Billy Westbay on the 2nd of Butterballs

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Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2013 - 01:34pm PT

This was one of my recent scans.

Billy Westbay doing the second ascent of butterballs. Bridwell and Doug Snively were up there also. I don't know if they did it that day or not.
This was in May of 1974.

WBraun

climber

Jul 21, 2013 - 01:42pm PT

Ron Kauk 1974 -- Butterballs 5.11c, Yosemite, first onsight flash of Yosemite’s hardest test piece ....

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 01:55pm PT

It doesn't surprise me that Ron onsighted it so early. I've always said that he has more climbing talent in his little finger than anyone else has in their whole body.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Jul 21, 2013 - 02:19pm PT

I think RK was only 15 y.o. at the time too.

WBraun

climber

Jul 21, 2013 - 02:32pm PT

I think RK was only 15 y.o. at the time too.

No .... older

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jul 21, 2013 - 02:36pm PT

By my math Ron was 17 in '74

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 02:39pm PT

How old is he now? I'm 57 now and I think he's at least 3 years younger than me. I was 18 in May of 1974.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:01pm PT

I was 15 in '74. Ron was (and still is) two years older ± than I. During this time period he climbed a lot with Tony Lynott who was two years older than me at my school. Tony and Ron were in the same class level at high school. Different schools in the Bay Area, but same grade. That is until Ron set out for a life of climb.

So, unless I am useless at math, that makes Ron 17 at the time of his ascent and close to 56 in this day-and-age.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:03pm PT

Another gem Hudon. Thanks

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:16pm PT

Rather humorous that the Wiki lists only ONE notable ascent for Ron. I suppose the other climbs he did were rather insignificant.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jul 21, 2013 - 08:24pm PT

Killer shot, thanks!

I know what a flash is- I think
I know what an onsight is- I think

But wtf is an onsight flash??

WBraun

climber

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:24pm PT

Onsight flash is when you upstage the older generation .... :-)

Bonus points for who belayed Westbay and who belayed Kauk.

If you don't know ....

You weren't born yet :-)

Crump

Social climber

Lakewood, CO

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:26pm PT

Was having dinner with Daniel McClure last Thursday, and he was telling stories about those days, climbing with Billy, Hess, Snively... It blows my mind that those guys rode their bikes from C-Springs to the Valley to climb back in'71?

Truly the hardest of hardmen!

WBraun

climber

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:28pm PT

Yep it's true ^^^

I saw them on their bikes as they entered the Valley .....

Crump

Social climber

Lakewood, CO

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:30pm PT

And of course Daniel said that Donini was already the old man back then...

martygarrison

Trad climber

Washington DC

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:54pm PT

Looks like he is right before that first little slippery rest knob. Mark keep posting em up!!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 10:21pm PT

I have to save something for my show at the Facelift!

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jul 21, 2013 - 10:41pm PT

Onsight flash is when you upstage the older generation .... :-)

Bonus points for who belayed Westbay and who belayed Kauk.

If you don't know ....

You weren't born yet :-)

Thanks for clarifying Werner, you are correct on all counts.

Did butterballs get climbed a lot from 74-80?? When did everyone & their little sister start lapping out on it, just wondering when yosemite 5.11+ went from a superhuman grade to one attainable by mortals?