Angel Wings new route...the scoop!

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alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:29pm PT

greetings! I saw the thread "hey peter croft" where some folks were curious about some more scoop about the new route we completed this summer on angel wings....well here it is! The route is called Valkyrie, 16 pitches all free at 5.12. the 5.12 is a short wild bouldery (i.e. Peter's lead) move past a bolt, and the rest of the route is stacks of quality 5.10 with a few pitches of excellent 5.11 and one pitch of 5.8 slab on pitch one. Every anchor at the first 13 stations are set with 2 3/8" (hand drilled) bolts. The route is steep and the setting is spectacular with some memorable belay stances high on the wall. The story of finally completing the route is a fun one spanning many humorous attempts over the years and it felt SO good to pull over the top at last with such a fun and solid crew of friends...clearly an effort of blood, sweat and years! To the best of my knowledge to route loosely follows the original general area of the Steck route for the first half, then angles off into uncharted territory on the brilliant sweeping upper buttress. The details I suspect some of you are after will follow on this thread...have fun and enjoy! Cheers! Dave Nettle

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:30pm PT

apogee

climber

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:31pm PT

Sounds stellar. Congrats!

Pics! Pics! Pics!
(Edit: thanks!)

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:32pm PT

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT

Gagner

climber

Boulder

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT

That looks way awesome Dave - nice job to you guys. Hope to see you soon.

Paul

climber

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT

Right on, Dave!

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:35pm PT

Soooo sweet. Thx for the efforts, climbing and posting.

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:37pm PT

lucho

Trad climber

California

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:39pm PT

Awesome! Looks like beautiful, high quality stone! Thanks for putting up so many rad High Sierra routes! Still have yet to visit the Angel Wings.

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:39pm PT

alpinist

Trad climber

tahoe city

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:50pm PT

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:54pm PT

That looks like a great route! I was back there in 1977 and I always wanted to get back there. Did your team use any packhorses or mules to get all your gear back there? I know some parties have done this but I recall hearing last year that horse packers were no longer operating out of Sequoia NP.

Thanks again for the topos & information.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Nov 14, 2012 - 03:56pm PT

Congratulations!! Post any other photos you have, these are the threads many people look forward to reading on ST (especially during these cold months)!
Bravo!

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Nov 14, 2012 - 04:01pm PT

Nice to see a new route that utilizes the natural features like ledges and doesn't just run it out for 60 or 70m between bolted anchors.

matty

Trad climber

under the sea

Nov 14, 2012 - 04:03pm PT

WOW looks sweet, thanks for all the info DAVE!!!

The Alpine

climber

Nov 14, 2012 - 04:17pm PT

Oh man! Thanks a ton for posting this stuff Dave!

The countdown to a repeat begins...

Levy: I know Cottonwood pack station was operational this past summer.