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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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No people, no beta, just you and a buch of rocks!
Road opened early this year. This place would be a popular destination if there wasn't infinite world class climbing within 100 miles in every direction.
Go git sum!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 30, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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This place looks terrible. Will stay in Yosemite.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 30, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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According to the SEKI website, Hwy. 180 to Cedar Grove is "day use only," whatever that means, until May 22.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Ya the campgrounds and services are closed until later in May, but they don't close the gate or anything. You probably won't get bothered, but you can always camp in a turnout in the forest just outside the park border near Boyden Cave anyway.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 30, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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How WAS that Nowhere to Run?
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micronut
Trad climber
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Apr 30, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Hey Daniel,
You open Friday? Adam's out and I'm lookin fer a pardner. I've never been to Morro.....wanna show me that Buttress?
Scott
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 30, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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nice! may have to make it happen next weekend.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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I thought what we did of Nowhere to Run was GREAT! I even had fun on the approach pitch. There may have been a little bit of sandbaggery (or I suck at crack climbing) on the first pitches so we were intimidated and too beat up to try the 11a 5th pitch, but it looks sweet. And I'll definitely be back for it and the 5.8 splitter we could see on the 6th pitch! So ya, great climb that I'll do again this summer when I get better at crack. You found a gem there.
Scott: I wish, but with the baby due 17 days from Friday I'll be staying around until he falls out. If you can talk Steph into it then I'm in :) Stay tuned, we'll get out this summer for sure!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Apr 30, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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(Waves hand) shhhhh this isn't the valley you're looking for....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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Jesus, NORTH TO THE MFING BONE IS SO ON THE MF TICK LIST!!!!
Hot dayum, that is the good right there in KC.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 30, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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sandbaggery
LOL! I wouldn't think so, however some of those pitches require some mastery of multiple sizes of crack in a rope length. If ya aren't ready to change-up on the fly, it can be tiring on the mind (at least). The crux pitch starts a bit overhanging, a fisty move to 1.25 to hands to fingers. If I recall, the rest is in the hand section. Otherwise, it's a pumper. Let me know if you think the crux is the 1.25 or turning the finger crack after the hands section...
There are no other continuous crack routes on the nose of that buttress. It'd be difficult to get off route, IMO.
 ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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Won't argue with that assessment, I need to work on crack more. Still, if p3 is what the 5.8 and 5.9 feels like, the crux will be a beast! I'll find the breakdown on the crux pitch and post up, leading that clean will be one of my summer goals.
The crack system is obvious from the road and pretty easy to follow on route, but the start might be awkward for some to find down there in the trees. Here's what the start looks like after a bit of scrambling, for anyone interested. Just an "approach pitch," but I liked it.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Really, there's climbing there?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Anybody here ever do: "Black Satin Slips" ??????
an old Herb route.
Kris and I did part of it.... not many bolts and the suckers are all bent over from ice fall. We were slinging the bolts with wires and after a few pitches we got tired of doing that.
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Not really that much. Most of it is bouldering
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.
That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)
Off the bottom of the page it goes!
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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no way! keep it quiet frpm the younguns'! King's Canyon - and all the peaks, towers and domes around the rim and in the high backcountry - are all filled with giant, radioactive, man-eating spiders that shoot lasers out of their assh*oles: STAY. AWAY.
(what happens if those boulderinger-types discover THE boulder on Bubb's Creek - ? Better go send and chalk up a shark farting out a lightning bolt on that sucker this w/e..)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Mucci -
North To The Bone....check.
My Own Private Idaho....check.
Invisible Nebulae, Grand Sentinel.....check.
All your other wall projects......<insert sound of screeching tires>
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Move along now...Nothing to see here.
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