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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 11, 2013 - 02:35am PT
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Super Slacker Highway 5.10a (FA Dan McDevitt, Gabriel Mange, Bryan Law)
Pat & Jack Pinnacle,
Yosemite Valley CA
March 10, 2013
PeterC
Gary Carpenter
Ed Hartouni
There is some information out there on this climb, lots of people seem to have done it... Dan Rampe has some photos of it (do a Google search)...
...but there is no topo easily connected with STForum (that I can find quickly) and only about 5 references to it.
If you want a topo contact mctwisted, he is the route author. Hopefully we'll all get to look at it when the new comprehensive guide comes out.
PeterC suggested this climb today and Gary and I agreed, but we had to use our best stealth and sneak to get a topo... as I had left my copy at home. We succeeded..
here's the crew
we would go up Nurdle as Andrew and Breea, who we met at the parking spot, were also going up on this climb! and for most of the day there were only 3 parties on the cliff, some came later... the other party was an FA going up nearby... (you know who you are).
You enter the climb on the second pitch of Knob Job, you'll see obvious bolts up and off to the left, on a spicier than it looks pitch. From here you pull a 5.10a move with two bolts to a big ledge and walk back to the wall... I belayed PeterC and Gary up and then climbed the longest pitch (?) of the climb up a 5.9 finger crack with an interesting entry, to some face, to some steep knobs to a hanging belay.
PeterC transitioning out of the crack onto the face. Gary just climbed the crack past the face and traversed over...
The next pitch is a face/knob pitch with a great start and finish.
The character of the climb is basically stretching to reach a knob/hold and committing to it while your feet cut loose and you scuffed up.
This pitch ends in an awesome "squeeze box" sort of offwidthy but with lots of pro in the fingery crack in the back, and only about 6 feet, nothing to be put off by.
Gary coming up the face, the "squeeze box" is to the right behind the flake my left foot is on.
This is a steep climb, lots of fun!
My pitch was the next one, PeterC and I were swapping leads, but I was pretty much done for the day and the pitch, though short, looked stout... PeterC took the lead into the notch. The move is labeled "5.10a" but it is height dependent (I think it might be harder, but I was tired and not thinking well) and requires the ability to pull on small holds to commit to a knob, and then figure the rest out...
The notch is a wonderful place... here is our shadow in the forest, we're standing on the top chock stone that is casting a shadow...
This was it for me... I was quite satisfied. PeterC definitely wanted to stand on a spire, up he went between the two
to eventually tag Pat
some topos don't make sense because it is difficult to depict both facing walls in a topo. Note that our ropes are tied on the anchor, which can be reached by standing on that flake next to Gary. One can traverse over from PeterC's position two images above around Jack to the corner and climb the 5.9 finger crack to a bolted chimney or go straight up from the anchors on some good crimps and gunning for the crack... we didn't have the gas left to pull that off.
You can rap the route with one 70m rope.
Short pitches of interesting climbing with great belay ledges and wonderful positions... warm weather (though the wind blew cold today).
Quite a nice climb, thanks mctwisted for all the work that went into it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 11, 2013 - 08:33am PT
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But there aren't any pictures of Ed. I'm knott sure he was
there. . .
hee hee hee. . .
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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Mar 11, 2013 - 09:02am PT
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"...my left foot," he's not!
Thanks for the pictorial of quintessential Yosemite cragging.
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bob
climber
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Mar 11, 2013 - 10:59am PT
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Hey Ed thanks for posting those pics. I just did that route on the 9th. We didn't do the last pitch because I only wore a t-shirt. Foolish.
Great, fast moving low commitment route with some of the biggest jugs on steep rock I've climbed around these parts.
Thanks again for the pics!
Bob J
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 11, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Another one for the list! Thnx
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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Nice....another notch for your gun!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Looks like a great day, Ed. Thanks!
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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Hey Ed, nice TR. Good to see you guys getting out!
Steve
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Cool..
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Did superslacker highway a couple of weeks ago but got off route. Instead of making the traverse after the 5.9 fingers, we went straight up. Oops.
There's always next time. McTwisted, thanks for the topo
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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Looks cool, thank you for posting! Seems like a better way to Pat than that chimney with a rotten bolt.
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Matt's
climber
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Mar 11, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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did this route a while back, it was ok, not a classic. Would not repeat. Well-bolted (overbolted?) by yosemite standards.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 11, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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That is a very nice climbing report there, Ed. Excellent pictures ... Boy it did look like an excellent day....
Susan
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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Sweet! My partner and I did this one in Feb 2012. A modern classic, we thought, that will get crowds once the topo is published. I'll try to post up a TR to compliment yours.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Mar 11, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Thanks ED!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 11, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Mar 11, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Yes Ed was there
Pointing the way for Peter
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Mar 12, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Nice- loved this route and worthy of many a repeat. I have a topo btw.....if interested
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Mar 12, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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Also thought this was a cool route... nice report! How did you guys find the mantle move? That one gave me a lot of grief, I told myself that being tall makes it harder.. haha! The steep juggy climbing below that was the highlight for us..
I'm confused - what are the two options for the last pitch? I guess you are supposed to climb that pinnacle on the left from the belay ledge??
Another thanks to mctwisted!
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 12, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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fun route...were the toy soldiers still there? GI Joes?
props to Dan et al...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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