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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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The Auburn Quarry recently reopened to climbing thanks to http://norcalcrags.org/. Brings great fall, winter and spring climbing to Sacramento area.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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nice
such persistence from the Crags folks so that we can all touch a little limestone.
thanks!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 23, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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It will be fun to check that place out sometime soon!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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????
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Hey Mike!
If you know who is doing the slacklines, please send me their info so I can contact them immediately. Unfortunately Auburn was closed in the first place because of slacklining / rope jumping. The SRA will not look upon this new twist with favor at all. This was one of the things that came up repeatedly during discussions with the SRA.
I would encourage anyone thinking about continuing to do this in the Quarry to stop immediately or risk jeopardizing access for everyone. No this is not hyperbole, this is a complete disregard of everything myself and many others have worked on for the last 14 years.
Yes, I said 14 YEARS :(
Right now climbers are on a type of probation with the SRA as we work through the initial period of time where the Quarry is open and they watch how we act as a user group. What, we lasted less than 3 months before this crap starts popping up again???
WTF is wrong with people?
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Aaron et al,
I'll be up there this Friday. If they are there I'll be sure to get their contact info.
Btw, Mike...had a great time today!
Steve Montesanto
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Thanks Steve.
For more information if people are interested, when the 4 bolt pattern went in on the Scale Wall and then on the Memorial Wall the SRA was concerned that CRAGS did it. It was clear they do not want this type of activity in the quarry.
I am not against slack lining if those interested in doing so work it out with the SRA. To do it despite their wishes, after they just reopened the quarry for climbing is head shaking.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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I would hope that the people doing the highlining just aren't aware of the history of the quarry. If you didn't know one the main reasons why climbing was shut down in the first place (a very unfortunate rope jumping death) then you probably wouldn't see a reason not to highline there.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I guess this is a good thread to ask about this, but do any of you Tahoe or central valley guys remember / know about a small limestone cliff located at or near Redding? I went there about 20 years ago with a friend who was a local to the area. He called it "Shreding in Redding".
I remember it being a quite good wall of limestone about 75 - 100 feet high, that overhung the whole way. I think there were about 7 or so routes on it. It was on private land and we had to walk past a sign that said "closed / no trespassing" (not proud of that part). Guy I was with said people went there all the time and it was "no problem".
It wasn't in any guidebook, and almost no one else had ever heard of it.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Oh wow, yeah that's it.
I guess it's open to access again? I remember it being quite good, and we climbed everything there in one day, except for the 12b (didn't try) and failed to redpoint one 12a (too tired).
Also, are you A.R.? If so, I remember you from the days of rec.climbing - we even had some correspondence by snail mail about 15 years back. I'd been in an accident and broke my back, laid me up for a year. You sent me some videos and other such things to keep my spirits up. IIRC, one of them was of you flashing White Rasta and then celebrating vigorously after. It was tres cool.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Anything in the reasonable/moderate range there?
All I see is 11 and up, except for the 10d. I might get up that with a snug toprope....HA!
Pudgy weak old timer needs to get back on horse, belayer required.....
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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i talked to bill price about this place and it sounds fun, he said he is putting up a new route, so i am going to check it out next month, i am excited to see what old billy goat price is got shaken, keep the pix coming, happy climbing mike a.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks Roughster, I'm on it!!!
Low ten is my favorite number...heh heh...
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NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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bjj there is also some other route info on RC that hasn't been copied over to MP about the shredding, worth looking that up as well.
Stoked to see that the Auburn quarry is back open.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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bjj: Yes it is "me" from the old rec.climbing days. Ahh, a time long ago where I was a lot more hot headed and full of piss and vinegar. I am glad I at least didn't offend everyone on the Usenet, just a select few :P
Good to hear you're recovered and back in action! I have heard that there has been a bit of new routing at the Shredding, so if you get out there, let me know how it goes!
As for White Rasta, that was more of elation from not dying than true celebration :) I had no idea the there was a mantle at the top and thought I was in the $$ once I stuck the rail. I was quite stressed pawing at the sloping dish thinking about the boulder and cactus 20 feet below me, hehe.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Really nice to see this place resurrected. Thanks for all the effort Rough and persistance in finally getting the place re opened and the ton of effort puttting up all the routes since I was there last. Have kept an eye on your progress. Looking forward to getting down there again and checking out all the new routes. Always looked like loads of sport climbing potential for anyone willing to put in a bunch of cleaning/trundling effort and buying a pile of bolts. Last time I checked it out was mid-late 90s and I know there has been a ton of new routes since then. When I was a young boy in the late 60s/early seventies I have vivid memories of seeing some of those cliffs many times from the Forrest Hill side of the canyon, seemed enormous to me then. Then in high school in the late 70s/early 80s we spent a bunch of time (rafting, etc.) in the river far below the quarry. Never really thought about climbing in a quarry until I was talked into checking it out in the mid 90s to get out of the winter cold in Tahoe.
Going to be a great climbing resource for those living in the greater Sacramento region and for those trying to get out of the Tahoe snow on warmer winter days. Will have to start making some trips down there as soon as I heal up from the ribs I broke on Friday, (Lead fall) :( Can't wait to get down there soon, before it gets hot.
As for the question about "The Shredding/Burney Limestone": All the new stuff will be in the new "Locals Guide to: Northeast California" which Paul and I are putting the, very, final editing touches to and hopefully will be off to the printers soon. I think there are about 40-50 routes at The Shredding/Burney Limestone that Paul has documented.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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Aaron - I was wondering if the slack lining would be an issue. Some climbers had minor problems with rock fall when the slack line guys set up last Friday. I should be out there this Friday and will try to dig up info or talk with them if they're out there. Cheers, M
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