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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 30, 2006 - 10:58am PT
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I'm heading out to Vedauwoo this weekend (yes, from VA) for a day or two. Hoping to get on Friday the 13th. Wanted to see if there were any other recommended routes at or easier than that level (at or below 5.11-) Also want to get on a couple of the classic OW's, although I'd have to aim a fair bit lower than 5.11- for that, as I'm not all that honed on Vedauwoo OW. I'll be bringing gear up to WC #6. Any good ones? Also, one of my partners just tourqued the bejeezus out of her ankle in a bouldering fall, so short approaches are not necessary but certainly are a bonus. Thanks!
Matt
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Jun 30, 2006 - 11:05am PT
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mainstreet, horn's mama. go to ryenolds pooh's corner, climb& punshiment, hung like a horse, penis demension, i'd rather be in philly. i also dig some the climbs out in jurassic park. bring tape
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 30, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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GRIN
3 rolls of tape, a shitload of aluminum and springs, and a new car charger for the laptop to get me from SLC to wide country
off to lose some skin
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 30, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
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I'd second Hardman's list, though Reynold's Hill is probably too long an approach on a bad ankle.
Mainstreet is a great 10a OW
right next to it are Bell Crack, .10+
and Boardwalk .11b are about a three minute approach.
The Nautilus has a lot of Bang for the buck, approach wise.
Progressive,9+ hands
Flying Butress .10b everything
GhostDance .11 kinghell flare
Friday the Thirteenth .11 corner, fingers, undercling, hands.
The tubes .10-11+ wide/fist
the cupcake boulder is a great 10a handcrack perfect warmup to the area. Boulder or TR
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 30, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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My favorites:
Flying Butress: Steep, interesting 5.10 bombay flare with good hands.
A lot of folks like Curry's Diagonal: moderate 5.10, less burly, more technical.
Beefeater: good 5.10 thin hands.
Max Factor: excellent 5.11 fingers.
Boardwalk: 11- thin hands.
Hung like a horse: (11- sort of burly)
Disclaimer: my names and ratings might be a tad screwed up, maybe Jaybro will sort that out...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 30, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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Yes Jay:
Ghost Dance, I recall a bit of -thin pro, spool it up and go!
-To get up that one!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 30, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
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one more ST tangent related to this thread.
while perusing "Fat Crack Country" last night, i noticed the lack of stars. time for a locker-esque venture through the rocks. don't need no stinkin' star to tell me that the flared, just too wide, fissure that goes uninterupted for 80 feet is good.
i did make a back up list of semi-remembered classics last night though, just in case.
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
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Thanks all, this is great. Can't wait to go suffer on the wide stuff!
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Jun 30, 2006 - 01:31pm PT
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you'll love vedauwoo. place is great, and go have a beer at the buckhorn in laramie for me.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 30, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
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Flying Buttress is awesome but a huge sandbag at 10a. Hesitation Blues, just to the right of Friday the 13 is a must-do as is Curries Diagonal. When you rap/lower Curries, you can TR or bold lead 11 Cent Moon a killer face/thin corner. If you like face climbing, Spider God is primo and bold. To the left of Spider is a huge wall that forms the right side of Bell buttress. Don't remember the name of the route ther but there a killer .11+/12- on that wall.
Mal
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 30, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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Yeah, for a semi-wild moderate, Flying Butress can't be beat, originally rate 10+, 10a Would be a bit sanbaggy. But what do I know.
Report back, afterwards.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Jun 30, 2006 - 03:47pm PT
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I heard that Lucille was downgraded to 5.10 - might be a good one :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 30, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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gotta be old and fat enough for that one, though.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 30, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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my first time there last year, we passed your article around the car on the way too, and from. 5 dirtbags gained a bit of respect for your tenacity, and a new understanding of the word "project" by the end of the trip.
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Jun 30, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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Hesitation Blues 15 feet right of Friday 13th is good. Heard the 3rd pitch is easier then the 2nd pitch with good beta. This place can get Crowded. right around the cornor is Left Torpedo tube. The Flying Butt is a must do. No other route like it anywhere. Same goes for Currey's Diagonal. I don't think any route feels like 5.11- at Vedawoo. It's all ++++++ climbing. Tape up and have fun. Horn's mother is just plain Hard. Don't get psyched on it unless you have a good amount of time. Just talked to my friend who sent Silver Salute 2nd try and couldn't send the start of Horns mother and he's a respectable crack climber.
I want to try Mainstreet it looks really good.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 30, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
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Thanks Trash. I hear a young gymanst from Junction, Matt Lisenby, onsited Lucille, last season.
Burns-My latent dyslexia read 4th of July where you wrote Friday the 13th. But keep that one in mind as well, fairly stought, but the crux is flaring thinhands, kinda, there is some mandatory OW, though, to keep you honest. Easy to set up on TR as well-did I say that?
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Ive known Matt L and his wife for years. He's a monster. Totally reticent...but a monster. I would be more surprised to hear he DIDNT onsight it than he did.
He has a sick route called Industrial Strength in CO Nat Monument if anyone is psyched. sandbagged 5.12 OW.
Cheers, Vedauwoo ROCKS!!!!!!! Northern lights or OCtober lights, some name like that is awesome OW too.
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2006 - 03:01pm PT
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I'm back, alive, although with a little less skin. Vedauwoo was awesome, of course. Thanks again for all the beta. Unfortunately, my capacity to plan and the weather conspired to limit my time and climbing a bit. Two days turned to about 3/4 of a day, as the plans of climbing partners aren't within my control and some thunderheads chased us to shorter stuff (bouldering, yikes!) for a little while. I'm, sadly, back at work, so a full TR is yet to come. I also haven't even looked at my pictures yet, so I may find out that I had the lens cap on the whole time. But, a TR will come soon, and as a hint to how it went, it will be titled:
A Whuppin' in Wyomin'
Stay Tuned.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey, That's good livin!
Glad to know you made the foray.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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How did that 3/4 day go?
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