There was nobody at the Cookie when I got there. Started up the Vendeta and got to this alcove where you have to make these scary moves out of it. Not bad if it's dry. Now there's water seeping out of the cracks and I have no idea what's out there. I try to get out there to see what I'm going for and it seems way to scary. I try to down climb can't do that either. So I wait in the alcove hoping Mark will show up. He doesn't show....no one shows....What's a Werner to do? I down climb about 20 feet to a sh#t sling and get it. I make a knot in it and shove it in the horizontal crack. I put the loop around my right wrist loosely, hoping if I fell it would hold. I go out and back many times before I could see what I'm going for. Finnally, I go for it and the rest is history. If Mark had showed up I would have had him rescue me........Werner
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Aug 20, 2003 - 02:02pm PT
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Dingus, you're just plain wrong on this one.
I know someone who went to Red Rocks for the first time alone and climbed for days. He never said that he free soloed stuff, but there is no other logical assumption that one can make about all of the climbs that he did. (He wouldn't say specifically what they were.) I'm positive that he had not been taking in beta on this area someplace on the sly. He simply knows not to climb up anything that he can't get back down.
On another occasion a different friend (along with Werner) happened to witness the former (who did not know that he was being watched) down climb 3 pitches when the last few feet of face climbing out of the crack that would have led him to the summit seemed to insecure. The route in question was a chimney, and there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that he didn't feel the need to ask for beta on a 3 pitch chimney that he could eyeball from the ground. I doubt that he ever felt the need to talk about it afterwards either since to his mind that would negate the solo aspect of his ropeless solo.
Keeping one's mouth shut about such things is a matter of mastering the ego, and I honestly don't believe that people like Croft (who might crack off as manys solo pitches in a good week as I would total pitches in a season) would be doing it solely for the accolades. It's too lonely of a persuit if that was the only goal. I also am compeled to believe that after a thousand or so hard ropeless pitches that someone like Croft does not need beta or "who's been there first" info to know from the bottom of a 5.11 finger crack whether or not he's capable of doin it...or at least getting back down if he doesn't like it once he's up there. If he asked in advance about every pitch that he did and then reported back on each of them, he'd probably rapidly find himself with no time left to climb.
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