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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
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This is the only picture I have of it. Not very good. 1972.
Does anyone have better photos?
Ken
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Denise Brown has a good one. You should get it from her, Ken. I think it's a bit blurry though, but might sharpen up in photoshop.
I remember that log. I think Mr. Large does too.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Midwest
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Posted long ago in a Juan thread but here it is again. Not very good of the log itself but all I have. 1976
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Is that the Royal Arches log that Juan said he was gonna replicate, in all it's rotten glory, in fiberglass?
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Happie wins the prize!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Hey note the EBs and Whillan's harness. Thats a legit pic. My first trip to valley and my first Yosem climb was RA. EBs and all. I think it was spring of '76. But as I recall the log was much thinner when I climbed it:)
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Midwest
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Yes it is legit and eb's and whillans. Yosemite was my first out of KC area trip and Snake Dike was my first multi-pitch climb followed the next day by Royal Arches. Log was a lot more polished than I expected.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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I'm surprised there aren't more photos of the Rotten Log. The only one I had seen, prior to these here, is the one in "50 Classic Climbs".
I'm as much to blame as the next guy. When I traversed the Rotten Log in '83 my camera stayed in the pack.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Somebody needs to link to that Juan thread, that was a classic.
"This rod is dust, I'm yarding it"
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Yeah, I remember the log as being more polished in the early 80s.
Ironic that you still have to climb through a tree with a sketchy branch to climb the Arches, (Unless you want to play with the 5.8 awkward variation.
No images of it though, darn. Nice to see these but they don't do it justice.
Peace
Karl
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Two things struck me about The Log.
First I couldn't get over how much the thing vibrated.
Second, it looked like some people had carved their initials into it. That seemed crazy to me. I was trying to get off the damn thing as quickly as possible. It was my first pendulum lead, and as it was a long climb we were in sort of a rush. To imagine folks stopping long enough to carve their names into it blew me away.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Midwest
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The thing I remember most about the pitch was my partner warning me to NOT put any slings on the tree for pro on the way up. Then it was obvious that you didn't want to be connected to the thing if it fell while you were climbing it.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Like Chaz, I (nor my high school climbing buddy Steve) did not take a photo of the log when we did the route in 1973. I didn't like being on that log.
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I didn't climb RA til 2005 (then did it 3x), and always wondered where the rotten log was... that is one of the spicier sections when going ropeless (i.e. the part right before crossing through the tree that's still there). And that tree you have to climb through, getting continual saw action on the rock edge where people yard on the tree, is a mini-disaster waiting to happen. Next generation rotten log.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 12, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
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I posted this on some other thread. Seems like it should go here. Probably taken about 1975. The climber is Mike Foxx, one of my regular clients.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 12, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
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Late 60's the log had a fixed vertical piton in it. Conversation piece yet.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 12, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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hey there chicken skinner... wow, supertopo, ever the teacher... i never knew such a thing was "famously used" in a climb...
*p.s. roger breedlove:
say, great picture of it...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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Roper and Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs has a shot of Ricardo Cassin on it from above. Can't find my copy at the moment.
I also have a shot of Brad Udall buried in the slidebox.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 12, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
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I could'da swore I had my camera along on that one, but I never have found the negs. The camera may have been in the pack at that point anyway.
(circa 72-74)
The exposure, (it was over a bomb bay chasam that isn't adequately represented in the photos),
That it was called "Rotten" decades before on the FA,
And , that it rocked back and forth lateraly as well as flexing,
Well, that probably explains the paupacity of photos.
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