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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Tuolumne tripping
June 2&3 2012
Ed Hartouni
ablegabel
Eric's been eyeing various pinnacles along the road down from Tioga Pass for some time. This weekend we headed up to do one of them.
for us old and out-of-shape this was a 2 hour walk up to the pinnacle on the left side, the tallest and proudest looking one.
The view looking across the canyon is of Mt. Dana, the Dana Plateau and the Third Pillar of Dana
we had little information on this pinnacle. We were out for a first ascent, as usual... we picked a line to the left of some prominent wide cracks, which traversed over to a gully between from which we ascended an arete to the summit. 3 pitches, 40m length, 5.8 difficulty. Quite fun. I didn't get many climbing pictures, here's ablegabel on one of the belay ledges, probably the first.
The summit was quite a nice place, though a part of a sharp ridge with plenty of blocks. There was a cairn on top under which an old can which had contained "French Fried Salted Mixed Nuts" was located
now containing an summit register.
This was in bad shape, though it was from 1930. The only legible page:
informed us that Claude Fiddler and Rick Cashner had done the FA of the wide cracks in 1987. Rick went up the next year with Roy McClenahan (tarbuster). Great that we picked another line...
From the top it appeared a long way down to our pullout
walking off the peak to the north, then rapping twice to the talas got us on our way.
This weekend was another "full moon" weekend, so in keeping with my plan to shoot as many as I can, I had prepared for a shoot from Tioga pass. The summer haze to the east prevented a shot of the moon on the horizon, but I managed some nice images before the moon headed into the clouds. Here's a digital, I also shot a roll of black & white which I'll develop, scan and post later.
On the way back I stopped off at the TPR to say hi to Lynne.
On Sunday it was my turn to lead a "Creampuff" climb, we chose Harlequin Route 5.7 which traverses Harlequin dome, and only has a written description. It's a great route that crosses many classic routes.
We ran into Mike Bolte and his son at the parking lot before they took off for South Crack.
Here's a picture, though without notation so as not to spoil the adventure:
the route starts at the lower left and ascends diagonally up to the right edge of the "Hoodwink" roof where it meets the last pitch of The Sting which is "5.6".
What you can't see in that image is the ramp, here is a better view
which is paralleling the roof.
Super fun, but not a "gimme" climb, you have to earn it.
Had a great time with ablegabel and Oy!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nice as usual Ed . . . keep getting after it!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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very cool-- that pinnacle looks killer from the highway. i've never been up there.
you have a clear shot of the peanut can?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Nice!
I love the "boulder's eye view" of the highway shooting gallery!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Worthy outing. Propers sent.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Enjoyed you TR. Good going! What a nice find at the top. I hope you two left a note too.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So retro it's fresh! Sounds like a great weekend, and you brought back a fine TR for the rest of us.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Yes - thanks! Looking forward to the next.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 09:37am PT
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thanks all for the comments...
the "boulder eye" view of the highway was taken off the summit... a bit blocky but everything seemed to stay put during our visit.
a closeup of the can
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Watch out Ed! If that can is over 50 years old removing it from a National Park could get you a life sentence. Nice TR!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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the can is back in it's place... we were apparently the 5th or 6th party to summit, there was one entry in 1954, and the original entry, then the two above... no pencil in the can or with us so we didn't sign in (though the paper wouldn't have taken another signing).
one of the older registers I've come across...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dang that looks like fun. Makes me want to move back out west.
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Zander
climber
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Looks like good times.
z
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Hideous approach up to that pinnacle, Ed. I've looked up there a hundred times and said to myself, "No way!" But I bet you can find some even worse approaches up the north side of Lee Vining Canyon down near the intersection where you leave the Tioga Road to get to Aspen Campground. Look up the talus piles there gives a new meaning to the word, "Despair"! Gives you a brief glimpse into the minds of the German POWs at Stalingrad as they were marched off to Siberia (most never to return). But if you look up there with binos, I'm sure you'll find some virgin rock!
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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mmmm, this looks delicious!
To think, at this time last year, I couldn't even begin to dream of looking at adventures like this..
TFPU!
Cheers
LS
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Another good day in the hills. Bonus cardio training!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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As always, thanks for sharing, Ed.
Hope you have a clear evening for the full moon tonight!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Good times Ed, great post.
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