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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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For hardware and gear research there is nothing like this kind of source material. A good catalog leaves me with more questions than answers and this is a GOOD CATALOG! Thanks to Mimi for giving me the green light to add this to the archive. If we have it, everybody interested shares in the fun!
This should be fun walk down Memory Lane for some of the stalwarts here on the ST. Holubar had only been in business for a couple of years doing mail order as mentioned on page 2.
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
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May 30, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Love the "mountaineers hat"!
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John Morton
climber
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May 30, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Never realized Holubar made forged tool steel pitons in those days.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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As I gather Roy and Alice bought some property that had a mine on it and a fellow named Bob Bruning had worked there as a blacksmith and needed something to do.Bob stamped his work HOLUBAR in simple block letters.
The Holubars had such good connections in Europe as is clear in these early catalogs and they had Stubai stamp some of their pitons with a fancy Holubar and export them to the US.
Some hardware panels from the Oakdale Climbers Festival 2012.
The pitons above the Gerry label are Sporthaus Schuster pitons and a hammer from Munich, a mainstay import source before Roy made his arrangements. Below and left of the few Gerry items that I was able to secure, is a Norton Smithe angle with two stainless steel ring angle pitons made and sold commercially by Dave Black.
Pitons above the midline are Holubar stamped Stubai soft iron imports and those below are Bob's tool steel beauties. An alloy steel Holubar standard angle from Ken Boche's collection sits at the bottom.
Marty Karabin has posted some of the Holubar in his collection on the Holubar Piton History thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1399367&msg=2096517#msg2096517
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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Thanks Steve, cool stuff.
Just ordered some crampons, best deal I've seen in awhile.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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May 30, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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$4.00 dollars for a hammer?
damn Boulder yuppies never change.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 31, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 31, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Look how Chouinard borrowed from the Marwa crampons...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 31, 2013 - 01:26am PT
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I know a route called four dollar hammer.
Lederhosen deal!!!!
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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May 31, 2013 - 07:39am PT
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The last photo reminds me of the Weld_it style rap posture
^^^ RADNESS
Seriously appreciating all the Great Stuff you contribute Mr. Grossman.
THANK YO!
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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May 31, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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Glad you won that SG....I was going to bid but was up on a ladder painting when the auction ended. Couldn't get signal F'n cussed my brains out - would have paid more than what it ended at. Thank you for sharing here it's almost as good as having it in my collection. LOL!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 31, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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My first rope was a 3/8" by 120 ft goldline. Used it many years. But well before I got that, my Dad had one of the Columbia white nylon climbing ropes from Holubar, as advertised in the catalog above. The cool thing about this ancient rope is that it still exists in my Dad's garage, where he has been using it for half a century to hoist odds and ends to the ceiling.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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May 31, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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^I'll buy him a new rope for hoisting if he wants to trade!
The Marwa #4 carabiner is very nice. I have an unused one if someone wants to trade for?? I do need the locking version of it or an early "D" like shown in the picture.
This catalog just changed some dates on the gear I have. I was thinking 1960's but now I see them as older. Weird but good!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 31, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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The first item pictured in that catalog is one of the first pieces of climbing equipment I ever had -- A Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe. It was given to me by the friend who first introduced me to climbing, and I've still got it. Beautiful tool.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 31, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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I can see now that Steve is really gonna start applying the heat to sell
him my biner. Of course it only dates to '70 or so.
But he can't have my Holubar Denali bag which I also got in '70!
The thing is still the shizz.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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Consider it sold already! Just figure out what you want in return whether it's money, gear or goats!
You can't have my Trailwise Chevron bag either. Twenty five below and I still had to vent the sucker and get my leg out! LOL
I got outbid on a mid-fifties Trailwise catalog recently that pushed their timeline back much farther than I thought.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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May 31, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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I have both Eckenstein crampons shown in this catalog (10 pt and 12 pt). Both have hemp straps rivited to them....sound like circa 1950's to you or older?
My experience is that hemp straps were 1940s and earlier with leather coming onboard in 1950's.
What say you experts?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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I think that leather came first and switched to fabric straps after WW II as they were lighter and much easier to repair on a climb. Most fabric strap that I have seen are cotton. How do you arrive at hemp?
Interesting too that the French carabiner (presumably Pierre Allain) has the classic Chouinard modified D configuration in an aluminium carabiner.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool view back in time. Thanks for sharing.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Yes, cool stuff although I'm surprised they offered bolting equipment as early as '54.
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