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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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This concludes my multipart Trip Report, but in a non-standard and disjointed format.
Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale is rated UIAA Gr. IV- in the guidebooks, but it's also VERY "abgespeckt." The overall slick and slimy feel of the holds on p.1 makes it feel more like 5.5/5.6. Incidentally this is the climb featured by Fred Beckey in the You Tube video that was circulating here about a week ago.
Anyway, it's a very fun little climb of 3 pitches. Unfortunately for me, the weather was changing rapidly that morning: temperatures falling, clouds moving in, and a very penetrating dampness that raised hell with my sore knee. There were 3 other routes on our "dance card" for the day: Torre Grande, W. Summit, Bergfuehrerweg; Torre Quarta Alta, via Normale; and Torre Inglesi, via Normale. These are now all for "next season."
There are a few pictures on the first lead:
Not much more in the way of photographs; it was getting colder andwe speeded up in order to just get off the climb.
And yes, it really snowed that night!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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it's remarkable how different the cinque torre feel from the stuff on the groeden side of the pass.
i have to confess that i'm not crazy about the cortina side. im sure it was really different before mussolini revamped it for the olympics, but going from the german/ladin valley s to the big italian valley is a huge transition. i always go at least once when im there. but im always happy to get back to selva.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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bump
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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KLK-
The rock in Fanis group is quite a bit different from that found in the Cinque Torri. The Kleiner Falzaregoturm possibly had the best rock I've ever climbed. As you noted, however, the Sella Towers are quite different from, say...Punta Fiames?
I had several routes pointed out by Mauro Bernardi: "Kleiner Lagazuoi, via del Buco," for one. Another peak that really interests me is the Exnerturm, near the Groednerpass, in the Northern Sella Group.
Too bad I got old when I wasn't looking!
Sigh!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Exnerturm, near the Groednerpass, in the Northern Sella Group.
yeah, on my list, too.
really miss that place, and i really like those ladin valleys best. but i still hope to do a route on marmolada suedwand.
if i couldnt climb id go back just for the folks and the hiking and the art and the food and some grauvernatsch.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Bonus points, the Italian government is not shutdown so you can still climb there.
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hb81
climber
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Another peak that really interests me is the Exnerturm, near the Groednerpass, in the Northern Sella Group.
I don't think there are any climbing routes on Torre Exner due to the popular via ferrata "Pisciadu" that ascends it.
(which is absolutely stunning by the way and well worth doing even if ferratas aren't your thing usually)
There is plenty climbing on the walls right next to it, however according to the guidebook I'm looking at right now it's pretty much all 5.10 and harder.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 10:31am PT
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There are 2 routes on the Exnerturm; one on the NE Face, the "Via Kostner" (UIAA Gr.IV+), and a more recently established line by Mauro Bernardi and Lukas Runggaldier, "Zwei Generationen," at UIAA Gr.V. The Bernardi route follows the right margin of the NE Face, sort of on the arête.
References are: 4. Grad Westliche Dolomiten 1, Emiliano Zorzi, p. 86, Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo., and
Klettern in Groeden und Umgebung, Band 2, Mauro Bernardi, p. 102, Athesia.
Granted, neither of these books is widely available in the USA, but routes other than the via ferrata DO exist on the Exnerturm! The Bernardi route was established in 2010, and the older Kostner route was first done in 1930!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Ed; the other "good news," is Mauro Bernardi is also nearing Senior Citizen status.
I'm already making my plans for next season, since the weather seems to be closing things down early this year.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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There's only one thing missing from this three part trip report, Brokedown - pictures of the FOOD!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
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Phyl--
There aren't any food pix, since I ate it ALL!
The 2 different Pensions where I stayed had similar style foods, but the second one had a much nicer salad bar. It was standard "3 courses" in addition to the salad and breads: (1) pasta of some variety, (2) entrée with either potatoes or kartoffelklosse (dumplings), and (3) dessert. I thought I'd lose some weight during the harder climbing sections of the trip, but I came home exactly the same as I left. The weight did seem to be slightly rearranged into the upper back and shoulders, though.
Tirolean cooking is interesting, a cross between Austrian and Italianized Austrian. The Schnitzels were wonderful!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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My paternal grandparents were from that area of Italy, Rodger, only 50 km from the Austrian border. We grew up eating gnocchi and polenta (potato and corn based). The pasta recipes came from my maternal grandparent's side. Too bad my waistline only allows me salad and protein these days!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Phyl-
My maternal grandfather was of Austrian descent, and maternal grandmother German. I grew up eating Sauerbraten, Kartofelpfankuchen, and Rotkohl. That's the problem with MY waistline! BITD my "best" climbing weight was 178 pounds, and here I am many years later struggling to stay right at 200. I suppose I could drop about 10-15 pounds and my "limit" would be back up to around 5.9. Even with the 25 pound pack I'm carrying on my midsection, I had no strength issues on any of the climbs. The Health Club gets a lot of credit for rebuilding some upper body power!
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Brokedownclimber,
Glad you got to check out this nice climb. I did this one and many others in the area last year. I was going rope solo, but enjoyed this climb so much that I did it several times. BTW, the I also did the Torre Alta, which has a distinctly different feeling from the Torre Bassa. I loved climbing in the Dolomites and cannot wait to get back there.
Yes, pictures of food are definitely needed. I spent five days at the Cinque Torri hut below the climbs - the food was to die for!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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^^^^
We had Torre Quarta Alta planned for our next climb, but the weather really was changing fast and getting cold! The sequence we had planned for the day: Torre Quarta bassa, Torre Quarta Alta, Torre Inglesi, and finish off with Torre Grande, West Summit via della Guida. I was pretty bummed, because it snowed that night and the Cinque Torri (as well as the Sella Towers)were impossible for several days. I had to leave for home too soon!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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TT, interesting story! Family lore says that my great-grandfather on that side was an Austrian soldier who defected from the fighting during one of the constant skirmishes between the Austrians and the Italians in that border region. I think that's where my blue eyes came from...
What a trip it would be to organize an Italian-American supertopo trip to the Dolomites at some point! The Tre Cime area is gorgeous and I also loved the area around Madonna di Campiglio. Maybe we could get that Donini guy to come! It's fun to dream...
We just have to keep Rodger from eating too much schnitzel between now and then.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Phyl-
Speaking of the Tre Cime area, my best climb in the Dolomites done in 1964 was the "Demuth Kante" on the Cima Ovest. I finally found a partner and did it w/o a guide. My partner was a young Brit by the name of Lew Brown. We actually made it to the "Ringband" at near dark and managed to get to the hut before they turned out the lights and locked the doors. Not bad, considering we had an "alpine start" at Noon! All climbing was done 100% free, no etriers used, and the crux pitch today is rated VII-. YDS equivalent is 5.10a/b. What facilitated our descent was the 300' perlon rope!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Brokedown: Thanks for posting more photos & stories. It is fun to see more folks posting up their fond memories and/or connections to this area.
I think schnitzel, crisp pommes frites cooked in lard, and the multitude of fine wines: are some of the finer things in Europe.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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Fritz-
I had some marvelous South Tirolian wine that was just a bit lighter in body than a Pinot Noir, and it went very well with the Pasta courses and the Wiener Schnitzel. Had one Schnitzel "Cordon Bleu," complete with prosciutto and emmenthaler. Yum!
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