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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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Many famous and classic climbs have included the use of shoulder stands as direct aid to gain protection or higher ground.
While not currently in vogue, we employed it's use this weekend to establish a first bolt at a correct placement where a stance would have made the clip a poor fall.
What's your experience with shoulder stands?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jul 16, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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From the recent Glen Dawson thread
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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nice!
going to see about getting a pic of ours from this weekend...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Jul 16, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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Good one! Thought this was a way to utilize yoga poses for climbing (not as far fetched as one might think!).
But technically, that last photo is know as a supported head stand (Salamba Sirsasana) instead of supported shoulder stand (Salamba Sarvangasana). :-)
Eric
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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Jul 16, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Clint, thanks. sort of forgot.
My other solution is this:
The Czech's had the shoulder stand mastered since the early 1900's
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jul 16, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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An over-the-shoulder boulder-holder!
Nice, Bra!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 16, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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Olton's Shoulder in the Mt. Rushmore area was so named because Wiessner and crew used such moves to summit the formation in the 30's on the shoulders of Percy Olton.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 16, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Fritz (Wiessner) came from Dresden where shoulder stands were kosher. (A peculiar usage I do not apologize for.) He used them as a way to progress, and also to back down from a dicey situation. We used to give him a lot of static about it, saying it was aid climbing. Fritz was a true purist and this bothered him. His position was that a pair of climbers constituted "one attacking unit" and whatever possibly unmentionable things they did to or with each other (I am now departing from his manner of expression for the sake of a cheap smirk) were not any kind of external aid.
Fritz also used a shoulder on the first ascent in 1936 of the Totem Pole (Needles Highway). Harvey Carter did it free at 5.8 in 1954 after placing a bolt, which subsequent parties have been happy to clip.
Whose ascent was "purer?"
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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When do 'combined tactics' become unsporting?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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an ethical debate!!! nice!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 16, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
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They work best with crampons....that way you are unlikely to slip off.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 16, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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Dammit, Jim, you beat me to it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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aerated shoulders?
not sure that's gunna go over big with the kiddies these days
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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Rich I am guessing he did the shoulder stand on the Totem Pole at the top of the first wide crack that sort of ends on a pillar that you then make a hard move into the other crack. That would be a scary place to stand on someones shoulders crampons or not.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
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go-B
climber
2 Timothy 1:9-10 Monergism
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Could Alex & Hans do this on the Nose and beat their record?
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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^^^^^^^
Wouldn't want to put chalky hands in that crack...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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I like the idea of combined tactics.
Shoulder stands are pretty unstable too.
Not A0!
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