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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
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I figured at least a few of you out there are facinated by those few and far between roof climbs. If you have any pics, please post up!
Owl Roof A3, 165' totally Horizontal!
And a view looking straight up at owl roof from below (the red rope is the tag line)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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COOL!
MORE!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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bovine? Is that thar one of dem Missouri roofs? I dun hurd tell of dat...
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wyJames
Mountain climber
Dripping Spring, Tx
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May 23, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
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D-n-I
Do you happen to have a picture of Champagne Jam? I learned to climb at Sandrock when I was young and that route was like an inspiration to us.
Cheers, James
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 08:54pm PT
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
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I do not have a pic of CJ, but I have a friend who did try very hard to climb it, LOL. I think they finally got it, but that sandrock shyte is rough stuff on the hands. Last time I was there there was a fixed something or other in the crack, further out than I will ever get, haha.
There is also a 12 hand crack roof, VERY high up, Suicide Direct I believe the name is, in the BSF that some guys in NC freed recently, it is brutal looking, like Arno's Don Juan only much longer.
I might be able to snag a pic of a short but wide roof crack in a hidden secret place in NC called CHossy MOuntain, that I took a fall on before figuring out, but it is only a ten or so, and goes free very well.
Wish I had a pic of the short roof on Supergumbiewannabe, no crack, short roof (full horizontal extension will get you from wall to edge) it is also a cool move to make, with such a nice finger lock crossing over at your waist as you lock your foot in a hole at the back wall, and reach out around the lip.
Damn I need pics of these.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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May 23, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
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This roof is 3 pitches long!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 09:48pm PT
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I liked that one when you (or somone) posted it before. What (and where) is the story?
Dirt- sounds cool, waiting for photos. .12 handcrack roofs are about as cool as it gets.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Jaybro, turning that rounded lip looks like it might be really hard and insecure, is it?
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JP
Trad climber
Quebec
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May 23, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
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Wow!!! where is that Owl Roof???
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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May 23, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
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Champagne Jam is a bizzatch. Tape or die. That bitch be pull of pebbles. Like boxing a bag of broken glass. Tried it one day, got about to the lip on the first go and said "screw this POS". Never went back.
I got some pics from back in the day on a Rob-Rob route called Raiders of the Lost Arch at Sunset. Spectacular feature. Climb up a short approach pitch to the money...about 18' of horizontal roof splitting this wacky arch. You can barely see it from the trail when the leaves are out. Kind of a weird arch, hard to explain but it barely has clearance in the back to make it a true arch.
Lots of killer roofage in the deep south. Only got to taste a samplin in the mid 90s. Crazy hot in that part of the country though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 10:32pm PT
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Yup, Dirt, seems like the lip is always the crux. except on the monkey roof, that one saves the fun for later.
The second photo, is of a route called Squat 11d/12a, in an area near vedauwoo known as the roof Ranch. There's another climb there that's about the same size roof, though thinner and harder but rated easier. I wish I had a photo of that one.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 11:47pm PT
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Roofs were never my thing, or cracks or face or slab or aid! But I have been caught on a couple. Arkansas Reality
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
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This aint much of a roof but here is bovine himself I think on the second ascent of the Beast.(I think thats the Beast, bovine? First its your memory then what?)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 24, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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Feast of Fools, Gunks.
Beatle Brow Bulge, Gunks.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 24, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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HEy Rgold, how is that arrete to the right of the big roof?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 08:51am PT
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Nice sequence, where are the ignorable cliffs?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 24, 2006 - 09:09am PT
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Anyone ever "study up" in the Stephen King Library?
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