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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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My bags are packed, flights in the morning! 10 days in Red Rocks with Bmacd!
SUPER STOKED!!!!
The ticklist already includes:
Cat In The Hat
Tunnel Vision
Ginger Cracks
Crimson Crystalis
Birdland
Any other suggestions? Great places to eat? Things that must be seen? Sandbaggery?? Let me have it!! :)
(I know you would anyways...) ;)
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aliebling
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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If cat in the hat is crazy (likely), go back around the corner and start it with cookie monster instead (which is a great climb at the grade).
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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I would say skip Birdland, not much going for it except its easy and a classic 20 foot finger splitter on the last pitch.
Do Olive Oil instead. Awesome climb, all trad, including belays, and its a walk off. Having a 70 meter rope sure helps on Olive Oil but not neccessary.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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Group Therapy, next to Tunnel Vision, is amazing.
for shorter days... Black Magic, the Great Red Book, Diet Delight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Cool! Thanks Allie, Studly and Gal! We will have 70's which will be nice.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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A couple of years ago we wandered up to Birdland to find one party on it and 5 -- count them, FIVE -- parties waiting. So we moved about thirty feet left and jumped on [name forgotten] which is the same grade and maybe even better quality and had it to ourselves.
Did the same thing a couple of days later at Crimson Chrysalis. Hiked in, found a lineup, so moved over to Ginger Cracks and had that to ourselves. I haven't climbed CC, but Mari has and said Ginger Cracks was better.
Moral of the story? Forget the tick list. Any of the multi-star super-popular routes will likely have a lineup. But that's okay, because it means fewer people on everything else. And everything else is just as good -- often better.
Have fun, and get the place warmed up for us -- we'll be about three weeks behind you.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Here's something to get you stoked
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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For multipitch climbs in the sub-5.10 range (judging from your list that looks like what you're going for) a couple of my favorites are the Black Dagger (5.8) and Community Pillar (5.8), which are also less crowded than most of the routes on your list. Crimson Chrysalis is great climbing but also mega popular and all the bolted anchors are at bad stances, so hanging around waiting on the party-o-3 in front of you to sort out their clusterf*#k is especially unpleasant.
Bring your headlamps and call in for a late exit.
For food I sort of dig the L&L Hawaiian BBQ, behind the Burger King just on the other side of Charleston from the RR Casino. The best pizza is at the food court in Costco. You're supposed to show your membership card at the door but you can try just walking on in if you don't have one. If you have a bad weather day and want to get loaded before noon, the Champagne Brunch (Sat and Sun) at the Golden Nugget is $20 for stellar food and all you can drink booze. For a dinner buffet, the Freemont has a "steak night" on Wed and Sat, with all you can eat cooked-to-order NY cut steaks for $14.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
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I recommend tunnel vision(just to say you did it),
And dark shadows, lotta balls, johnny vegas, dream of wild turkeys
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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i second Byran on Black Dagger it's in a great location, longish walk keeps the crowds away, the climbing is great and the descent is awesome, down the gunsight. Ragged Edges, only 2 pitches but hella fun! And yep Dark Shadows to the top.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Ragged edges is cool-and no approach (basically).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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Wow! Thanks for the responses!
What grades are you looking to climb?
Great question wml. I'm thinking mostly 5.10 or below multi pitch, but I would like to get on some mid 5.10 single or two pitch routes.
Maybe if Bruce is feeling good we'll get on something a bit harder.
I called my mom today, because it was her birthday. She said "you're leaving Whistler? In winter?" "You must really like this climbing thing". I told her "winter sucks right now!" I still can't really believe it myself.
It can be hard to leave.
I'm on the road already, staying at bmacd's to cut down the drive in the morning.
He showed me his old gear stash
Bmacd
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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Woooooooooo hooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!
I miss Jer too. ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 11, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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Is that preparation H? See you both down there, it's warmed up again.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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2nd skipping Birdland. Not sure where all the stars come from. Olive Oil = 10x better. Jubliant Song is a good option for something a tad more adventurous.
Oh man I'm so jealous. LOVE that place.
Edit: man I didn't think snow got that brown in Whistler! WTF??
Edit 2: Ghost that kind of looks like Valentine's Day in Moderate Mecca. A short but excellent corner. Was an early gear lead for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Berg, it hasn't been snowing very much since the new year! Makes it alot easier to go away for sure.
Harry yup! Hahahaha no it's epoxy. ;)
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 11, 2013 - 02:14am PT
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Skip Birdland.
Geronimo is a lot of fun with real sweet holds.
Jubilant Song is totally sweet.
Community Pillar is a go.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:32am PT
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Frogland is awesome....so is Epinephrine ( prob my favorite).... Red rock is SWEEEEET!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:10am PT
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im thinking of my coherts
out upon the road,
enroute upon a binge of sends,
as i strap in for a monday
morning grind of
feeding the circling sharks.
enjoy your trip, gents.
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