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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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A bit about me I'm 34 and stand 6'1 and weigh about 205(yeah i know i'm big).
Anyhow i've been climbing in the gym and outside and the hardest climb i have done outside is a 10b.
I've been working some of the 11's in the gym and have tried some at devils lake in wisconsin but seem to always come up short.
Any advice as far as training or words of motivation from people who climb 11 an up. I try to get inside twice a week and outside at least once.
I know not to chase grades but an 11a is my goal for next year.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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I could make the typical ST smart ass comment, but all kidding aside; if you weigh 205, a typical Devils Lake face 5.11 face climb would be tough.
I only climbed there once, 40 years ago, but as anyone knows, the lighter you are, the better you will climb on hard face. It's pretty tough hanging all that weight on your finger tips and toes.
A nice fat hand-jam is not as weight dependent in my opinion.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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I'm working on losing the weight believe me. What area's do you consider soft Locker?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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All kidding aside, old school 5.11's (Yosemite, Suicide, Gunks, Josh) are pretty stout no matter what else is going on. Train like a Demon, get to where you can do two or three -- preferable more -- one-arm pull-ups, climb outside all the time, get your fingers strong. That's what worked for me. I think that a steady diet of hard bouldering is also a major benefit if you want to climb hard routes.
And at 205 definately lose weight, although really it's not so much raw weight data but your bodyfat index. If you're 205 but have the muscle definition of a skinned greyhound, that's probably a plus.
My two cents. You might want to run your query over at rocklimbing.com; they discuss this issue a LOT.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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In my 3 1/2 years of climbing experience, I do see more skinnier people throwing down the 11+ routes. I'm 6' and 197lbs. I'm not a big fan of face climbing, but I do love crack climbing. The hardest face climbing I've done was 10a and I wasn't too thrilled. The hardest crack I've done was Catchy 10d to Catchy Corner 11a. I did better on the 11a fingers/lieback that I did on the thin hands 10d. I feel way more secure in crack that I do anything else.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Yup it is!
A couple of weekends ago I was at The New and watched this super jacked guy chug a Redbull and get on Legacy (a super classic 11a). He whipped and whipped and eventually bailed. While he was being lowered, he threw this tantrum about how the rating on this climb was bullshit because he can climb 5.13 in the gym.
I guess it is funny how some people feel entitled to certain numbers...(Not saying that you are...OP)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Go bouldering lots so you can work on movement & linking difficult moves. Then when you get up to that crux on that 5.11 you will be able to figure it out quicker & feel stronger on the crappy holds.
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Prod
Trad climber
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There is always aid climbing.
Prod.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've only done 11's by accident, never intentionally, and only back when I was well under 200
Don't sweat the numbers.
It's supposed to be fun.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Don't listen to Locker. That is the typical response by an old person who can't shred the gnar anymore.
I love the numbers game!
How else can my friends on Facebook know what a bad ass I am!!!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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How hard 5.11s are depends on how much you are climbing.
I used to send, when I weighed 166. Now I am 235, so the 5.11s are elusive except for slab.
If you can onsight 5.10 at Devil's Lake you should be able to crank 5.11 somewhere, but not Carderock.
If you are plateaued. Here is my advice.
If you know how to climb pretty well, already, work on your cardio. (A group of four climbers were going on a trip, the one who climbed the least beforehand did the PX-90 DVD. His friends gave him sh#t, but he performed the best.) I also climbed better personally, especially on steep ground, when I processed the O2 better.
Do a fingerboard routine, gradually working up to it so you don't get injured. (I have a friend who was in medical school and didn't have time to climb at all, but was disciplined with his Metolius hang board. We went out climbing and he could still do 5.11c)
Climb a lot at easier grades for endurance, technique and rhythm.
Boulder. I can't go too high, or I go splat, but it is fun and you learn a lot about physics and movement. Helps your onsight ability in the long run.
Diet, a work in progress for me, SteveA knows of which he speaks. On his advice I'm going to check out the Zone diet. Just got a couple of books on the subject.
Keep it fun!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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I asked some old people ...they were ..like...35...gnar is that stuff between yer toes after a long day of climbing without socks.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Hey Old Man!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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What's the fuk is the "GNAR" again???...
typical response from an old person who can't remember how to shred the gnar anymore.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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not me in the pic, just a young man learning gnar shredding.
Back to the OP - as far as sport/gym 5.11 is also where technique becomes a lot more important. A lot harder to muscle through.
Practice that footwork!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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What the fuk did he say???...
typical response from an old person who has lost the ability to hear the gnar being shredded.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Shred the Gnar
To go big, never stop or give up; accept the reality that anything is possible, and everything can be accomplished if you set your mind to it..
Here you go ol' Timer
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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You guys are adorable. BWHa-Ha-Ha-Ha!!!!!6!!!@
5.11 is pretty hard. In the World. In Da'Gym, 5.11 is just an easy lap or a warm up.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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So when I was first learning to try to shred the gnar I flailed on that thin crack next to church bowl (I think that was where it was) it was like 10C . Then this guy I think his name was Minnesota Dave totally cruises it . He was totally on his feet the whole way no pump. It's all in the feet (when your outside).
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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BTW I would never put a picture of myself on ST. I don't want to be in an interview someday having to explain why I am in a compromising position with Tom Jones, a blow up doll and a rubber chicken.
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