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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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This spot, the top of the first pitch of Native Son (photo by Tom Evans) is a totally climber built anchor, a rarity on walls these days.
It was all cams in absolutely bombproof rock! I had probably nine cams tied up in three sets of three. Cheyne jugged off the bottom three, I hauled off the middle three and the top three backed up the whole affair. None of the cams were too small, mostly medium and a few big ones. It was a bit of an awkward belay, being all hanging close to the corner but it was sure fun to have built it and used it (not to mention it's airy position).
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Here a mostly climber built anchor on Lost In America. There were three good 3/8" bolts to the right but they were a bit close together. We were bivying here and I like to have the bags hanging just past the end of the ledge. I placed these cams and moved them up and down till they equalized the load onto each other.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Very classy, Mr. Hudon, very classy.
Edit: How do you like the Dragons?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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The Totem cams? Dang! When you really needed something to stick, they were the go-to cam!
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Not too fond of the biner to biner.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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Biner to biner? What is going to happen?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Not too fond of the biner to biner.
Do tell. I've been wanting to hear the argument against it. Most people when pressed will say, "It's just... you know... bad"
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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In this case, the argument could be that there is a 3 point load on one of the carabiners. That being said, I would have NO ISSUE with that anchor.
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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I wouldn't have any problem trusting that anchor either, but aside from a possible three way load mentioned up thread, if shifting/twisting is a factor, they can pretty easily unclip. That said, I clipped many a bolt with a biner-on-biner arrangement before QDs became popular an never had them unclip.
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Googlymoogly
climber
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In this case, the argument could be that there is a 3 point load on one of the carabiners. Since the direction of pull is really only 2 directions I wouldn't say it counts as tri-loaded. So as you said, not a big deal.
I always thought part of the idea was that metal to metal could get cross-loaded easier however this does seem to be one of those rules every climber has heard and that classes tend to teach but it never is really supported with a reason.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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That quickdraw chain linking all three pieces could be cleaned up with a sling equalizing them instead.
Just sayin'.
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MisterE
Social climber
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This guy is killing the walls in great style, and you want to pick apart his anchor?
Get real, people.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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That quickdraw chain linking all three pieces could be cleaned up with a sling.
Yes, but would it be increase your safety by a significant factor or would your improvement basically be a non issue?
Is there anyone who would refuse to sleep hanging from this anchor deeming it "unsafe"?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Not with the three 3/8" bolts nearby!
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Ljohnson
Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
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A wall anchor built from 3 cams and 2 QD's, for hauling only, backed up to two bolts by the rope clove hitched to biners.
Simple
Efficient
Bomber
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Hell, if I had three or four more cams as good as those further up the crack and no bolts, I'd be happy as a clam and sleep like a baby!
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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I would sleep on that all night long!
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WBraun
climber
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Way homo!
Ya should have yarded out the 3 bolts and belayed on the cams only .....
:-)
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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I've hung from less! I'd trust it....but secretly clip into one of those bolts with my daisy while I sleep!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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This guy is killing the walls in great style, and you want to pick apart his anchor?
He's the one flaunting his anchor and asking for input . . . whatever Mr. Eeeee.
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